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#42 ·
try this IDEA.....leave the wheel rim on.....just break the tire off there usin old tire spoons...may have to repaint the inner part of rim after removin rust.....then mount tire on the rim while it is on the mower.....done that several times here.....works super for me...
 
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#43 ·
Thought I'd share my stuck wheel story...

I have a 185 that that I couldn't get the wheel off of. I had tried hitting the wheel from behind with a large hammer onto a block of wood. That didn't work, so I had the entire rear end out and had the wheel sitting on 2 pieces of heavy steel with the entire transaxle hanging down. I sprayed penetrant (PB Blaster and Zepreserve) for 2 days and also used oxy-acetylene torch to heat up the collar. Tried to hit on the end of the axleshaft with a brass drift and then a large punch while the wheel was stationary. All it did was mushroom the end of the axleshaft and somehow the extreme shock of an 8 lb hammer broke the hydrostat output gear in half, which cost $70 to replace. I dressed up the end of the axle with a die grinder and then proceeded to phase two.

I made a puller. I took a 1/2" thick plate, drilled a 3/4" hole in the center, welded a 3/4-16 nut over the hole, and drilled two 1/2" holes on the plate and in the wheel. I bolted the puller to the wheel using two 1/2" bolts and used a long 3/4-16 bolt to press on the end of the axleshaft. I used a 1/2" impact to tighten the 3/4" bolt and it ended up breaking the wheel where the rim is welded to the collar. Now I had a broken wheel, so I proceeded to phase 3.

I located two used wheels/tires for my 185 on ebay for a good deal. (John Deere wants $90 for just a wheel, and I got both used wheels/tires for $65 shipped to the door.) Then I took my good 'ole Smith oxy-acetylene torch, cut the rim portion off the collar, then turned down the torch and "washed" the collar off the axleshaft. Then I cleaned up the axleshaft with emery cloth and mounted my new to me wheel/tire, using a boatload of antiseize. This was to replace a leaking axle seal and also to facilitate any potential future repairs that may require splitting the case halves of the differential. If the other axle seal decides to start leaking, and I can't get the wheel to come off fairly easily, out the torch will come. I won't risk damage to the axleshaft or internal components again.

Will
 
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
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KATT got back from Mass. No luck tried more heat more PB Blaster more hitting. Decided not to destroy the trans. and gave up.

plan 1... get local JD Dealer to remove wheel mucho $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

plan 2... See if tire supplier can mount the one tire on tractor if he hauls it up there

plan 3.... Need a plan 3
 
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#47 · (Edited)
Something might be able to be done with the key...Mine had woodruff key instead of straight key like yours, so wasn't an option for me.

At this point if there's no damage done to the transaxle, then I'd change the tire on the mower (hardest part is breaking the bead but after that not that bad.) If that's not an option, then I'm with PA318 guy. Find a used wheel or two, and torch the wheel off the axle. If this is not in your skillset, then have it done and be sure to wrap a wet rag around the end of the axletube or do like I did and have a stream of water trickling on it so the seal doesn't get burnt up.

Save your transaxle! Beating on it will at the least damage the end of the shaft, or possibly worse...breaking a gear inside like I did! If you're close to GA then I'd be happy to change out the tire for you on the mower or cut the wheel off for you without damaging anything else.

Good Luck!

Will

Edit: I see you're in NH, a little far from me...If the tire supplier actually changes tires (i.e., not solely a distributor, but an actual tire shop) then they should have no problem changing it. If I can do it, then somebody that does it for a living should have no problem.
 
#49 ·
Maybar, thats a good idea. I thought about doing that on my 185, but with the long stroke of my sawzall, the blade would be beating up against the end of the axletube, so I ruled it out.
 
#51 ·
wmgibbs said:
Maybar, thats a good idea. I thought about doing that on my 185, but with the long stroke of my sawzall, the blade would be beating up against the end of the axletube, so I ruled it out.
Click to expand...
***********************************************************
Just position the saw so the forward stroke stops near the inboard end of the hub and don't attempt to free hand it. Find something to rest your forearms on and you can make a nice precision cut.
 
#52 ·
KATT said:


KATT got back from Mass. No luck tried more heat more PB Blaster more hitting. Decided not to destroy the trans. and gave up.

plan 1... get local JD Dealer to remove wheel mucho $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

plan 2... See if tire supplier can mount the one tire on tractor if he hauls it up there

plan 3.... Need a plan 3[/QUOTE]

That poor little tractor! Reading this thread just makes me want to go home this afternoon and make sure I can pull the back rims off my own 160. I did my fronts after I got the machine from the PO (got them tubed up), and one was SOMEWHAT rusted on, but I just pulled the whole spindle and carefully knocked it out of the rim with a small punch... Sounds like not really an option with the rears...

KATT, give the kid my condolences!
Click to expand...
 
#53 ·
I can remove that transmission and have an axle shaft out in under an hour, for all of the time that heating, pulling etc. has taken, why not just remove the transmission, remove the top cover, take that side axle out and take it to a shop with a press to have the axle pressed out of the rim? You won't ruin anything and it can be put back together and fixed same day. In the process you could even change the 25 year old grease in the transmission.

JMHO
Dan
 
#54 · (Edited)
That might work on Peerless 5 speed, and that's a great idea.

But on the Peerless differential in my 185, at least one of the wheels has to be off in order to split the case halves. if the wheels are rusted on, then you're stuck.

Edit: just looked at the exploded diagram for the transaxle. I see that the way the case halves split would allow removal the axleshaft.

I vote for this method. All this time I didn't realize that the cases split differently than they did on my 185. Great idea!
 
#56 ·
wmgibbs said:
That might work on Peerless 5 speed, and that's a great idea.

But on the Peerless differential in my 185, at least one of the wheels has to be off in order to split the case halves. if the wheels are rusted on, then you're stuck.
Click to expand...
The 185 is a hydro, we are dealing with a 160, the 160 has a manual transmission, if he had a 165, 75 or 85 I wouldn't have made the suggestion. I have worked on atleast 50 of these transmissions.

Dan
 
#58 ·
I just dealt with this. Enlarge the bolt holes so you can get a sawzall in. Then cut around the inside of the rim. You will then be able to take the tire off unscathed. For the part stuck on the shaft, use an angle grinder. Cut right above the keyway. You will do no damage since if you go to deep you will be cutting the key - not the shaft. Once through, split it with a cold chisel.
 
Discussion starter · #59 · (Edited)
Some more great ideas guys:thanku:

FYI.... 3 wheels are off ( and came off) with little problem.

It has never failed with Murphy's Law the last one of anything is the tough one !!!!!!!:banghead3

We stopped pounding for fear of hurting the transmission. I suggested he put it temporarily back together to see if we already did any damage. ( this fact will dictate the next step. SEE PIC BELOW) :praying::praying::praying:

DDogg drill it out how ?? We thought of that but not sure how to proceed !!:fing20:

Image
 
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KATT
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