[kyavion]

I reassembled the carb with new a needle valve and seat, as well as a new seat gasket, nozzle gasket, main adjusting retainer gasket and packing, and clamshell gasket. Float is set at 5/16” per the CCKA manual. Prior to assembly, I also sanded the base a little since it wasn’t flat.

When I went to fasten the carb to the manifold, I realized that the female threads are stripped out on the carb bottom for one of the two bolts. I remember the carb being loose when I unfastened it from the manifold, but I just thought it hadn’t been tightened down properly by the previous owner. Since the threads are mostly absent, I guess I’ll just drill it out and use a longer bolt and a nylok.

 

[dave_r]

You can also probably heli-coil it, particularly if it's not easy to get at a nut on the backside of the manifold. If it's an aluminum manifold, a steel helicoil winds up being stronger than the original threads.

 

[kyavion]

You can also probably heli-coil it, particularly if it's not easy to get at a nut on the backside of the manifold. If it's an aluminum manifold, a steel helicoil winds up being stronger than the original threads.

That was my original thought actually, until I saw the kit for a 1/4-20 helicoil is around $25. There’s some off brands on Amazon for around $15, but I don’t know about the quality.

I think I can get a nut in there. In this case the bolt goes up through the manifold and into the carb. Yes, the entire manifold has to be removed to access the carb bolts on the ccka.

 

[kyavion]

Looking at the wiring on this 816, the ground is 4 AWG and the starter wire appears to be 6 AWG. Is 6 AWG sufficient? My other 816 has 4 AWG for both.

 

[3/4-wrench]

Depends on how many amps it draws , 4 is good for about 150 A, 6 about 115A.

 

[kyavion]

I was trying to see if I could make out the info on the Onan CCKA starter, but it’s too difficult to read.

I don’t see why someone would have replaced the wire with a smaller size at some point. However, 6 AWG does seem small.

 

[kyavion]

Specs for aftermarket starters for an Onan CCKA say .8 KW, which at 12v is just 66.67 amps. Unless my math is wrong or I am overlooking something (which I might be), the amp draw is much lower than I expected.

 

[3/4-wrench]

Specs for aftermarket starters for an Onan CCKA say .8 KW, which at 12v is just 66.67 amps. Unless my math is wrong or I am overlooking something (which I might be), the amp draw is much lower than I expected.

Your math is correct.

 

[kyavion]

I haven’t had much time lately, so things have been moving slowly. New points are installed, and I replaced the small flat head screws with #8-32 x 3/8 socket head screws to make adjustments easier.

The breather tube wasn’t quite snug enough, so I cleaned it up and applied a little retaining compound. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and tachometer, as well as a little dash light to illuminate the oil pressure gauge at night. I need to add another light for the tachometer, and will do the same to light up the shifter plate a little.

 

[kyavion]

These seat pan springs need replaced. Anyone have a link to a suitable replacement?

 

[kyavion]

From what I’ve been told, the seat pan spring is the same part as an L/C engine valve spring. I didn’t have much luck locating the parts online, but did luck out and find a couple complete assemblies (springs with caps and pins) on eBay. I’m sure I could have cobbled something together, but for the price and the time saved the factory arrangement seemed the best way to go.

 

[kyavion]

I had a few minutes to spare, so I got the seat spring assemblies installed and a solenoid for the starter installed under the gear shifter panel. I used 1/4-20 u-nuts for the solenoid so the same fasteners that are used for the gear shifter plate and the hood are used for the solenoid. That way, swapping out a replacement in the field is a bit easier if need be.

I also used some 3/8-24 couplings and all-thread with a little retaining compound, cut a couple spacers, etc., and installed the G series shifter levers. I found the original shifters a little wonky, and this way the PTO will also be engaged when pushing the lever toward the front of the tractor. If anyone else decides to upgrade to the G series shifter levers, keep in mind you’ll need to drill a new hole for the linkage in the hi-low lever that matches the placement of the original shifter hole, otherwise the travel for the lever will be very small.

 

[kyavion]

Awhile back I was having some carb issues with my other 816, so I swapped the manifold with the rebuilt carb from this tractor to my other 816. While I was at it, I also made a spacer for each carb to help with heat. Today, I cleaned up the nozzle, ports, etc., and installed a new needle valve and seat, new gaskets, etc on the carb I was having trouble with. Below are a couple pics of the spacer with the carb installed on the manifold.

This 816 will see periods when it won’t get any use—potentially 3 months or more without being run. I plan on using ethanol free fuel to avoid carb issues as much as possible. During periods when the tractor won’t be run, would it be best to run the carb dry? If so, should anything be sprayed inside the carb to help prevent the gaskets from drying out?

 

[MARK (LI)]

If you do use gas that is free of ethanol, you really should not have any worries.....but it would not hurt to run it dry

 

[kyavion]

Thanks. I was hoping that would be the case. I guess a few months in between use probably isn’t long enough for the seals to dry up?

BTW, when cleaning this carb up, the port that goes to the venturri was completely clogged up. The other ports were fine, and surprisingly, the nozzle was OK too.

 

[Bodjick L]

Awhile back I was having some carb issues with my other 816, so I swapped the manifold with the rebuilt carb from this tractor to my other 816. While I was at it, I also made a spacer for each carb to help with heat. Today, I cleaned up the nozzle, ports, etc., and installed a new needle valve and seat, new gaskets, etc on the carb I was having trouble with. Below are a couple pics of the spacer with the carb installed on the manifold.


View attachment 2648761

View attachment 2648763


This 816 will see periods when it won’t get any use—potentially 3 months or more without being run. I plan on using ethanol free fuel to avoid carb issues as much as possible. During periods when the tractor won’t be run, would it be best to run the carb dry? If so, should anything be sprayed inside the carb to help prevent the gaskets from drying out?

Why is heat such a problem on the intake manifold? Is the exhaust run right by it? It seems it looks like it gets pretty hot by the lack of paint on the one end.

 

[kyavion]

The exhaust runs right over top of the manifold.

The bottom of each carb was warped, so I thought the spacer would help to insulate the carb mounting flange. Also, fuel inside the carb bowl seemed to be simmering in the heat of the summer, so I figured a spacer could help with that as well.

Good observation about the paint. A plate that holds the original 6v coil, as well as the throttle cable bracket and governor bracket, mounts on the right side of the manifold, so that’s partly the reason why paint is missing on one side.

 

[Bodjick L]

The exhaust runs right over top of the manifold.

The bottom of each carb was warped, so I thought the spacer would help to insulate the carb mounting flange. Also, fuel inside the carb bowl seemed to be simmering in the heat of the summer, so I figured a spacer could help with that as well.

Good observation about the paint. A plate that holds the original 6v coil, as well as the throttle cable bracket and governor bracket, mounts on the right side of the manifold, so that’s partly the reason why paint is missing on one side.

What engine is that? I assume stock, but I don’t know what it is.

 

[Bodjick L]

Maybe I should have read the title of your thread! Haha

 

[kyavion]

No worries. I didn’t recall that I had listed CCKA in the title either.