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lt230s

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Before I put the mower deck(with new spindles & belt) back on the 110 to start mowing for the season, I figured I'd change the drive belts since I had them and they looked pretty worn. Got them changed and before I put fender deck & other things on, I figured I would start it to see how it drives, in case anything needed adjusting. I put a jumper in the gear shift neutral switch and turn the key.
RRRRRR......RRRRRR....RRRRRRR....
Check the plug, got spark. Clean it up & put back in, turn the key.....
RRRR.....RRRRR....RRRRR.....:banghead3 :banghead3 .
It's getting gas, even tried starting fluid...nothing.

Does neutral switch have to be grounded thru frame? I just had jumper between the 2 contacts.

I'll check points tonight to make sure they are OK. It ran fine right up until Tim parked in the garage to start changing belts.
It is definitely something stupid, but it was getting late and I was in no mood, meanwhile the grass is growing and Tim is itching to get it cut.

Maybe the grass gremlins snuck in and sabotaged the mower.:ROF
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
And it can bee even more confusing when there are 4 of those little ole wires poking out of some connectors.:ROF and :goodl:
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Maybar,
I'm not good with electrical stuff, thankfully mine only had 2 wires. And the PTO is manually activated, although it has to be disengaged to start ( another safety switch).
:thanku: I forgot about that, will have to check tonight. Maybe we knocked connection off somehow.

BTW, how bad was it changing those drive belts? I have to do the 112, and I have put it off, becouse it loks like a REAL PITA
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Paul,
A little patience it's not that bad. If you have a lift to be able to work from underneath, it's a big help. Even with the fender deck off, we put it on car ramps and Tim still had to crawl underneath to coax the belts on & off pulleys near the belt guides.
The clutch & mower mule drive have to come off because you need to remove the belt guard by the engine to slip the variator belt off.
The back pulley has to be removed to get drive belt on/off. There wasn't enough room between pully & axle housing to just pop the belt off.
Thank God, for Tim, my 11 year old, since he has little hands and crawled underneath amid falling dirt and dust.
 
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#6 ·
You have spark so you bypassed the safety.

Changing belts on the 200 series. Have the variator as far forward as it will go before shutting the tractor off.

Remove the rear belt
push the clutch pedal down and lock it. or pull the variator back with out it running. Yes I know JD says not to do that. This loosens the front belt.

Remove the front belt
install new front belt
install the new rear belt
Start the tractor
Release the clutch with the tranny in neutral , this will even out the belts

Done
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Update on the 110.
Pulled the head off and no stuck valves, cleaned up and valves are seated OK. Got new gasket, put head back on. Checked points including cleaning and made sure set at 0.20. Cranked it and got good spark. Gas is still flowing.
RRRRR..... RRRRRRR.....:banghead3
Pull plug out to see if wet and darn heli-coil came out with spark plug.:eek:mg: That's the first one that I ever seen come out. I dropped it off this AM with local guy to see if he could put new one in or if head is shot.
Will keep you updated.
 
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#8 ·
Also on removing the secondary drive belt (from variator to the transaxle). Loosen all 3 bolts in the pulley, remove 2 and let the pulley pivot on the one and then you should be able to change the belts.
 
#9 ·
lt230s - Pull plug out to see if wet and darn heli-coil came out with spark plug.

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It has spark at the plug and fuel and still no start, and now the heli-coil comes out. I suppose there is a very, very, very remote possibility with the heli-coil being loose the spark plug had no ground to complete the hi-tension circuit and not firing when installed. This is a real interesting belt change out to say the least.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Maybar said:
lt230s - Pull plug out to see if wet and darn heli-coil came out with spark plug.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
It has spark at the plug and fuel and still no start, and now the heli-coil comes out. I suppose there is a very, very, very remote possibility with the heli-coil being loose the spark plug had no ground to complete the hi-tension circuit and not firing when installed. This is a real interesting belt change out to say the least.
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Maybar,
Tell me about it. I was thinking the same thing about not completing circuit with loose heli-coil. I am looking for a decent used head, but may have to spring the $100 for new.:Stop:
The wife has been busting my chops about this. "This was such a good deal and here it sits in pieces." Oh well, it's part of life.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Update on the non-starting issue......
Ended up getting new head for the kohler. Mean while pulled the flywheel and cleaned magneto. It wasn't to bad, blew off the dust & Chris sanded down the surfaces to clean mild surface rust. Alignment on mag/coil was fine.
TOrqued the head down, put flywheel back on & checked spark. Seemed a bit better than before. Oh yeah, I drained the gas in it, cause it did not quite smell right. Put a little fresh gas in & cranked....& cranked....& cranked. Nothing.:banghead3:banghead3:banghead3
Had to go get gas in car later & Autozone was nearby so I figured stop & get new plug. For $1.50 Champion J-8 figured I had nothing to lose. Put new plug & f&*&^% fired right up.:thThumbsU
Now to put everything back together ..........
and hear it from the wife about spending so much to fix the problem & it ended up being a $1.50 item.:lalala:
Oh well, the boys learned a little more about what make a engine tick and we have a few good laughs.:trink40:
 
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#14 ·
lt230s said:
Paul,
A little patience it's not that bad. If you have a lift to be able to work from underneath, it's a big help. Even with the fender deck off, we put it on car ramps and Tim still had to crawl underneath to coax the belts on & off pulleys near the belt guides.
The clutch & mower mule drive have to come off because you need to remove the belt guard by the engine to slip the variator belt off.
The back pulley has to be removed to get drive belt on/off. There wasn't enough room between pully & axle housing to just pop the belt off.
Thank God, for Tim, my 11 year old, since he has little hands and crawled underneath amid falling dirt and dust.
Click to expand...

You know, I was expecting the worst, but changing mine was cake!!!. I did have to remove the input pulley on the trans, but after that that belt came right off, the front was a little harder, but not as bad. Remove the PTO gard, and bracket. Take off the PTO brake, and PTO pulley. Being I have Hydro lift, I had to pull the belf for that, and then just remove the three bolts holding the front belt guide on. Pushed the brake on, and pulled off the belt. Took about a half hour all together. Still have to lube, and adjust it though.
 
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Ingersoll444
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