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UPDATE:

Not sure why I could not find these the other day, but for the G this looks like it will be enough and be much simpler. There is a 60 watt Par36 tractor lamp available.

http://www.bulbs.com/espec.aspx?ID=10701

This will bolt right into the G, only requiring a wiring upgrade to a relay to be safe. The Kohler twin charging system is rated at 15 amps, two of these will draw a little less than 10 amps.

If I cannot fine these locally today, I will oder a few.

Sheldon
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Gravely did make a headlamp kit for the 2 wheel tractors. It was known as kit 45880 or 785307

Image
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I suppose the ultimate in lighting is HID lamps similar to those provided by one of the sponsors/advertisers here. My son has been using HID lighting in his car for years now and with the right reflector, the lighting is most impressive. The road is lit up but no light directed elsewhere. The only way I can describe it is when looking at the road at night, it is as if a black curtain covers the top 1/3rd of the windshield. It is downright amazing just how directive the lights can be.
 
Well even though they are about to be obsolete, I have ordered some 60w Par36 lamps for the G. The existing wiring should be heavy enough, the only question is the switch. A relay at the dash may be a safe bet.

I will see how much of a difference they make and then consider a clear lens.

Sheldon
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I would put a clear lens on just in case the lamps are too hot and melt the original.
 
Jeff, I considered the various par36 halogen lamps, but rejected them on tha basis of beam patterns, spot, flood, etc, in favor of the traditional "automotive" spread of the tractor bulb.

The 60w tractor bulbs came to today and I installed them in the stock locations with all the stock wiring. They are dramaticly brighter, and hotter, but all seems well electrically.

They draw a little less than 10 amps as expected, the original 35w lamps draw nearly 6 amps. I suspect the switch is rated for 10 amps or more. The charging system had no trouble keeping up with them. After having them on for several minutes without the engine running, I started the engine. The amp meter went to 20 amps with the lights on but quickly recharged the battery and was at zero in about three minutes.

So the 15 amp rating of the charging system is very conservative, it easily put out 20 amps at 3550 RPM.

I think the only issue at this point is the front lens. It will take a longer test to determine if the 60w lamps get too hot for it. I do have some lexan sheet and plan to make a clear lens as well to test. I will test the whole installation next time I mow to see how everthing does with more extended on times, but I did have it on long enough today to feel comfortable with the wiring and the switch.

There is no rating labled on the switch, but many similar switches are rated bwtween 10-15 amps, and like everything else, there is a good chance Gravely over built this as well.

Another thought I had was to eliminate the front lens all together, and possibly build a metal plate to replace it, moving the par lamps forward and mounting them in holes in that new plate - much like an automotive application. The plate could be painted white and would look similar to the original lens.

This might also be a workable idea for the 800/8000 tractors - make a plate to replace the lens and mount two par36 lamps in it.

If the lamps prove too hot for any lens, I think this is the direction I will go.

Sheldon
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
When I lived up in Chicago, I put a marker light on the back of the 816. It was mounted to the engine cover. It made a big difference in others seeing the tractor when out plowing snow.
 
Jeff, I considered the various par36 halogen lamps, but rejected them on tha basis of beam patterns, spot, flood, etc, in favor of the traditional "automotive" spread of the tractor bulb.

Sheldon
Sheldon,
Take a look at this link for PAR36 LED "bulbs" --
http://www.grote.com/Trilliant36/

These are NOT inexpensive but they may be worth a look -- LEDs will create much less heat and require much less power than any of the traditional options. I'm going to investigate this a bit further when I have some time. If someone else has vetted these already, would love to hear about it.
 
Sheldon,
Take a look at this link for PAR36 LED "bulbs" --
http://www.grote.com/Trilliant36/

These are NOT inexpensive but they may be worth a look -- LEDs will create much less heat and require much less power than any of the traditional options. I'm going to investigate this a bit further when I have some time. If someone else has vetted these already, would love to hear about it.
The real question is which par36 they used in their comparison? The Gravely came with 4411's like they mention in the info. The 60w 4461's are much brighter than the 35w 4411's.

Agreed the current and heat issues would be a plus, but so far in my testing the 9.5 amps that two 4461's draw is not an issue. And in a longer test today the heat does not seem to be an issue either.

The way the lamps are mounted on the Pro G there is plenty of convective air circulation and the lens is the only plastic anywhere nearby.

After about 10 minutes today the lens was no hotter than it was after about a minute. And I could put my hand on it and keep it there. So I suspect the heat may not be a problem.

I will still likely experiment with a clear lens for even better light output.

LED tech is advancing quickly and may well be the light bulb technology of the future, better than CFL's in my view, but until they are not available, I will likely stay with traditional lamps if they do the job.

What do those things cost? Did you look at the video Richard linked to were the LED did not do so well against the aircraft 100w par36?

I agree it would be interesting to get more data on this product.

Sheldon
 
The real question is which par36 they used in their comparison? The Gravely came with 4411's like they mention in the info. The 60w 4461's are much brighter than the 35w 4411's.

What do those things cost? Did you look at the video Richard linked to were the LED did not do so well against the aircraft 100w par36?

I agree it would be interesting to get more data on this product.

Sheldon
Sheldon,
I should have given you this link:
http://www.grote.com/Trilliant36/63821-5.html

These LED bulbs are specifically made for tractors and the like -- they are 900 lumens and cost $125 each (I have no idea if they are available through multiple sources and could be found for less $$$. They do claim 40,000 hour life -- which, would mean that at the rate of using my 8179G (about 2,300 hours over 25 years means they would last about 434+ years according to my calculator at my current hourly pace!!!

So really you would not expect to replace them in your lifetime or your children's or grandchildren's. Wonder if they would still be able to get Gravely parts then?:biglaugh:

It's just a question of whether it would be worth the investment in our tractors vs other, less expensive (as you suggested lamps). The pics I have seen, however, look mighty good lighting-wise.
 
Sheldon,
Take a look at this link for PAR36 LED "bulbs" --
http://www.grote.com/Trilliant36/

These are NOT inexpensive but they may be worth a look -- LEDs will create much less heat and require much less power than any of the traditional options. I'm going to investigate this a bit further when I have some time. If someone else has vetted these already, would love to hear about it.
Well I did some more checking - about $125 EACH - OUCH!

I can see that for a warehouse fork truck, or other commercial use, but the two 4411's I just took out of my 15 year old 16G are the originals, still working, and the 4461's I just put in cost a premium $19 each.

The LED lamp puts out 900 lumens, the 60w 4461 500 lumens, the original 35w 4411's only 200 lumens.

Seems like for my uses a 150% increase, that is likely to last another 15 years is a better investment at $40 than the LED's at $250. Again, considering that the 60w lamps seem to be working fine with no heat or current issues.

Even if I do end up adding a headlight relay, the LED's are way past the point of demishing return for this application, nice as they might be.

Sheldon
 
Well I did some more checking - about $125 EACH - OUCH!

I can see that for a warehouse fork truck, or other commercial use, but the two 4411's I just took out of my 15 year old 16G are the originals, still working, and the 4461's I just put in cost a premium $19 each.

The LED lamp puts out 900 lumens, the 60w 4461 500 lumens, the original 35w 4411's only 200 lumens.

Seems like for my uses a 150% increase, that is likely to last another 15 years is a better investment at $40 than the LED's at $250. Again, considering that the 60w lamps seem to be working fine with no heat or current issues.

Even if I do end up adding a headlight relay, the LED's are way past the point of demishing return for this application, nice as they might be.

Sheldon
I agree with your thoughts -- but knowing how LED's are dropping in price, I am thinking it is worth watching. This appears to be the only lighting product targeted specifically at what we're trying to get with any kind of lamp replacements. I can't say right now it's worth $100 more for each bulb but if in a year or 2 that drops to $50 a bulb difference, I would very likely try them.

Thanks too for the lumens info on your bulbs -- clearly that's why the comparison photos on their website show such a difference. That's twice the light output and they seem as if they have a well-designed reflector that uses that output well.
 
Here is a thread from the John Deere section for LED replacement lights for those who may be interested. Just for information.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=160516

I don't have a four wheeler, just two two wheelers, a custom convertible electric start and a 5200 manual start. I am concerned about being out by the road at night moving snow and getting hit. The custom conv does not have a charging system nor does the 5200 so LED's make sense for me.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
charging system nor does the 5200 so LED's make sense for me.
Have you looked into adding a charging system to the 5200 engine and verified what you will need? The lack of a charging system was a real problem for me.
 
Richard,
That would be a tall order to fill. The 5200 is a recoil start with the slant hood like the old L's. I'd essentially have to convert it to either a 5260 or better to get a charging system. Battery box, hood, with my luck the motor plus other odds and ends I'm sure I'm not thinking of.
Believe it or not I actually like it the way it is. I like the larger two wheelers like the pro 16 you just got as well. Maybe one day I can find one I can afford.
So for lighting I was thinking battery powered LED fixture of some sort and maybe hold it on the walk behind with a strong magnet or make a bracket to hold the light.
 
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