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Massey_Dave

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings,

My name is David, and I have recently acquired a MF 1655 through an auction. The poor fellow died, and I am sure he would have liked to take the tractor with him. His kids didn't value it and put it on the auction block, and I bought it and a snow blower attachment (for $1200). It runs good, but has a few minor issues that need addressing. 1. Broken throttle cable (broke after I bought it grrr) 2. Leaky gas tank at the bottom by the fuel valve (Just needs a new grommet.) 3. The three point hitch is not working (it seems the ram is stuck out at first glance) 4. no parking brake, and transmission speed selector seems to make no difference if it is at the fastest or the slowest setting. I suspect it is just out of adjustment.

The issue I am looking for help on is the 3pt (I know almost nothing about hydraulics), I am not sure were to start with this one. I checked the fluid (i think at the right place under the seat at the very rear of the tractor), and it is clean and at the appropriate level, and the lever seems to be connected and operating the valve appropriately. So I am looking for advise on where to start. My initial response is to hit it with a hammer and see if it is just stuck (always seems to be my first response.) :) But I thought it would be best to listen to opinions before I start grabbing the baby sledge. I suspect this tractor was the old mans baby, He used it, but he also took care of it, every filter looked brand new, and all of the fluids are clean. The ram has no rust on it that I can see. That is all the information I can think might be relevant. Ask if you need to know anything else, and I will try to get it for you. Any help would be appreciated. :thanku:

If you know where to find any of the parts mentioned, I could use some help finding them. (throttle cable, grommet for the fuel valve, and a new gas cap)

Image
 
Nice find! :thThumbsU and welcome to the forum! :Welcome1: Hopefully some of our hydraulic experts will chime in soon. :)
 
:MTF_wel2: , Massey_Dave!!

You got a deal on that rig! :fing32:

Throttle and choke cables.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/mower/mowerthrottle/mowerthrottleu.html

The gas tank grommet can be purched at a JD dealer or at an ATV dealer.

The parking brake may be missing the brake pads and possibly the caliper. I make new pads out of old truck front pads.

If there is no difference in the top speed using the "speed selector", it may be disconnected. That linkage is also part and parcel with the brake linkage. Mine doesn't leave the top position unless I have to take the center console off. I use the bucket, cutting edge down, for a parking brake.

Application of brute force is not recommended unless you know what damage you will inflict on a poor, unsuspecting, hydraulics system and its components.

Since the tractor moves under its own power, the hydraulic sytem is working. The 3PH control lever is the right hand stick at the front of the right fender. Pull back to lift, push forward to lower. Look down through the slot for the control to make sure that the spool is moving when the lever is moved. The fender/seat pan is going to have to be removed to do anything for servicing that part of the system.

With the engine off, pull back in the lever with one hand and lift the 3PH with the other. If the cylinder retracts freely, the piston seals may be done and the cylinder will have to come out. It's a judgement call depending on how it feels while being collapsed, what you hear as it's being collapsed, and how well it stays collapsed when the valve is centered. I can do it, I just can't explain it at the moment.

If it won't collapse, either the piston or rod is jammed, or the valve spool is broken. The spool is the more likely candidate.

If the mid lift cylinder is still present, try the left hand lever and check the results. that cylinder is underneath, just behind the engine.

For the loader, I see 2 potential issues that you may want to deal with.

1. There should be a guard in front of the loader pump.

2. If the diagonal braces to the front of the tractor have a bend in them, consider replacing them with something a little more substantial. Ditto for the parallel links for the self levelling function.

That is not a light tractor. It has the capability to bend those pipes. Ask me how I know, although I never had that type of diagonal bracing.

What are your plans for it?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the detailed response!

The tractor will be used for pulling implements (tiller, disc, and cultivator) and light dirt moving. I have a 6 wheeler (Polaris big boss) that doubles as a dump truck when I am moving dirt around. Mostly the garden is where this tractor will spend its days, but I have a canal bank (runs thru my back yard) that needs to be re-built, so it will be moving some lava rock, and dirt to rebuild the bank. My brother has a Cub Cadet 129 with a loader that we use for all kinds of little projects, that is why I bought this one, I had no idea it was such a desirable tractor, until I started reading up on it here.

I will go home and try the things you suggested, and report back. (if the spool is what I think it is (the rod that connects into the handle on one end and disappears into the ??valve body?? on the other end), it seems to be working. It has the same tension as the other (mid-lift) handle) I will check the mid lift when I get home as well. (just barely found out it had that :)

I hope the cylinder does not have to come out, I looked in there and it looks awfully tight, as does everything on this tractor. Would you suggest repairing the linkage for the speed selector? or just adjust it to the most used speed and leave it. (it seems quite slow now) :) I played with it for a half an hour and think I could live without the brake but the speed selector might be nice to have.
 
The speed selector is, in function, a speed restrictor. Full speed (4.5 mph in low, 9 mph in high) is only available with the selector in the highest position. I could cheerfully do without the contraption altogether. The only real value that I can think of is, if you let young children drive the tractor, you can put a severe limit on how fast it can go. That in no way reduces the power that it can exert for pushing at the limited speed.

My 1655 has been a dedicated loader since 1984. It has several implements for the loader, including a 54"wide, 22" deep and tall bucket, a 40" bucket, a 12" wide trenching bucket for trenches up to 34" deep, a "T" bar frame for extra high lifts, and a set of light forks. It has done a lot of work for me. You want real good tires on the front. It will do a bit more than "light dirt"work.

With the seat pan off, the cylinder is easily accessible. Remove the center console, including the knob on the speed control, the 2 bolts at the front edge for each of the mud guards, the 2 bolts at the back of the seat rails, the knobs on all the sticks on the right fender, and lift the pan off. The seat has to slide back to get the center console out, and ahead to get at the bols for the seat rails. Then the cylinder is fully exposed and easily removed.

If the spool (you have it correct) feels and looks fine, my next question is, how many hours on the tractor?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
GOOD NEWS!:thThumbsU

I fixed the throttle cable, and everything else (hydraulic) started working. I am not sure why that would be, but I am not looking the gift horse in the mouth. so I just have to get the fuel tank sorted out(parts should be here in a few days), and this baby is ready to start working :)

I looked over the loader, and I think you are right, The next major project needs to be to build a bumper to protect the loader pump and build better supports for the angle braces, they are both bend slightly, and the one in the picture has been welded/repaired at least once. I will just have to be careful until I can get time to do that (hopefully this winter)

Next minor project is to fix the speed selector/restrictor (and the fuel tank, and lights), and I will work on it this week to see if I can figure it out. I downloaded all the books and will follow the instructions to see if I can re-adjust the selector, If not I may just re-adjust it so it will go a bit faster and leave it at that, it sounds like it has little use and my time would be spent better working on the snow blower attachment that came with the tractor. :thThumbsU

Hours on the tractor is unknown, the paint on the underside of the tractor is in very good shape, and everything looks like it has very little wear that I can see (but these tractors seem to age like glaciers). I also found a 3PT tiller for sale that will fit this beautifully and I plan on purchasing it this afternoon, if all goes well. Then I have an 1/2 acre garden that needs a good tilling before the snow flies.
 
Sure looks like a good buy to me, the loader would bring that around here.
I recently acquired an 1855, but due to some worn out parts, have yet to use it or have the money to get it fixed.
I never figured out that speed adjustment thingy either, I'll just leave it in high position and go for it.
I got some manuals/ parts list from manualslib.com, but they are listed under Snapper 1855.
 
GOOD NEWS!:thThumbsU

I fixed the throttle cable, and everything else (hydraulic) started working. I am not sure why that would be, but I am not looking the gift horse in the mouth. so I just have to get the fuel tank sorted out(parts should be here in a few days), and this baby is ready to start working :)

I looked over the loader, and I think you are right, The next major project needs to be to build a bumper to protect the loader pump and build better supports for the angle braces, they are both bend slightly, and the one in the picture has been welded/repaired at least once. I will just have to be careful until I can get time to do that (hopefully this winter)

Hours on the tractor is unknown, the paint on the underside of the tractor is in very good shape, and everything looks like it has very little wear that I can see (but these tractors seem to age like glaciers).
The charge pump is small, about 3 gpm @3600 rpm, and the relief is set at about 700 psi. At idle, it hasn't got the power to lift much more than the hitch itself. The cylinder is working on the wrong end of about a 5:1 lever. The pressure is there, but you need some flow to make enough horsepower to do the job, otherwise the pressure goes way up and the flow goes over the relief and you get nuttin'.

Mmm. That loader is very similar to mine. I believe the cylinders are the same, which means that it has the same lift capability at a given pressure. If there is any give in the post mounts, the load down each of those braces could be as much as 1.5 times the payload in the bucket. I know what loads I've had in my bucket, and those pre-bent pipes will fail at that level. Use square tube to make new ones. Depending on how much nerve you have, at least 2x2 x 0.125 wall.

This is mine.

Image


The crate that I'm leaning on has a 1250 lb lathe inside. Guess how it got into the garage.

Note the 1.25" square tube parallel links for the self levelling system. They don't bend like the pipe did.
 
That's a speed limiting lever there in the console, so when mowing for example and you back up you can go right back to the same forward speed you had been running. All I use it for is tthe parking brake. I do believe the paint is a little worse on yours than mine (which I hope to correct before long). The bad part of these tractors is no power steering which can be corrected useing some JD parts.
 
The charge pump is small, about 3 gpm @3600 rpm, and the relief is set at about 700 psi. At idle, it hasn't got the power to lift much more than the hitch itself. The cylinder is working on the wrong end of about a 5:1 lever. The pressure is there, but you need some flow to make enough horsepower to do the job, otherwise the pressure goes way up and the flow goes over the relief and you get nuttin'.

Mmm. That loader is very similar to mine. I believe the cylinders are the same, which means that it has the same lift capability at a given pressure. If there is any give in the post mounts, the load down each of those braces could be as much as 1.5 times the payload in the bucket. I know what loads I've had in my bucket, and those pre-bent pipes will fail at that level. Use square tube to make new ones. Depending on how much nerve you have, at least 2x2 x 0.125 wall.

This is mine.

Image


The crate that I'm leaning on has a 1250 lb lathe inside. Guess how it got into the garage.

Note the 1.25" square tube parallel links for the self levelling system. They don't bend like the pipe did.
Ok,..
Iam guessin you put it in there with ur massey? No,. now, just wait a minnite,..You lifted up each corner,..And placed a small block there..
After u completed all 4 corners, and sum oak runners, .You stratckally placed a 1/2 dozen pieces if pipe under the cribin.
Then u mathadically pushed that lathe on rollers in that barn!..
Other than cheating,..u aint gona tell us u picked it up with the massey and moved it in there are u?

He he hee...
kubotakid USA
 
Do you see the lip at the entrance to the garage? The reason the crate isn't further in is because the front tires were so flat that they wouldn't climb that 1.5" lip with the crate hanging from the bucket. Not enough rear end ballast for traction! I only have about 650 lb back there.
 
Sorry, no, just the primary 54" bucket and the 12" trenching bucket. I also have an original 40" bucket and a light set of forks that you can see pics of posted by other owners in the Sear/Craftsman forum, and a homemade "T"- bar that allows me to make lifts to over 9' high. That's a great attachment for lifting a 3' x 12' work station for siding and the first courses of roofing, or installing beams. Maybe I can dig it out next spring for some pics. It hasn't been used for about 6 years and is sorta buried.
 
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