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Discussion starter · #161 ·
Yikes that's a lot a work for the little bugger :p

I'm very curious, what do you plan on doing with the logs? You seem adamant on keeping them whole :p
The plan for the logs changed over the years. Huge Pine in neighbors yard cut down. I had visions of cutting and air drying then maybe to a kiln. Well that didn’t happen and now the logs have seen to much weather to be used as lumber. Their new job is going to be curbs to hold dirt as they continue to return to the earth naturally. Seems like a waste of knotty pine wood but I just couldn’t pull it off as I hoped. I could have cut them but that would make dragging them to easy!
The tractor did a good job. I had to add the 560lbs to the rear to go anywhere. Filling the bucket with extra weight would have helped too. The front end was lite. This only happened because it was all downhill. Trickiest part was maneuvering around manhole, and I nearly smashed one of my wife’s planters…it stopped one foot away as I sent it rolling!
 
Discussion starter · #162 ·
Nice!!! Well done with that block & tackle, too!

Remind me, what is your relief valve set to?
Just checked pressure 900-idle 1100-full throttle. I’ll try for 1400 with shims. I bought plenty of both thicknesses. I’ll take any recommendations people have for how many and sizes I’ll need. If none come I’ll do the trial n error method. What should I expect 100PSI increase approximately 100 more lbs of lift capacity?
 
I don’t think it’s exactly 1:1 on psi and lift capacity. But it may not be too far off. Stock pressure is supposed to be 924 psi, which equates roughly to the combined weight of the 45 FEL and its published lift capacity.

1400 psi is getting up there pretty high. I know Mr. Beef is doing it, though. I plan to target the 1250-1350 range.

If you are getting 1100 psi already then likely someone already shimmed yours. I have read of using the 0.2 and 0.5 shims, which is what I plan to order when I do mine. But I don’t know how much additional psi to expect per shim.
 
Discussion starter · #164 ·
I don’t think it’s exactly 1:1 on psi and lift capacity. But it may not be too far off. Stock pressure is supposed to be 924 psi, which equates roughly to the combined weight of the 45 FEL and its published lift capacity.

1400 psi is getting up there pretty high. I know Mr. Beef is doing it, though. I plan to target the 1250-1350 range.

If you are getting 1100 psi already then likely someone already shimmed yours. I have read of using the 0.2 and 0.5 shims, which is what I plan to order when I do mine. But I don’t know how much additional psi to expect per shim.
 
I am HAPPY to say they are American made!
Hey Lou, circling back to these Versa Turfs..

I was installing the loader subframe on my X748, so was crawling around under the tractor and got a better look at these Field Trax. Plenty of tread on them, but unfortunately they are aging out with a fair bit of sidewall cracking. I had been hoping to use these for a season or two - - but I think it would be unwise with a loader mounted.

That has me moving up my Versa Turf purchase plans. You said yours were made in USA - - which is great. But I am finding the front VTs are listed as “Made in China”. Are your fronts also made in USA, or just the rears? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #168 · (Edited)
Hey Lou, circling back to these Versa Turfs..

I was installing the loader subframe on my X748, so was crawling around under the tractor and got a better look at these Field Trax. Plenty of tread on them, but unfortunately they are aging out with a fair bit of sidewall cracking. I had been hoping to use these for a season or two - - but I think it would be unwise with a loader mounted.

That has me moving up my Versa Turf purchase plans. You said yours were made in USA - - which is great. But I am finding the front VTs are listed as “Made in China”. Are your fronts also made in USA, or just the rears? Thanks.
I was crawling under my tractor today also. I replaced the existing rear hydraulic ports with the kit AuxiliaryHydraulics sells. I got the 1/4 turn lockout for both the curl circuit and 3Pt cylinder in rear. Yes I will answer your question but I have one. Seems like I should be adding a lockout to the bucket lift on the tractor not the curl circuit. I’m a bit confused on this.
Upper lever curls n raises lift arms. Lower lever raises bucket and will engage new “live hydraulics” in rear. So don’t I want the lockout on the bucket up circuit?

Yes you are right after removing a lot of dried mud I found the China mark on front tires. Now I won’t be able to sleep tonight. I even saw China on the TEE fittings from AuxiliaryHydraulics, it’s hard to avoid.

I hope your project went well. Don’t forget to lift with care if your Curtis Cab is installed when mounting 45 Loader. That horizontal bar is at windshield height and it misses it by a tiny margin as it goes into place. Very scary to watch, just touch it and it’s all over.
 
Okay thanks for the info on the tires. I try to avoid those whenever possible but if I go with Versa Turfs it doesn’t seem possible. Btw, could I ask you to measure the height of your cab with the VTs? You mentioned they are taller than the Field Trax and I have very little clearance to spare on my garage door already.

The lockouts should go on the one circuit that raises/lowers the 3PH and mower deck. That should be the curl circuit on the FEL (or the angle circuit for front blade.) That way you can still raise and lower the FEL boom while using the 3PH or mower deck.

If the rear remotes are plumbed into the same circuit as the bucket/blade lift, then yes you will either need to disconnect the lift hoses or add another lockout valve. It kind of surprises me the rear remotes would be plumbed into that circuit. With the two other lockouts already in place on the other circuit, that would seem like the one to use.

Btw, did you have any difficulty installing the rear remotes with the loader subframe/bar in the way by the SCV? It looks like space will be tight. And did the mounting bracket at the rear work okay with the cab?

Thanks for the caution on mounting the FEL and the cab window.👍
 
Discussion starter · #170 ·
Okay thanks for the info on the tires. I try to avoid those whenever possible but if I go with Versa Turfs it doesn’t seem possible. Btw, could I ask you to measure the height of your cab with the VTs? You mentioned they are taller than the Field Trax and I have very little clearance to spare on my garage door already.

The lockouts should go on the one circuit that raises/lowers the 3PH and mower deck. That should be the curl circuit on the FEL (or the angle circuit for front blade.) That way you can still raise and lower the FEL boom while using the 3PH or mower deck.

If the rear remotes are plumbed into the same circuit as the bucket/blade lift, then yes you will either need to disconnect the lift hoses or add another lockout valve. It kind of surprises me the rear remotes would be plumbed into that circuit. With the two other lockouts already in place on the other circuit, that would seem like the one to use.

Btw, did you have any difficulty installing the rear remotes with the loader subframe/bar in the way by the SCV? It looks like space will be tight. And did the mounting bracket at the rear work okay with the cab?

Thanks for the caution on mounting the FEL and the cab window.👍
The height is 75”+3” for a (permanently) installed eye bolt on top.
The support bar is in the way but the hoses went over without much issue.
The rear bracket was no issue with cab.
The front bracket is not working as shown in installation picture due to loader frame and cab mount. It fits but really not doing it’s intended purpose without a cable tie added.
Thanks for hydraulic info. I bought two 1/4 bypass valves there is a knob one already in place on SCV but I like the idea of 1/4 turn there instead. I’ll put one on each bucket function then I should be able to use my Fiterite hydraulic top link when it comes in September, 33week lead time on these now and pricey. However it’s nice to support the little shops ( one man) and it’s hard to find Cat0-1 hydraulic top links. Manual links were hard to find too. I got two from Bill Ruegg.
I would love to see picks of your cab installation!
I am not looking forward to removing mine but must do it for shimming process.
I don’t know where it goes or exactly what it is but do you have to install a relief valve since you’re adding a 45 loader. I was reading posts about that being there to protect transaxle stress using loader. This is a learn as you go process for me.
 
Thanks very much for the cab height measurement. Sounds like it didn’t change much with the VersaTurfs, as 75” is the height others have measured with the FieldTrax. Your side-by-side photos made them look a lot taller, but of course the extra total height is halved and they squat a bit when mounted too.

Interesting plan for your lockout valves. Since you have the oem valve already, that opens up more possibilities. The hydraulic toplink sounds interesting.

I have the curl lockout valve and am ordering the other lock-out valve that installs in the return line from the rockshaft cylinder, which will hold rear ballast up without bleeding down, as the one on the scv allows. This will require removing the seat/foot pan.

So I have a big work day planned once all the parts are here. I will remove the seatpan, then install the THRV, install new rod, shim the IRV, install the return lockout valve, re-locate the rockshaft cylinder, install the rear PTO, install rear 3PH. Not necessarily in that order.

Cab won’t go on until everything is thoroughly tested and I know I won’t need to remove the seat pan again for a while.

All these mods are why people with plenty of space order a BX or 1-Series.
 
Discussion starter · #172 ·
Thanks very much for the cab height measurement. Sounds like it didn’t change much with the VersaTurfs, as 75” is the height others have measured with the FieldTrax. Your side-by-side photos made them look a lot taller, but of course the extra total height is halved and they squat a bit when mounted too.

Interesting plan for your lockout valves. Since you have the oem valve already, that opens up more possibilities. The hydraulic toplink sounds interesting.

I have the curl lockout valve and am ordering the other lock-out valve that installs in the return line from the rockshaft cylinder, which will hold rear ballast up without bleeding down, as the one on the scv allows. This will require removing the seat/foot pan.

So I have a big work day planned once all the parts are here. I will remove the seatpan, then install the THRV, install new rod, shim the IRV, install the return lockout valve, re-locate the rockshaft cylinder, install the rear PTO, install rear 3PH. Not necessarily in that order.

Cab won’t go on until everything is thoroughly tested and I know I won’t need to remove the seat pan again for a while.

All these mods are why people with plenty of space order a BX or 1-Series.
A big workday?!! If you can do that in a day my hat’s off to your sir. Those mods will get you well familiarized with your 748.
I think owning a 1025R would be nice and fun but then I’d want a 2038R! I think we will be happy with our 748’s.Buying more land to expand our arsenal can be the warm fuzzy thought at night to lull us to sleep. Enjoy!
 
A big workday?!! If you can do that in a day my hat’s off to your sir. Those mods will get you well familiarized with your 748.
I think owning a 1025R would be nice and fun but then I’d want a 2038R! I think we will be happy with our 748’s.Buying more land to expand our arsenal can be the warm fuzzy thought at night to lull us to sleep. Enjoy!
Ha!! Yeah, you are right. The way my projects usually go, it will be many partial days of effort. I rarely ever have a true full day available. And I usually run into “difficulties” that cause everything to take much longer than expected. With this list of tasks, there’s a lot of potential for me to screw something up!

More land would be nice.
 
Haha, exactly what I wanted to say. Looks crowded :)) your bucket has all the bells and whisles :p
 
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Discussion starter · #176 ·
Haha, exactly what I wanted to say. Looks crowded :)) your bucket has all the bells and whisles :p
I may have a couple flanged eye bolts laying around to fill existing holes…then it’ll be complete. The Chore Masters on the outside of bucket from JUFabworks were not designed for the 45 Loader bucket. I needed to bend them closed a bit and trim off front edges and drill two extra mounting holes. Everything wasn’t in stock when I ordered or I think everything would have been spun 180. I can lift from back of bucket for better leverage and front now with Chore Masters added.
 
Discussion starter · #177 ·
I decided to brave the mud today! I need to move the 748 to the shed. The lawn can’t handle the trip from garage to shed. I’m moving rocks so I can get a straight shot into shed.
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The tractor handles the rocks well. I drive a short distance then offload them. I think this is too much weight for the front end but the bucket lifts it’s fine, slowly but fine.
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I saw Roger (X748SE) use a brush grubber on some small saplings. I think I’ll get one to remove a couple in my future path.
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The 318 will have to brave the weather until I can get her to the garage. I removed the chains and I’m pretty sure the mud will be too much.
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I have to take off IMatch and HH to make it fit.
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That’s a big load of rocks and quite a bit off a side incline. No wet pants? :)
 
First hand example of “You can never make a shed/barn too big.” And it’s into the side of the shed rather than the end where you could just extend it.

Large rocks should make for a good base, but may need to lay in some gravel with a drain tile to keep it drier so the rocks won’t move.
 
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