I picked up 2 running and barely driving Cub 3240's 40th Anniversary Garden Tractors a couple months back for $1000. One had a 48" deck and the other had a 54" deck. One had a little over 500 hours and the other had almost 800 hours on it. One smoked so bad, I thought I was spraying for mosquitoes! There wasn't enough there to restore both tractors, like I had planned on, so I'm focusing on building one, super nice one to mow my acre yard with. They loaded them on my 20" trailer with a freakin forklift, as the mowers ran, but went dead as soon as the parking brake was released... Anyway, here's what I started with.
My 3240 40th Anniversary Restore/Refresh Build Thread
Mirage775
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Actually, I don't like just the hood being off white. I thought about paint the side panels and grille white as well, but decided not too, per the wife, LOL!
You hope it will run and mow good???
After mowing with a 3K series tractor you'll never want to mow with any other kind of garden tractor!
That's not what I meant... When I start it up, I have to fiddle with the throttle to get it running worth a **** and I haven't had a chance to turn on the on the PTO yet, to see what the power transfer feels/sounds like.
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Yall ain't understanding what I'm saying... I hope the deck isn't damaged, cause if it is, the finished product won't look like that pic above. I hope there's nothing wrong with the engine, as when the PTO's engaged.
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That's one of the things I really like about a 3K, the E-VAC PTO engagement. It is so smooth, I actually can't tell when I engage it and there is no sound - no tortured squealing clutch sound. I know it's working when I see the snow 50' in the air!
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I have a 3204 with a 54" deck, when I engage the PTO I have no belt noise what so ever, and the engine does not lug down at all, it did when I first bought it 8 yrs ago but fixing all the little issues got it running like it should...I wouldn't trade mine for any other brand or year machine, the Hobbs meter broke long ago but Im sure it has around 900 hrs or more, I check the oil each time I mow ( 3+ acres), sharpen or replace blades when needed use a leaf blower under the hood and above the deck as needed ( never have taken a pressure washer or even a hose to it I just use a wet bath towel to clean the outside), change oil at the beginning of the season and once more during the season, change diff filter every 2 seasons, clean or replace air filter as needed and fuel filter every season or more if I suspect bad fuel...It uses very little if any oil between changes, and no leaks on floor...as you can tell I love ours !!
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Well said.I feel the same about my Gt3235 ?
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Sorry Oak. Seems like I'm getting off track with everything, that everyone's saying... Been sick for a week tomorrow, so my temper comes and goes... **** Alabama weather! I used to love to rebuild carbs, when I was younger! Do you know if there's a rebuild kit for the 3240 or if there's an upgraded carb available? I'm not ready, nor will I ever be ready, to spend almost $400 for a new one...
Also, did you buy that 3240 near you? If not, I'm seriously thinking about it =)
Jason, I didn't go look at it yet but I may this week. I'll let you know how it looks. Are you wanting the 54" deck?
The carb. Here are a few kits that I found.
OEM Kohler Carburetor Kit 2475703S, 24 757 03S, 24 757 03-S, 7-070009, CH18-25 87206459344 | eBay
Carburetor Repair Kit Replaces Kohler: 2475703-S
This is what I use to soak my carbs in before I rebuild them.
https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr.../products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/
The carb. Here are a few kits that I found.
OEM Kohler Carburetor Kit 2475703S, 24 757 03S, 24 757 03-S, 7-070009, CH18-25 87206459344 | eBay
Carburetor Repair Kit Replaces Kohler: 2475703-S
This is what I use to soak my carbs in before I rebuild them.
https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr.../products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/
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I wouldn't mind having a 54" deck, but unsure if I wanna put all the work and time into another deck, just to gain 6" of cutting width... Also, this is the part #KH-24-853-59-S, that I thought the stock carb was?
Thanks for those links, I'll check them out!
My 3240 that I use when I got it ran rough. I knew it was a carb issue and a good buddy who works on these for a living told me to just run, it or put some seafoam through it and run it. I did ad some seafoam to the gas and mowed a couple of times with it (I have a small yard) and the carb now acts like it should. It wouldn't want to idle before, and it surged some.
Yours probably like mine just needs ran. This new gas we have now with the 10% ethanol in it sucks!
Yours probably like mine just needs ran. This new gas we have now with the 10% ethanol in it sucks!
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As I was putting everything back together, cleaned the tank, ran new fuel line, new filter, new rubber grommet at fuel pick-up, etc., I added a full can of Seafoam.
I'll see how it runs after a tank of fuel has gone through it, before I even think about rebuilding the carb I was thinking about building my extra engine, but modifying it ie, shave heads, port intake/exhaust, etc. Just to do something different. I probably won't do anything, heh
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I also vote for sea foam...even after I rebuilt the carb twice ( each time it improved, but not to my satisfaction ), then I started adding a few ounces to each fill up...with the first tank I noticed a improvement...it started better setting the choke to about 75% along with the throttle at 50%, a few spins it fires right up, I go off choke in stages until its off 100%...I let it run for maybe 30 seconds go to full throttle...drive it from the garage to where my lawn is, turn on the PTO, the blades take off with no power drop from the motor..mow about 2 acres, shut down for fuel fill, again with a few ounces of Seafoam,restart with no choke and finish mowing, with shut down I let it idle for a few seconds at 25% throttle, it shuts down with no after run or backfiring. Before retiring I sold Auto Parts Wholesale, and sold a sh*t load of Seafoam to small engine repair shops and even Auto Dealerships, so I am a believer......And I have to use fuel with 10% ethanol as this is all that's available in my area.......
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Just an update, I haven't been able to work on the Cub for a while, had a major sinus infection that knocked me outta work for several days, then lingered around for a few weeks... I think I'm finally over it! Got a quote on new tires, installed at a local Goodyear dealer for $206 for all 4, so that'll probably get done after tax refund! Got a few parts in, while I was sick, that I need to get installed. Maybe this weekend, I'll be able to do a little bit. Not much left though. Soon, this thread will come to an end :tango_face_crying:
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I tried to go out to the shed and work on it a couple weeks ago, just to get outta the house and do something.... Getting to the shed was easy enough, but as soon as I tried to "work" on it, I felt terrible! I think I have to do some Mini-X demo work for my moms husband this Saturday, if it doesn't rain, but Sunday, I'll be able to work on knocking the old front end bushings out! Another month or so and it'll be time to mow the yard!
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I installed the hydraulic damper on the transmission today, as well as new bearings on the Hydraulic Neutral Return Plate. Jacked up the rear of the mower and threw some jackstands under it. Fired it up and checked my forward and reverse. Forward pedal is now super firm and it returns to neutral after you remove your foot from the pedal, (hence the new bearings). The reverse pedal, however does nothing now. When pushed with my foot, it "acts" like it wants to engage, then as you slowly push it down further, it looks like it "pops" or "slips" and goes to the floorboard, and the tires barely spin in reverse... If you pull up on the forward pedal, the tires spins in reverse very quickly, almost as fast as they do forward. I messed around with linkage adjustments, springs, lubed everything in the pedal linkages under the floorboards and still nothing. I'm running out of ideas on how to fix this one yall? I can buy everything new, but that's gonna be super expensive! If I can share my youtube page, I'll make a short video of what it's doing and throw it on here tomorrow afternoon.
Any help would be greatly appreciated?
I can always pull back the go pedal to go in reverse, but that kinda defeats the purpose. Maybe I should just finish it up and sell it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated?
I can always pull back the go pedal to go in reverse, but that kinda defeats the purpose. Maybe I should just finish it up and sell it?
You just need to crawl under it and look and see what is going on with the pedals. You can do this with the tractor off, and sitting on the ground. I am betting something isn't adjusted right. The reverse doesn't go as fast as the forward although I think if you did away with all the linkages and just grabbed the pump input it just might be as fast in both directions.
Don't loose heart just yet, it's something simple and you just gonna have to study it from underneath to figure it out.
I know I replaced my plastic bushings in my pedals at the beginning of the mowing year last year and by the end my reverse wasn't as fast as it once was. It doesn't take much wear to make reverse kind of slow, and pulling up on the pedal an option sometimes!
Don't loose heart just yet, it's something simple and you just gonna have to study it from underneath to figure it out.
I know I replaced my plastic bushings in my pedals at the beginning of the mowing year last year and by the end my reverse wasn't as fast as it once was. It doesn't take much wear to make reverse kind of slow, and pulling up on the pedal an option sometimes!
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