Also I don't have a wrench to tighten this down, used channel locks as hard as I could.
No instructions or torque ratings. Actually there are instructions but Spanish only. Did see 217nm somewhere.
Lock washer above nut or under ball flange?
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latexyankee
Also I don't have a wrench to tighten this down, used channel locks as hard as I could.
No instructions or torque ratings. Actually there are instructions but Spanish only. Did see 217nm somewhere.
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Also I don't have a wrench to tighten this down, used channel locks as hard as I could.
No instructions or torque ratings. Actually there are instructions but Spanish only. Did see 217nm somewhere.
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5,967 Posts
Above the nut... which you have threaded on upside-down, turn it over.
You'll never get proper torque down with a pair of pliers, at least use a monkey wrench.
You'll never get proper torque down with a pair of pliers, at least use a monkey wrench.
Edit - Wouldn't let me add any content...
160 Ft-Lb - if it's to just move stuff around the yard just crank it down to collapse the lock washer
Over the road - go to an Autozone and rent a torque wrench and socket (1-1/8" ??)
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3,745 Posts
Go to harbor freight and buy a half inch drive ratchet set. It won't be a bank breaker. I have 2, 3/4 inch drive sets with sockets up to 3 inches. When you need that thing it's worth every penny. Just did a quick search and you can get a 22 piece 1/2 drive set at Lowes for $54.98 and that would be a pretty good one.
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6,761 Posts
Maybe he's in Australia, so it would be correct..........lol
Yeah, that nut isn't tight enough, the lock washer needs to be flattened.
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4,522 Posts
The nut does need to be tightened so that the split ring lock washer is flat. The correct torque value for the 1 inch fine thread bolt is 210 ft-lbs, but as long as the nut is much tighter you won't have any problems. Get a pipe wrench and snug it down.
www.boltdepot.com
Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque
www.boltdepot.com
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3,745 Posts
I always tell folks to just google the size bolt and torque. So, I just did "torque 1 inch bolt" first one that popped up was 622. I X'ed that one out and reworded it, and a chart from Bolt Depot popped up, it had a chart from a #4 up to 1 inch. A 1 in, grade 2, course thread said 180, fine thread 220. Over under grade 8, course was 660, and grade 8 fine was 7XX. I don't want to torque a grade 8 bolt on anything.160 ft. lbs. You aren't going to do that with channel locks.....
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1,591 Posts
IMHO, turf the lockwasher and use a gr8 flat and Loctite. Lockwashers, again IMHO, the only time they may do something is when the nut comes loose and by then it's too late. As was said, torque it to the correct value......Mike
I have had one come loose, enough for the ball to shift back and forth to wear a groove in the bracket it bolts to. You need to get a socket to get that torqued down right, and perhaps, on an ongoing basis, look at the top of the ball around it's mounting surface when you hook/unhook a trailer, to see if there is any sign of the ball moving...
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1,780 Posts
Were you using a ball with the correct diameter shank for the hole in your hitch? I see a lot of folks using a ball with a shank too small for the hole in the hitch. 2-inch balls are available with 3/4, 1, and 1-1/4 diameter shanks.
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10,548 Posts
Ok I looked at that nut a few times. I just can’t tell what makes it upside down. Looks like the flats are almost identically radiused to both top and bottom of the nut. What am I missing?
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26,417 Posts
Go to Lowes and get this set....you will find it very useful
You can get one of these: Hitch Ball Wrench (harborfreight.com)
torque specifications: Reese BALL MOUNTS & DRAWBARS (reese-hitches-online.com)
You will need another wrench to hold the ball. The HF one works fine. Lowes and HD also carry them for a few dollars more and a little bit nicer looking. You probably won't use the hitch ball wrench for anything else. The pliers @MARK (LI) suggested will have other uses, but I am not sure the 10" one will be big enough.
You will need another wrench to hold the ball. The HF one works fine. Lowes and HD also carry them for a few dollars more and a little bit nicer looking. You probably won't use the hitch ball wrench for anything else. The pliers @MARK (LI) suggested will have other uses, but I am not sure the 10" one will be big enough.
I am guessing that is because you normally put the washer UNDER the nut. So, clearly, the nut must be on upside down, but really it is the threaded shank that is upside down. But, it all depends on your perspective.
You need two big wrenches. My Reese HD wrench has a 1-1/8" side and a 1-1/2" side. The Lowes and Craftsman sites have no or wrong information about the max opening (I am pretty sure it does go to 24 inches like the Craftsman site says). HD lists the 12" (Crescent) opening to 1-1/2" and the 10" to 1-5/16. One or both of the wrenches will fit the nut, but the real wrench is longer by several inches. The flats on the ball mount look quite a bit larger, so I don't think either one will fit. I don't remember if I used a pipe wrench or got an even bigger adjustable wrench. Pliers won't work.
I'm pretty sure he meant the lock washer was upside down, not the nut. But, I don't think the washer is on wrong. As said but several, flatten that lock washer. Borrow an adjustable cresent wrench from the neighbor for about 20 seconds and offer to pull something for him some day.
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