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FrankBinVA

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm working on my neighbors Troy Built lawn tractor, it has a kohler 23hp v twin on it. It had a problem starting, when you turn the key it would just click. Try a few more times and it would crank and start. I checked the battery and it holds a charge just fine, my charger has a diognostic function and the battery tested fine. Checked the charging system and it's just over 14 volts. I have a little more than 12 volts coming from the switch to the solenoid, same voltage at the solenoid from the battery. When it just clicked, I checked for voltage on the output terminal on the solenoid, going to the starter, and nothing. So I replaced the solenoid with a new one. Now it's doing the same thing. I removed the starter and cleaned the brushes and the armeture while I was waiting for the solenoid to arrive. I checked all the connections, everything is clean.
What am I missing?
 
Use a different battery, either jump from a car battery but disconect the tractor battery and try to start it. We don't want the tractor battey in the circuit to pull the car battery down. Or try a new tractor battery. Sounds like a bad battery. You may think the battery is good because of the 14 volts but all indications suggest a bad battery. What is the voltage while trying to start the tractor under load? Did you check the ground to frame wire, at the frame? Keep us informed
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I'll try both! Thanks!

I did have the engine bolts out to lift the engine. I had to replace the drive belt and the guard around the pulley is part of the frame. Since the pulley was stuck on the shaft, I just lifted the engine. I may add a ground wire too.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Well, I checked the engine mounting bolts and they're still tight. I added a ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to the tractor frame. I tried the battery in my lawn tractor. I found the battery negative to frame ground and cleaned it up, it needed it. None of these things helped. I tried to start it after each step and still just a click from the solenoid and after a few tries it would start up.
I then had a moment of clarity and while it was just clicking, I tapped the starter with a hammer, it started right up. I did this a few more times and each time I tapped the starter while holding the key to start, it started. I guess I should have just replaced the starter to begin with....

Anyone know of a good, cheap source for Kohler starters?

Thanks for your help.
 
Frank--My guess is that this will solve your problem. I'm going to presume that the safety switches are getting somewhat corroded with time and not allowing a full voltage to the solenoid.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=129440


Good luck, and by the way, this is a cheap fix, too, as the relays can be had for less than $5 at many places.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
It worked !!!!

I wired it all up and the starter sounds strong and engages every time!
I wired the ground to the frame, and got the 12v supply from the battery cable lug on the solenoid.

Just for kicks I put it back the way it was and it just clicked. Originally I had 6.5 volts to the solenoid with the key turned to start, with the wire removed I had 12 with the key to start.
With the relay wired in, it's 12.5 volts either way!

Thanks for the tip!

:thanku:
 
Hey, Congratulations, Frank! Good job. Isn't that the sweetest sound when you turn the key and that starter spins?

Now you better get the tractor back to the neighbor so he can get that lawn mowed. Don't want the neighborhood looking too shaggy there!
 
Congratulations on getting the tractor to start however you didn't fix the original problem. You still have some type of problem with a switch and/or relay contacts that are corroded, a voltage drop that may haunt you in the future. Please be aware of this situation. Since the tractor wasn't built with this relay bypass it should work like it did when it was new.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Congratulations on getting the tractor to start however you didn't fix the original problem. You still have some type of problem with a switch and/or relay contacts that are corroded, a voltage drop that may haunt you in the future. Please be aware of this situation. Since the tractor wasn't built with this relay bypass it should work like it did when it was new.

I know I didn't fix the original problem, Troy Built should have done that when they built it!
In all seriousness, I'll check the safety switches and ignition switch later. I just wanted it done and to not have to buy a starter!

:thanku:
 
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