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update to 2305 dead help!!!!

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7.7K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  wally2q  
#1 ·
ok here is what i found and im fairly certain the battery is still good. i took off the cover where the ignition and brake cable is and revealed a handful of relays. there is 2 relays side by side on the right hand side if ur sitting at the seat directly down from the brake latch when i turn the key to the on position those 2 relays make a very funny noise almost like a buzzer going off if u feel them they are also vibrating then after about 5 sec or so they will stop and then nothing to me there is an issue with the relays not functioning properlt my guess is the contacts inside are bad from my experience of repairing appliances bad relays are a very common item anybodys thoughts? also anybody know where i can find a wiring diagram for this 2305 thanks
 
#6 ·
Battery...that being said...;)

Starter Will Not Work

Loose or corroded battery connections.

Blown fuse.

Low battery output - check electrolyte level.


Neutral start switch faulty or not adjusted properly - See your JohnDeere Dealer.

Key switch or starter faulty - See your JohnDeere Dealer.

Range transmission lever not in neutral position.

PTO engaged.

The electrical schematic is ONLY available in the Technical Manual...
 
#10 ·
i just find it hard to believe the battery just outright died whenit was working fine the day before the load tester said it was good i tested the water in each cell with a very expensive cell tester charger says its fully charged and what makes it hard for me is that it started working fine again for a while and now its back to that way it was when the problem started. if the battery was truly bad how could of it started to work again out of nowhere plus all the tests are good?
 
#12 ·
My charger says my two dead batteries in the garage are fully charged. You can't go by what a charger tells you. A battery can die in one day. Especially if you use the heck out of it the day before. If you can jump it and it works, your only two real choices for a problem are the battery or alternator.

I haven't looked at the relays you are talking about but could they be attached to the glowplug circuit? If so, that could explain why they buzz for a little bit then stop.
 
#15 ·
i just find it hard to believe the battery just outright died whenit was working fine the day before

Batteries sometimes have intermittent short between plates. They wont work one day, and will work the next.... as the shorting sediment on the bottom moves around.
I just replaced a battery in my SUV that according to the "green eye" says it's OK... but it will hold enough charge for about 10 minutes of interior-lights run time... then it's dead. Yes - it tested fine on a tester too.
All those half-a$$ so-called battery testers are crap!.... a real battery tester costs $500-$1000 and takes 10 minutes minimum to test a battery


Put a volt meter on the battery when it's happening. Anything less than 11V at the battery terminals, and you've got one or more than one dead cells.

If the battery voltage is good, put the same volt meter on the starter terminal. Anything less than 10V and you have bad / dirty connections.

It's that simple.

BTW: 12V DC relays DO-NOT humm, or rattle, or buzz. You may get fast clicking (if the battery voltage goes up and down, due to weak battery or bad contact) - or else you hear nothing at all. Appliance relays buzz, because they run off AC power with a diode (30Hz half-wave rectifier) - when it buzzes you are hearing hte 30Hz.... but there ain't no AC in a battery powered tractor.
 
#17 ·
I like the idea that someone posted in your other thread: exchange batteries with one of your cars. If the tractor starts working (and especially of the car stops), then you know you have a bad battery.

Give the battery swap a try... if for no other reason than to keep us from constantly suggesting it :)

If the tractor still acts up, then make a temporary ground cable and give it a try. Next, a temporary positive cable.

Good luck!
 
#19 ·
keep in mind that if you have an "intermittent" dead cell or two, you may load test the battery and it will be fine.... and the next day, it will play-dead again....

best thing to do is to measure the battery voltage... on the battery... while the problem is happening. There is no magic or tricks to it. You will get a 100% definitive answer as to whether the battery is dead-or-alive...