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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can we talk tiller tires?

Is there such a thing as "flat free" or "worry free" bar tread chevron traction tires?

There appears to be a reason why tillers like the TroyBilt, Husqvarna, MTD, and Sears Craftsman came equipped with TUBELESS tiller tires, and I'm curious what that reason is.

If I had to guess, it is that tires with tubes slip on the rim, which disclocates and sometimes lacerates the tube's valve stem protruding through the valve stem hole of the steel wheel. With a tubless tire, the valve stem is fixed, regardless of any bead slippage of the tire.

But the downside of the tubeless tire is when it gets penetrated, it goes flat. Or when it loses air, it also slips away from the rim flange, and then becomes a chore to reseat, using ratchet straps or whatever. And if it goes flat during the off season, while the tiller is safely stored away in the shed, one can return 6 months later and find not only the tire is flat and unseated off the bead, it is also cracked, from having not stored the tiller elevated entirely off the tires.

That bell cannot be unrung, but going forward, I've been trying to find flat free worry free solid but still somewhat buoyant bar tread traction tires to replace the 16" outside diameter 4.80/4.00-8 tires that came stock with an early '80's TroyBilt Horse 3, and likewise came stock with a mid '90's Craftsman rear counter rotating tine tiller.

The Craftsman tire were branded "Sears", but the TroyBilt tires were branded Goodyear, made in the USA. I tried to find ANY Ag (agricultural) tire (either pneumatic or solid) that was made in the USA, or had a traditional USA tire company brand name, such as Goodyear, or Firestone, in the 4.80/4.00-800 size, without any luck.

The obvious idea to preserve the use of the original equipment Goodyear tubeless tires is to introduce a tube inside the punctured and now sidewall cracked tire casing. But that introduces all the faults of tube tires, and circumvents whatever the reasons were for the rototiller manufacturers to specify tubeless tires for this application in the first place.

So I turned to Carlisle, who appears to have two different part numbers... 510050 and 5109501. I don't understand the difference between these two tires, but the generic aftermarket (China?) tire industry appears to have two different part number equivalents also... 165-076 and 160-182. Depending on reseller, these same numbers are sometimes listed without the hyphen, as 165076 and 160182.

What is frustrating about buying online (which is required, since none of these tires are carried by the local hardware stores) is that the vendors advertise the "name brand", but are actually selling something that is a "replacement for" or "equivalent to" the name brand they list. So even while in my opinion Carlisle might be a step down from Goodyear, there is no guarantee that I would even receive a Carlisle, or a Kenda even (such as Kenda 22470009), were I to order from any given vendor online. I'd receive a bar tread tire that was "equivalent", or that "replaces", the tire I researched.

But even my research is flawed, or rather, incomplete. Carlisle offers three different bar treads, which they described as "Power Trac" (Good), "Super Lug" (Better), and "Tru Power" (Best). I've also seen Super Lug and Power Trac inversed in some literature as far as which is "Good", and which is "Better." But Carlisle does not explain the physical characteristics or reasons why one series of bar tread tire is better than the other. And it is unclear if the "Best" is even available in the 4.80/4.00-8 size.

For that matter, I'm not even clear about what 4.80 designates, vis a vis 4.00, as the original Goodyear tires that shipped with the TroyBilt only say 4.00-8, and make no mention of 4.80. Yet all of the TroyBilt parts catalogs identify the replacement tire as 4.80. I get that the -8 means 8" rim. I'm guessing that the 4.80 stands for section width, and that the 4.00 is the measured equivalent of aspect ratio... but I'm not certain. Can we talk?

At the end of the day, I'm looking for net 16" over all diameter bar tread traction tires that LAST, forever, under unforgivable conditions of neglect. A flat free alternative would be very enticing, but is glaringly absent of any offerings I've explored. There must be a reason... as it would otherwise be too obvious of a solution for the tire manufacturers to ignore.

Killer tiller tires... please discuss!
 
FWIW, about five years ago I took a rear tire from a Garden Tractor to a local tire shop to have a new one mounted. They offered to load it (additional weight in liquid form in the tire for weight). They also offered a "never flat" option on the loading. I wasn't interested as I've been loading smaller tractor tires for years with Windshield Washer Fluid-the northern version which doesn't freeze. You might try local tire shops, particularly ones who repair tractor or Heavy Equipment tires. Answering the obvious question, the tire wasn't a candidate for a tube as the sidewall was rotten.
 
I wonder if it has to do with the fact that flat free tires have less "give" in them, which gives them a higher rolling resistance and a tendency to get hung up on/bounce over rough ground and obstacles. Total guess though.

If your tires are still good, you could consider getting them foamed.
 
The cynic in me always assumed the "no-tube" approach was simply a cost-cutting measure that gave them higher margins per unit. A pair of valve stems is a lot cheaper than a pair of tubes.

They do make tubes with metal valve stems (usually bent at 90 degrees to make filling easier on the small rims), which would help guard against bead-slippage-induced laceration.

I've run tubed ag tires on my old MTD rear-tine for 3 years now, and never had an issue. In my mind, in order for the tire bead to slip, there would need to be a perfect storm of the tire itself not breaking traction with the ground, the cable-actuated pulley tensioner for the drive belt, which itself has a spring to allow for some give, not "giving," and the belt itself not slipping on the pulley.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
@dflocks80 what you write is interesting, as I also have an MTD tiller (branded by Sears Craftsman, belt drive, rear tine, counter-rotating), and as I recall my bar and tread tires routinely break traction with the soil as I am tilling. In other words, the bar treads on the tires are tilling as much as the counter rotating tines are!

With that tiller, there is no separate speed control for the forward motion and the tine motion, and I perhaps tarry too long as I meander up and down the rows, in order to allow the tines to really mix the soil up. So in essence, I'm somewhat holding the tiller back, and that is when the tires spin.

Ironically, I have no trouble with the tires on that tiller. They are branded Sears, but also say "Power Trac" on them, so I assume they were made by Carlisle.

It is the Troybilt Horse 3 tires branded as Goodyear that I'm trying to repair or replace.

Filling with foam sounds like an option, but a confusing one, as a search on that topic yields quite a few DIY expanding insulation foam suggestions, which doesn't appear to be the type of foam that would have a resilient and self restorative modulus of elasticity (bounce back) that a commercially purchased "flat free" garden tire appears to have.

Insulation spray foam, once crushed, does not spring back to life. So if I have to take my original tires to have them professionally filled by a foam filling tire shop... I haven't a clue where to begin to look, nor what the cost would be vis a vis just buying new tires.

Yet buying new tires sets me up for the same old problem in future years, so I am seeking a smarter and more permanent resolution. Or just basic knowledge about tiller tires.
 
Haha, my MTD does the same thing. Sounds pretty similar to yours too; no separate tine/drive speed control. My wheels and tires are smaller though- 13x5-6. Traction breaks all the time. I'm a week or so away from giving it a good pushing in the garden for the first till of the year. Mine is running Carlisle Super Lugs, and I've been happy with them. For what it's worth, I've had decent luck with some of the Chinese branded tires that can be found on Amazon.

And you're right on regarding the insulation foam. Haven't tried it myself (nor will I ever), but know a guy who did. It makes a giant mess, and like you said, does not "bounce back." On a tiller especially, you'd have it flat-spotted in no time (and a set of ruined tires and messy rims to boot). It's amazing to me how many folks on Youtube post how-to videos on the procedure.
 
If you clean the rims up, paint them inside and out with an oil-based paint, and use tubes, they will outlast your lifetime of use and likely the next person who ends up with the machine.

As said above, tubeless is a cost-cutting measure. Tubes are much better with the low tire pressures used.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
It's amazing to me how many folks on Youtube post how-to videos on the procedure.
It's amazing to me how many folks make YouTube videos at all, on topics about which they know nothing, having never done it before.

There are of course many notable exceptions, but the bulk of YouTube is exactly why I turn to the forums. The format of forums tends to eliminate the illiterate.
 
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I have a PTO Horse 3, and it has forward rotating tines. The tire's job in this application is to hold the tiller back. I have a hard time visualizing a scenario where there is enough weight and torque on them to spin on the rims. I suspect they will break free of the soil well before that.

I'm pretty sure I have the original set on, so if they ever fail the next set should last another 30+ years in my opinion.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I have several garden wagons, each with four pneumatic tires, all of which have tubes inside as originally equipped.

These garden wagons have been used for various things over the years, but not as productively as I intended when I bought them new for about $100 each (read:cheap).

Mostly, they were strung together to make a train to pull the neighborhood kids up and down road. Good times.

Anyway, all the valve stems for the tubes in the tires go cockeyed, indicating that either the tube or the tire has spun slightly on the rim, taking the tube with it.

This is what I'm trying to avoid.

I recall when passenger car tires had tubes in them. Tires were sized by letters back then, and were bias ply. I remember the automotive industry's transition to a tubeless tire was a big deal, considered a big improvement. I can no longer remember if the transition to tubeless coincided with, or preceded, the transition to radial tires... but if tubed tires were better, why doesn't Mercedes or Bentley or other expense is no object luxury brands continue to offer tubed tires?

Reading back my own question, it has the potential to sound sarcastic, so I want to assure you that it is indeed a genuine question / curiosity.

I have several dollies aka handtrucks that came with pneumatic tubeless tires. All those tires are flat. I can't keep air in them. I have to squeeze them with a ratchet strap to air them back up, and it is too much of a bother. That's why I have several of them. They were all free. People give them away and go get dollies with solid tires. I've converted one to solid tires already.

So there are gotchas with tubed tires, and gotchas with tubeless tires (on the small equipment at least). And there are gotchas with flat free tires for equipment that sits a long time without use, such as my rototillers do. I put four Harbor Freight flat free tires on my Kemp Shredder, and let it sit in one place for about 10 years. Now when I roll it, I can hear and feel a thump thump thump every tire revolution. So there's that too.

Still studying...

Image
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Interesting...

Here is another tiller tire I noticed today on a new Chinese import tiller sold by Northern Tool...

Image


Essentially, rubberized lugs on larger diameter steel wheels.
 
Only tiller I will probably even mess with this year will be the little Mathis work horse with no tires. Yes no tires! I have two tractor mounts and a rear tine. But that little Mathis that looks like a toy is the go to here. And not a tire to worry about.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I've seen those little cultivators. They can be picked up and carried by hand. The sheer weight of the TroyBilt Horse 3 prevents it from being carried, or even moved readily, without well inflated tires.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Haha, my MTD does the same thing. Sounds pretty similar to yours too; no separate tine/drive speed control. My wheels and tires are smaller though- 13x5-6. Traction breaks all the time.
I've often been curious about this. Since I bought my Craftsman (MTD) brand new (almost 30 years ago), I recall paying a lot of attention to how tillers were made, and how features and options changed from year to year. I did notice when Sears changed the tire size from

16" total diameter X 4.80" section width X 4.00" rim width at the bead seat X 8" rim diameter

to

13" total diameter x 5" (either section width or rim width, not sure) X 6" rim diameter

And I've often wondered about the reasons for this change in tire size. Even while Sears upped the horsepower of motors attached to the same tiller transmission (from 5 HP, to 6.5 HP, to 7 HP), the overall tire diameter got smaller... and a bit wider.

Since the overall tire and wheel diameter is an intrinsic part of the power equation in terms of gearing, I thought the change was intriguing.

A similar tire diameter difference is found in the Troy-Bilt line of tillers, but in the opposite direction, where the larger horsepower Horse tillers have the taller 16" tires, while the smaller horsepower Pony tillers are fitted with the smaller 13" tires.

Is this a function of gearing?

Or is this a function of tiller TILT? By tilt, I mean that the taller the tire, the higher the tiller transmission, and therefore the steeper the tiller TILT must be (engine upwards, handles downwards) to achieve the same tilling depth. At some point, the aft edge and piano hinge of the curved sheetmetal shroud covering the rotating tines becomes a dozer blade, with the trailing back flap just along for the ride, when tilling at full depth. The taller tire that positions the tilt axis higher may exacerbate this dozer effect more.

Then there is the wider tire to consider. I notice that Bolens and BCS hydraulic tillers use W I D E R tires. What is the reason for this?

If I maintained the stock 16" tire height that came with my tillers, I could still deploy a wider tire in the form of a 16" x 6.50" x 8" (getting new rims, obviously, with hub insets/outsets matching the axle width). Is there any advantage to this? I wouldn't do this on the Sears, as the cultivation width is 17". But the TroyBilt is 20", and the stock 4" wide tires/wheels appear to be 2" inboard of the tine cover on either side. Is there any advantage to wider tires? More surface area of the contact patch over soft tilth soil?

It's not "over thinking" until understanding is achieved.
 
The wider tire is for flotation. A narrower tire will dig deeper. With a rear tine tiller flotation is not essential. Not quite the case with a front tine and the drive tires are in lose dirt. Anyway that how I see it. Taller tire even though it increases travel speed will put more rubber on the ground than the shorter slower tire. So it becomes a balancing act.
 
FWIW, I've owned two TB Horses. Never had a problem with the tires on the late 70s unit. Couldn't keep air overnight in the tires on the early 90s unit. I tubed the tires on that one and haven't had any more problems.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
It does help. Thanks Mike, and to @dflocks80, who a week ago in this thread reported a successful experience tubing tiller tires that have held air for 3 years now.

However, I'm simultaneously following another concurrent thread on tires, and a @matt167, who services tires professionally, had this to say about tubes these days:

One bummer is tubes almost always get the valve stems torn off or "ripped" when a tire goes flat while the tractor or impliment is in motion and the tire moves on the rim,before you become aware it went flat..tubes are not cheap any more (in price anyways,the quality has degraded a lot!)..
Quality degraded to the point that my shop cannot really warranty them. split at seams, valve stems de vulcanize. Just horrible quality.. Firestone will honor a warranty for us, but it does not cover labor.. We will replace the small stuff because it costs the shop under $20 in almost all cases
 
I've had mixed results with tubes on a wheelbarrow, but I was using cheap ones.

I've been using heavy duty tubes on my tractor carts and tractor, and those have worked much better.

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
It sounds like if I were to go with tubes, I would need tubes that are:

1. Heavy Duty

This means I would first need to know how to distinguish the physical tube construction characteristics between "heavy" duty, "standard" duty, "light" duty, or any other duty as described, because I imagine that every tube manufacturer will market their tubes as "heavy duty", yet some tubes have been proven to work better than others, as reported by Mike.

2. Have a metal (brass) Right Angle (90°) valve stem

The 90° not only makes inflation easier on smaller wheels, but also has been reported to help the tube seem to stay in place better (not spin on the rim). My neighbor has a nice dolly with pneumatic 4.10-4 tires that have tubes with all brass 90° stems, and those tires never seem to lose air, and he leaves the dolly sitting outside 24/7. Even if the tubes did rotate, the metal stems appear to hold up better (resistance to laceration from the circumferential edge of the valve hole in the steel rim).

Any suggestions on brands and model numbers of 4.80-8 inner tubes that have these two characteristics?
 
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