Got a SS 15 that was in pieces. Have worked on and off for a couple of years putting it together. Previous owner replaced the points system with a coil from a newer 10 or 12 hp briggs engine. Had good fire and ran well but now this coil has no fire. Saw somewhere on this site that a magnetron could be installed but the flywheel would need to be repolarized. Can anyone give details on this or tell me what the best optiions would be. Also picked up another ss15 this week and want to get rid of the points on it. Thanks for any help.
SS 15 problem
edgesr
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Got a SS 15 that was in pieces. Have worked on and off for a couple of years putting it together. Previous owner replaced the points system with a coil from a newer 10 or 12 hp briggs engine. Had good fire and ran well but now this coil has no fire. Saw somewhere on this site that a magnetron could be installed but the flywheel would need to be repolarized. Can anyone give details on this or tell me what the best optiions would be. Also picked up another ss15 this week and want to get rid of the points on it. Thanks for any help.
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:Welcome1: Now you just have to show us pictures! Someone will be along to help you, like those old SS tractors.
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I bought the Briggs Magnetron upgrade kit and installed it on the 10hp mill in my 10/6. Had to splice some wires, but there was no flywheel repolarization required. There's a trigger coil that clips onto the magneto armature to sense flywheel position. Mine works well, but the governor is messed up. I don't have access to a 15hp Briggs engine, so I can't really compare to what you have.
I removed the points from this engine because that fibrous plunger that rides on the cam was toast, and the guide was all wheedled out. When these items wear, engine oil can slop up through the guide hole and burn onto the points contact surfaces. Unfortunately, you have to pop the flywheel off to inspect (on this engine, at least.) If the points get gunked up, you'll have no spark.
Another thing to check - make sure you have good grounds through the entire ignition system. This same 10/6 had spark problems because the coil mounting posts had gotten corroded. The mounting posts are used as the ground return path. Similarly, if there isn't a ground strap from the engine block to the battery, they're using the engine-to-frame connection as a ground return. If the starter spins well, it's likely that the engine block is grounded well.
Finally, make sure the ignition control wires didn't get mouse-chewed or grabbed by the flywheel. If you think you have a weak spark issue, pull the plug and crank with no compression. The magneto will throw a hotter spark if the motor is turning faster.
I removed the points from this engine because that fibrous plunger that rides on the cam was toast, and the guide was all wheedled out. When these items wear, engine oil can slop up through the guide hole and burn onto the points contact surfaces. Unfortunately, you have to pop the flywheel off to inspect (on this engine, at least.) If the points get gunked up, you'll have no spark.
Another thing to check - make sure you have good grounds through the entire ignition system. This same 10/6 had spark problems because the coil mounting posts had gotten corroded. The mounting posts are used as the ground return path. Similarly, if there isn't a ground strap from the engine block to the battery, they're using the engine-to-frame connection as a ground return. If the starter spins well, it's likely that the engine block is grounded well.
Finally, make sure the ignition control wires didn't get mouse-chewed or grabbed by the flywheel. If you think you have a weak spark issue, pull the plug and crank with no compression. The magneto will throw a hotter spark if the motor is turning faster.
Thanks much for the quick replys. Mrwiglles2, will post some pics soon and I love these old tractors also.
Migraineman, thanks for the info about the Magnetron upgrade kit. The info on the site, if I read it correctly, says that the kit is not to be used with motors below type 500. My engines type is 0139-01. Doesn't look like it will work. I did find the replacement coil for original on the site. Now I need to find out how to eliminate the points and condensor, so, I'm still seeking help. The complete engine number is 325431-0139-01-711019. Thanks to all for your help.
Migraineman, thanks for the info about the Magnetron upgrade kit. The info on the site, if I read it correctly, says that the kit is not to be used with motors below type 500. My engines type is 0139-01. Doesn't look like it will work. I did find the replacement coil for original on the site. Now I need to find out how to eliminate the points and condensor, so, I'm still seeking help. The complete engine number is 325431-0139-01-711019. Thanks to all for your help.
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edgesr,i have a ss-15 and rebuilt the briggs about 8- years ago,converted it to the magnatron,it comes as a unit,you dont need the original coil or points.remove the points keep the rod in there or it will leak oil and keep the cover on like normal.the pickup wires like the coil it replaces. the flywheel does have to be repolerized or it will not fire on every revelution.i sent mine to briggs and they did it free of charge you pay postage.dont know if they still do or not.its been 8 years and not a problem,and no points to adjust.
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A Stens "Mega-fire" could be used to replace points, but you will still need to have a good points-type magneto.
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Yea really, half the motors I have around here have points.
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Every small engine has a magneto,IF the coil uses NO battery to make the spark,and magnets in the flywheel are used instead..if an engine has a car type coil and a battery,then it does not have a magneto..some tractors do have batteries and electric start,but still use a magneto for the ignition ..
Those little "points eliminator" modules only do just that,eliminate the points,or by-pass them would be a better term,because the points usually must stay in the magneto so oil wont leak out of the little hole the plunger sits in that operates them..they are simply dissconnected and taken out of the circuit..you must have a GOOD original point type igniton coil for the module to work,and depending on how the coil is wound,you might need to reverse the connections on the module for it to work right..
If I had a tractor with points and a battery & electric start and it had a bad coil,I think I would convert it to use a car coil,powered off the battery instead,if the magneto coil was too costly, or hard to find..it would entail changing the wiring and possibly a different ignition switch ,since a magneto ignition needs a ground to sut off the spark,the car coil needs the circuit opened instead..you could use a toggle switch just to cut power to the car coil and retain the original key switch too..
Those little "points eliminator" modules only do just that,eliminate the points,or by-pass them would be a better term,because the points usually must stay in the magneto so oil wont leak out of the little hole the plunger sits in that operates them..they are simply dissconnected and taken out of the circuit..you must have a GOOD original point type igniton coil for the module to work,and depending on how the coil is wound,you might need to reverse the connections on the module for it to work right..
If I had a tractor with points and a battery & electric start and it had a bad coil,I think I would convert it to use a car coil,powered off the battery instead,if the magneto coil was too costly, or hard to find..it would entail changing the wiring and possibly a different ignition switch ,since a magneto ignition needs a ground to sut off the spark,the car coil needs the circuit opened instead..you could use a toggle switch just to cut power to the car coil and retain the original key switch too..
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