I would recommend doing a simple "Gravely" search on ebay and then scrolling through the sort. You could search "Gravely seat pan" but someone may be selling one and not calling it a seat pan - say seatpan instead.

You might get an idea of the asking price that way and do some comparing. What is your tractor? Maybe asking in this thread and identifying your tractor may bring out someone who has a solid one they are willing to part with?

Good luck

 

How badly dinged up is it? I've had decent luck working with local welding shops to get things straightened that require more effort than my shop tools can support.

As one example: http://www.mytractorforum.com/24-gravely/1101033-rear-tiller-build.html

I took the tiller tine hubs shown in that post to a local shop to get them straightened with a press and it was $60.

It certainly can't hurt to get a quote.

Good luck!

Neil (jeepagain)

 

It's a 16 G Professional . Just like Sheldon's , but not as nice of condition . The hood , seat pan and mower deck all need sanded down and painted
The seat pan is the only thing that needs straighten out . While it's apart I'll be adding some of Sheldon's improvements . But this won't start until the snow flurries start this fall .

 

My body shop buddy and I straightened out this seat pan and steering wheel and replaced the seat.

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My body shop buddy and I straightened out this seat pan and steering wheel and replaced the seat.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I see you kept the ultra-custom grill...nice!:thThumbsU

How'd you do the straightening? I wrestled with a rear tiller shield that the p/o put a significant crease in. Unlike typical body panels, the shield is thicker and was a challenge for sure. Eventually got it straight, but the leftover hammer dings tell me there was probably a better way!

 

We strapped it down to the runway beam on his 4 post drive on car lift and worked it over with several prybars and hammers. You are going to have hammer marks. You can either leave them or do the body work to smooth them out and paint it.

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WOW ! Nice body work . Mine isn't terrible , but looking down edges that should be straight , there are curves . When looking at the tractor from behind , the right sags about an inch . It looks like it was lightly backed into something on both sides where the reflectors used to be . Not terrible , just tweaked . That's why I'm thinking a body shop could possibly straighten it for a reasonable price . I hope anyway .

BTW , that's a very cool grill guard ! Decorative & protective front end weight ! I like it !:thThumbsU

 

The sag to the right when viewed from the rear is common on all Gravelys, but most pronounced or at least noticeable on 400/800 tractors. It is the fault of the small prop that holds the seat pan open. It supports all that weight on just one side. Over time, the seat pan assumes a permanent sag to the right when viewed from the rear.

 

Holy Moses ! And it now looks like the FIRST PICTURE ? AWESOME !

 

Seems I remember that now I see those pictures! Yikes.

 

I would leave the pan attached to the tractor. Prop it up on the right side with a 4x4 that gives you 3 or 4 inches of lift off of the support rests. Then gently push down on the left rear corner checking often so as not to over do it. Just a thought.

 

I thought maybe that prop might be the cause . Propping up the right side is a great idea . I'll have to give it a shot . I understand to take it easy . Just a little pressure at a time . The straight edges aren't so straight anymore . Like the edges where the reflectors used to be . I was thinking a 14 inch piece of 2x6 on the outside and rap it with a deadblow hammer from the underside . Then maybe a smaller piece at the reflector area . I'm not a auto body guy by an stretch of the word . So any suggestions are greatly appreciated . Thanks .

 

On the smaller bent areas try placing a hammer on the back side and gently tapping with another hammer to get the desired effect. Slow and steady is the key here. Once you have it looking the way you want it you can use a skim coat of body filler (bondo) to fill in any small imperfections and hammer marks. It takes some trial and error but you will feel good when you get done and it will come in handy on that next Gravely restore.

 

Thanks Wolverinenc . I'll give it a shot .

 

This sounds like a project for painless dent repair once the metal is basically straight and square. Watch some videos on PDR. The real obstacle is wetting it up so that it doesn't move while working on it. If you want to get something like that done cheap, take it to a PDR class and ask the instructor about using that hood as a training example. The students couldn't possibly make it worse than it is.

If may be possible that due to the thickness, it is not a candidate for PDR. If so, then you are back to doing it the old fashioned way with hammers, slippers, etc.

 

I'll be sanding down and repainting the pan , hood and deck . So paintless repair isn't necessary . The most painful part is excepting the price of new decals . Man , those are pricey ! I even checked with a local graphics shop . Basically the same price as as replacements . I may see if the body shop has a free hand painter that could paint them on .:dunno:

 

You've got a really good candidate for a dress up. Neither of my gravelys look that good.

 

Getting dents out is called panel beating. The reality is, it is far better thought of as panel tapping. You'll be amazed at how a few taps can float dents out. Creases are a different matter. They take real skill.

Good luck!

 

Thanks Wolverinenc . I'm almost ashamed to admit I got it for $500.00 . The dealership meant to sell me a 8163 that was not even running . They realized their mistake the day I went to pick it up , but since it needed quite a bit of ( hydraulics , engine and deck ) work , they decided to stick to the deal anyway . I realized it after I got it home and called them back to tell them . I didn't want to have a bunch of money in it when they decided to come back after it . They said if I still wanted it , they would stick to the deal . IF I STILL WANTED IT ???????? I prayed I'd find a dependable mower before the hydrostatic gave up on my current mower . raying:God delivered 10 fold !!!!!!!!!!:swow:

 

Say Dad, Just point me to it if it's posted in some one of your threads, but I sure would enjoy seeing some pictures of your Gravely ride.:thThumbsU

 

If you're willing to try then harbor freight has a decent body and fender set for $35. Grab a coupon off their website and get it a little cheaper.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/auto-body/body-and-fender-set-7-pc-63259.html

I wouldn't say they are industrial quality but they are good for a hobbyist.

 

Yikes ! Me a body man ? Devans , I'm going to try some quotes from body shop first . I picture me causing more damage than I already have . If I have no other choice , I will ask around work to see if someone could coach me on doing it correctly .

CanaryAl , I'll try to get some pics up today if I get done helping Grandma today before work . My tablets camera was accidentally in panaramic mode when I took those other pics of the tractor and hitch . I can do better in regular mode . I'm hoping after pics and Serial numbers someone can give me a year on the 16 G .

 

Harbor freight has those suction cups . I think they have a 150 lbs of grip . Very reasonable price . I picked up 2 a couple years ago just to have if I ever need them . But the cups on them are about 3-4 inches in diameter . To big for small dents .