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Quick update. Drained Mobil 1 and changed tranny filter. Refilled with Tufftorq oil and all is good. Zero noise from transmission and mower climbs like a goat. I'm not gonna try Mobil 1 again.
Some models had a hydro that required a special additive. My R322TX has the K574A/KTM10LB hydro and it is very happy with Castrol Power1 4T 10W-50 synthetic oil.
 
I used 5w50 Castrol which I think is the weight that Tufftorq recommended. I also got the friction modifier and even an extra bottle. I think the rear transmission itself is fine. I think my problem, when I have one, is with the mechanical power transfer from the motor pulley to the transmission pulley. The tensioning system is pretty crude, it bounces around a lot and doesn't like to get dusty. Mine was breaking springs. I wound up using recliner chair springs that seem more durable.
 
It is that time of year to switch over from mowing/leaf cleanup to snow plowing. When I do that, I remove the belt that goes to the deck and the cable on the tensioner. I also install a block-off plate on the PTO so that it doesn't engage when I lower the plow.

I also back off the counter-lift springs so that more of the weight of the snow plow is on the ground. In prior years, I used to completely remove the springs but my custom adapted 3rd party blade is heavy enough that it don't need to. I also replace the short stock lift handle with my custom made extra long handle to get more leverage.

I mentioned to the wife that all I have left to do is to change the oil over to 5W-20 and she questioned why I did not do it now. I run synthetic 10W-40 in the Spring/Summer/Fall and only switch to Winter oil when it gets really cold and harder to crank.

I also increase the tire pressure so they don't slip and pop the beads. I actually do that in two stages; the first stage being in the Fall when I switch back and forth between mowing, sweeping, and pushing the leaf compost pile. The second stage is to increase the tire diameter for snow plowing to get a little more ground speed. I have contemplated buying four new rims and larger Winter tires but my frugality has so far kept me from following through.
 
It's the 2 stage. I've replaced the drive sprockets and chain twice now and go through about 2 belts a season.
When I replaced the sprockets last time instead of going with OEM, I bought quality Martin sprockets and swapped them onto the shaft and hub. I documented it somewhere in this abyss.
They look like new after 2 seasons.

When I said it works as well as it did 6 years I meant it since this was an issue back then too.
I found a cheaper Gates belt that works as well as OEM and I can change it in under 5 minutes though.

When it's not breaking belts it goes through anything though!
 
We got another few inches of snow today and some good winds so there was a few 12" drifts on the driveway.
Everything was going good until it stopped blowing snow.... I thought I broke another belt but this time I could still here the gearbox whining away.
I took the cover plate off and the chain between the 2 sprockets jumped off. It was still intact.
It looked like the sprockets might not quite be inline... Or maybe the chain just loosened off.
I didn't look too hard since it was 9 o'clock and -20*c and I had the majority of the work done.
Turns out the snowblower makes a pretty good snow pusher too if needed. :ROFLMAO:
 
We got dumped on (for my area) a week ago, about 12-14" over 24 hours. I have the Kova Brush, and had to hit it 3 times throughout the snowfall, then a 4th time for clean-up the next day. I still like it, but it just doesn't handle much over about 3" at a time.

Lo and behold, a former Husky dealer posted a still-new Kova blade to FB Marketplace last Friday. Perfect timing because we got another ~4" that day and the next. It's no 2-stage blower, but for my needs, well ... she's a beauty! I went 7 years without a blade, but never again!

On to my question for the group:
I'm dripping oil from my front tranny (at the rear line -- see photo) every time I back up. Slow drip, nothing major, but I can't seem to muscle it tighter. I've seen instructions and descriptions on here -- apparently there's no grommet or bushing involved. Anyone have any tips? Thanks.

/brian

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This talk of Kova snowblowers... I have the single stage (Husqvarna number is 967276701), which is marginal. As in, it works OK, esp for fluffy snow, and only after you remove the protective grid which otherwise clogs up in almost any situation. Last winter I used it maybe 4-5 times and every time it did even worse than I recalled from earlier years. So if the snow was not perfect fluff I had to bring out the walk behind 2-stage blower and do it manually.
This year, did the usual seasonal checkup and the auger was working about 50% of the time. WTF? At first I thought my son was messing with me when he said "running"/"not"! Also realized the chain that drives the auger from the rear cog was very close to the inside edge of the thrower body surrounding the rear cog. After some further investigation, realized the set screw on the axle was missing...

After looking at the parts diagram, it is position #22, "set screw", but I was unable to find any dealer / retailer in the US that had it or could order it. All stated it was NLA, and no one knew the specs for it. In the end I gave up and ordered it from a Swedish repair shop that was able to get it from Husqvarna directly.
Meanwhile I also checked using my trusty thread size checker and it's a standard M10 thread, course (1.5 pitch), so also went ahead and ordered a standard M10 set screw from a US based retailer.

After reinstalling the set screw, using blue Loctite (and brake clean to ensure it's no grease in the threads) everything is working well again. So view this as a PSA for those running the single stage blower.
Since the press fit of the axle is good enough to work when not loaded (with snow), I wonder if this set screw started backing out last year and hence every time I thought it wasn't working right it may actually have been that it was slipping?
 
Looks similar to the problem I had earlier with my two stage, but instead of just a set screw it had a bolt going through the entire shaft that had worked itself loose.
It seems odd that there would just be a set screw holding a turning shaft and not a keyway as well.
 
Looks similar to the problem I had earlier with my two stage, but instead of just a set screw it had a bolt going through the entire shaft that had worked itself loose.
It seems odd that there would just be a set screw holding a turning shaft and not a keyway as well.
Agree 100%. Would make more sense to have a through bolt and nut.
 
Looks similar to the problem I had earlier with my two stage, but instead of just a set screw it had a bolt going through the entire shaft that had worked itself loose.
It seems odd that there would just be a set screw holding a turning shaft and not a keyway as well.
Particularlly for a snowblower, as they will use most of the power the engine can produce.. There'll be a keyway, shaft will be splined, or a through bolt instead of that set screw.
 
In order to give the Finish designers of the unit some credit (god knows it freaking snows in Finland!), I get the feeling they may have thought a press fit would be enough, but over time it has loosened. Splines with a set screw or a plain shaft with a through bolt would make a lot more sense.
I think it's a solid shaft so drilling through would be a challenge.
 
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