I've seen various folks over the years show off their snowblower storage strategies. When it's time to change seasons, usually wind up raising mine up off the garage concrete floor with a few pieces of wood. I've seen folks use pallets. I'm looking for a better solution for the 47" blower on my x534. Thanks!
Snowblower storage thoughts
RGrizzzz
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I've seen various folks over the years show off their snowblower storage strategies. When it's time to change seasons, usually wind up raising mine up off the garage concrete floor with a few pieces of wood. I've seen folks use pallets. I'm looking for a better solution for the 47" blower on my x534. Thanks!
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448 Posts
I do mmy 42" SS on pallets in the backyard inside one of those Shelterlogic sheds. Keeps the water off it and works well. Sadly I dont have enough room in the two bay garage to keep it stored. I spray it down with lithium grease to prevent rusting, its been good to me for the 5 years I have had it.
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1,498 Posts
Easy keep mine on a harbor freight dolly. Keep it in my shed in summer, I have to get something and snowblower in the way, just roll it out of the way ( in fact even wife can move it) when it comes time to put snow blower on, just roll it into position, drive tractor up to it and snap it on snowblower front bracket-- takes all of 5 min for me to put snowblower on my X590
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-In-x-12-In-1000-Lbs-Capacity-Hardwood-Dolly-63098.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-In-x-12-In-1000-Lbs-Capacity-Hardwood-Dolly-63098.html
Does the HF dolly slide under the blower when it's lifted all the way up? I know the height of the blower isn't amazingly high in it's fullest height position?
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10,548 Posts
Mine is on a pallet. Could add wheels I guess, but I have a pallet jack that works. I touch up any areas where paint is gone... paint is NOT pristine after probably 30 years. I’ve only had it for one year now though. Lite or sili spray contacting surfaces (chute rotation). Grease all fittings. Store inside.
https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...s-carts-dollies/30-in-x-18-in-1000-lbs-capacity-polypropylene-dolly-69566.html: says its 5 1/4" high. The other ones HF sells are similar. Isn't the lift height of the 47 snowblower only 4"? You would probably need to drive up on blocks then.
They sell smaller casters, https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...casters/1-5-8-eighth-inch-x-7-8-eighth-inch-light-duty-swivel-caster-41519.html, you could replace the 3" ones on that dolly and that might get you to the right height?
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1,780 Posts
Check this out. Superior Tech recently came out with a pair of dollies for the 47" and 54" JD blowers. I bought a set for my 54" blower and they work great. They take up a lot less room compared with the wood platform with casters I was using.
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855 Posts
My situation is a little bit different since I have an LA-series so the blower has arms that attach about mid-tractor. I also built a dolly from scrap 2x4's and some casters I had laying around but I have to block up the blower about 5" once it's off the tractor and then tilt it 90* up on to the dolly so the arms stand straight up. Easy to move into a corner of the garage.
These look perfect, but $100?!?!?!
https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Snow-Blower-Storage-Dollies-LP70692.html
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4,714 Posts
Me too.
Buy some decent casters and make a dolly. Easy to put on and off and roll into the corner for storage.:tango_face_wink:
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802 Posts
Another HB/Menards dolly user. Least expensive way to move that big blower around, also the cheapest way to get 4 decent casters if you want to design your own dolly.
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84 Posts
Lets talk about the typical chassis first. Place a thin piece of plastic over the gas cap if the tank was left with gas in it last season ( which is not recommended). Now ( 2 Stage blowers) tilt the blower up on the front housing with the handles in the air. Some units need a block of wood under the upper horizontal housing lip to insure the center of gravity on the uprighted unit will balance steady so work in the transmission can proceed safely. Now take off the bottom panel and clean out all debris. If any chains exist, use bar and chain oil slightly on it so no migration of lube gets on the metal perpendicular driven surface for the wheel drive system. Run the shifter back and forth and see the hex shaft path that the drive system runs on. This often needs a very very very light smear of lube on it. If you do not have typical heavy grease, then use vaseline very lightly after first cleaning the surface from any rust or caking. Shift thru the range of "Gears" several times. Now look for a collected glob of grease at the edge of the hex bearing that slides on the hex shaft and remove these globs so that on first engine spin of the saft this glob does not get thrown on the driven metal surface. Now inspect the entire circumference of the rubber disc. If any damage or is worn down low, it must be replaced for the drive to work. At the least, insure as the handle operator to depress the rubber against the perpendicular metal driven surface. it is firm and that a reasonable stretch of the spring is present at full handle travel. Adjust the cable as necessary. Lastly, clean the metal driven surface and the rubber drive ring of any lube so that the rubber will drive on the surface. I typically remove the belt cover before raising the unit in the air and try and start it and look for symptoms. Even if no symptoms are detected, I strongly recommend this bottom system check up. As far as the engine goes, I leave that to the many engine discussions over the years as to what to do.:tango_face_grin:
Paid the green tax today. Should be here in a few days. Other feedback I've read looks good. I'll share my thoughts once I take the blower off. It will likely be MUCH earlier this year, than the past few.
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