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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Steve Urquell said:
Someone else on here had problems with the deck lift switch and I think Sergeant had to have his PTO clutch replaced under warranty with <10hrs.

I kept having surging issues until I switched to non-ethanol gas then that cleared up.
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New spark plugs fixed my surging. My switch is still acting up so I'll probably just try a new switch. The switch internal components are spot less but it continues to self engage itself. I may try tightening up the internal switch spring and see what happens.
 
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#22 ·
Mudyapster said:
New spark plugs fixed my surging. My switch is still acting up so I'll probably just try a new switch. The switch internal components are spot less but it continues to self engage itself. I may try tightening up the internal switch spring and see what happens.
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That switch is stupid priced at $42. Wonder if it could be replaced with a marine 3 position $6 rocker?

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
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#24 ·
Discussion starter · #25 ·
The CC switch actually has a seal in it to keep dirt out and the contacts on mine were clean and dry. The was some dirt on the opposite side of the seal outside of the switch contact area which wouldn't hurt anything. I think the internal return switch spring is worn or weak now with use. I'm going to stretch it to give it more tension and see what happens.
 
#26 ·
Mudyapster said:
The CC switch actually has a seal in it to keep dirt out and the contacts on mine were clean and dry. The was some dirt on the opposite side of the seal outside of the switch contact area which wouldn't hurt anything. I think the internal return switch spring is worn or weak now with use. I'm going to stretch it to give it more tension and see what happens.
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Hope it works for you. (y)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
If not I'll find an aftermarket auto return switch that'll work. I use this same size switch in my buggy that stay wet and muddy and have never failed yet in 9 years of use. So there are better alternatives out there. OEM tries to split between cheap between reliable to save a buck.
 
#28 ·
Mudyapster said:
If not I'll find an aftermarket auto return switch that'll work. I use this same size switch in my buggy that stay wet and muddy and have never failed yet in 9 years of use. So there are better alternatives out there. OEM tries to split between cheap between reliable to save a buck.
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The CC switch probably costs them all of $3. $42 is a gigging. Same as they do with 1 plastic bushing for $5 that costs $3 for 5 if you search out the size.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Ok I removed the switch and took it apart. The switch was totally clean since I had already cleaned it previously. I took the switch apart and removed the self centering plunger and spring. I increased the length of the spring by a few millimeters by stretching it. I reassembled the switch and installed it back into the switch position on the fender. Fired up the XT3GSX and played with the switch raising and lowering the deck several time and it appears to be working fine now. Then a flash flooding rain opened up again. Ran into the house. LOL When the rain quits later today I'll ride around on the XT3GSX and see if it acts up again. I bet the spring tension was the issue but we'll see in time
 
#34 ·
Mudyapster said:
Ok I removed the switch and took it apart. The switch was totally clean since I had already cleaned it previously. I took the switch apart and removed the self centering plunger and spring. I increased the length of the spring by a few millimeters by stretching it. I reassembled the switch and installed it back into the switch position on the fender. Fired up the XT3GSX and played with the switch raising and lowering the deck several time and it appears to be working fine now. Then a flash flooding rain opened up again. Ran into the house. LOL When the rain quits later today I'll ride around on the XT3GSX and see if it acts up again. I bet the spring tension was the issue but we'll see in time
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Sounds like a good theory, so hopefully it works.
 
#35 ·
I took another look at CC parts page. They show the switch and list the price. wow.
Other sources have a similar price. Roughly 38 - 48 depending. Cheap sob that I am I've gotta do better. Amazon had 12v momentary contact switches that look to be same size but the pin-out on the switch and connector has got to be a match.
Wish you had posted some shots of the switch and connector.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
The switch removal from the fender only takes a few seconds to remove, it just pop right out after you unplug the electrical connector.
The pin pattern setup isn't in a straight line so all those switches you find you'll need to look at the switch terminal blade pattern to make sure it'll fit the Cub OEM connector or you could splice in a whole new connector that matches the aftermarket switch. It is still raining here or I'd take a pic of the switch for you. My switch seems to be working good now that I stretched the spring to increase the spring tension.
 
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#37 ·
I have the afternoon free today so I'll check mine and see if I can get some pics.
When ours won't work I've taken to push the switch up from under the fender and then reseat it from the top. (Don't know what that means, and maybe stretching the spring will help us too.) But I've never had the switch completely out
 
#38 ·
Ok it looks like an Eaton 1807 on/off/on, momentary contact. I think that's a single pole, double throw, think.
Anyway the tickler is the 45* contacts on the 2 corners. But only a single row of contacts. The CC diagram only says to install the switch with the contacts toward the mower body.
To get to the spring I'd have to drill out the rivet. Ugh.
Pictures next.
 
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ChuckT
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