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SLR_Will

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You can always put the rings on a scrap piece of wood and drill them out. I've done that numerous times.

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Same thing I do just start out with a small drill and work your way up to the size you need. A large drill bit first could catch and twist the ring terminal.
 
The whole idea is to have a quick connect for a "float charger ". Connect and forget. Not really. I had one connected to my truck when I was recovering from foot surgery. No weight bearing for 4 months. Truck started right up. Pulled power for injectors before turning over to allow oil to be pumped up. Then reconnected injectors and started her up.

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I've got the rings that came with the battery tender plus on my X754 and my 1025R. No mods needed. With the battery tender plus you can also get longer quick connect cables. I've used them when I don't have an outlet close, put the BT+ on the workbench and string the cable to almost anywhere in the shed.

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Why not just change the ring connectors to larger ones? Auto parts stores and even Walmart would have these.

Mike
 
Put the bolts that hold the battery cables in place through the rings as if the rings were washers. The rings are way too small to put directly on the battery posts.
 
I was looking to hook up a battery maintainer to the 216 after keeping it on the charger. These come with small rings that don't quite work with the top post battery I have in the 216. I'm wondering how people hook these up.

Here's an example
https://www.batterychargers.com/en/...roducts/accessories/wm-12-ring-connection-cable-1562a-battery-chargermaintainer

The rings look too small to be useful, but there's always a way now, isn't there?
I didn't have a problem fitting this harness to my garden tractor and larger CUT tractor batteries. The bolt for the battery clamp fit the loop terminal perfectly. If for some reason yours are different, just pick up a pack of larger rings at an auto parts store. Cut the old ones off and crimp or solder the new ones on. You shouldn't lose more than about 1/2 of the existing wire length.
 
I use an "add a tap" across a non-switched fuse. https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-function-Littelfuse-FHA200BP-fuses/dp/B009K6ZH6W

That means that I can cut the lead (save that fuse holder) Add whatever size fuze to protect my charger as I need, and I run the ground to whatever nearby ground there is.

That way I don't have junk by the battery and I can put the charger connector somewhere more convenient - you can also use that to plug in a cigarette socket for a phone charger. I have that on a magnetic base cup holder and move it between equipment.
 
I realize that I'm tired from shoveling, but if any of you guys could post pics of your actual setups, that would help tremendously.

Mike
 
This video might help. You can see how the guy connected the ring terminals to a car battery starting at 1:30 in the video. He takes the nut off the retaining bolt, puts the ring terminal on the bolt, and then puts the nut back on.

 
Now I'm with you, thanks. That video makes it extremely clear!

The key point is that Will (OP) has a battery with round posts like a car, not a typical lawn tractor battery, with those bolt-through rectangular posts.

Mike
 
Now I'm with you, thanks. That video makes it extremely clear!

The key point is that Will (OP) has a battery with round posts like a car, not a typical lawn tractor battery, with those bolt-through rectangular posts.

Mike
But a battery with top posts will have a cable clamp held on with a bolt and it is that bolt that you put the battery tender rings on.

Rob
 
Right, that was the value of the video.

Mike
 
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