In the Texas box I've drawn up there.

 

The edge should be attached to the bottom with about 8 bolts. Look it over good, if you see weld marks something is not right.

 

In case anyone didn't know this edge is reversible. You will need 8-10 1/4 carriage bolts with lock washers and nuts. After you have the cutting edge installed and the nuts are tight you will want to cut off the rest of the bolts that protrude past the nut. This edge isn't a cheap piece, last I checked its around 45.00

 

You need part number M42481

It looks like its $40.25

 

Just had a chance to get out and look this thing over. Turns out a previous owner, instead of replacing the factory cutting edge, simply welded some 3/16" plate to the original edge, and adjusted the shoes for the added height.

He's also likely the guy that got tired of bolting the output chute arm to the tractor and just welded it to the blower bracket. The adjustment rod looks like an al dente noodle down there AND I have to get off the tractor to adjust the output. Grrr

Looks like I need a new cutting edge and a hydraulic motor to convert the output adjustment from manual to hydraulic. Just wish those motors weren't so expensive!

Thanks to all for the assistance.

I also think I'm missing #19 in the above drawing. I'm going to wind up tearing this whole thing down and rebuilding it. But once I get weight on the rear, I should be set forever at least!

 

SHELL
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. OR YEAR REMARKS
1 14H785 NUT 1 - XXXXXX 5/16"
E50102 LOCK NUT 1 XXXXXX - 3/8"
2 12H303 LOCK WASHER 7 5/16"
3 19H1936 CAP SCREW 3 3/8" X 3/4"
4 24H1308 WASHER 6 13/32" X 1" X 0.134"
5 AM31255 HOUSING 1 (INCLUDES M49813)
6 03H1268 BOLT 1 - XXXXXX 5/16" X 3/4"
10H1026 BOLT 1 XXXXXX - 3/8" X 1"
7 24H1136 WASHER 6 11/32" X 11/16" X 0.065"
8 19H1900 CAP SCREW 6 5/16" X 3/4"
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. OR YEAR REMARKS
9 M46530 RUNNER 2 (SUB FOR AM31235)
10 14H1076 NUT 3 3/8"
11 M42483 ANGLE 1
12 M42481 BLADE 1
13 M63707 LOCK NUT 10
14 03H1701 BOLT 8 1/4" X 3/4"
15 03H1729 BOLT 4 1/4" X 1"
16 14H786 NUT 4 1/4"
17 12H302 LOCK WASHER 4 1/4"
18A M42487 BLADE 1 - 537000 (A) (SUB M88984)
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. OR YEAR REMARKS
18B M88984 BLADE 1 537001 -
19 M42484 PLATE 1 (SUB M95030, 10H1026 AND N10215)

(A) WITH M42487, USE 03H1701 BOLT; USE 03H1729 BOLT WITH M88984.

 

#19 is optional. but I did put it on the #38 restoration. I bet it is the same one.
It was $25.00 but it takes a lot of the abuse. ( WOW a curved piece of flat steel ??)
It called for the same bolts for the blade. but they just barely fit but !! I had to clamp it down to get the nut on.

 

I figured it was there to close the gap between the auger and the shell at the very end to reduce push-out and increase discharge speed. It discharges "OK" but I'm certainly not impressed. It's nothing like some of the videos here and on youtube that I've seen!

 

Good point it probably helps that too, as well as, all the stuff has to go by that area first.
My #49 on my 318 did OK for a single stage and the auger was built like a tank.
My goal was to clear the snow, and with the drift blade and a 5 foot snow bank from a plow truck, it never failed in 22 years !!
how far it threw it, was of no consequence to me, as long as it threw it away !!

 

I'm sure its there because that is the highest wear spot on the entire shell and if they didn't make this serviceable then you would have to weld in a new plate every time it got worn out.

I think mine is due to be replaced but I will just bend up a new one. I guess I am just a cheap skate.:trink39:

 

# 19 is commonly referred to as the "striker" plate. This thick piece of steel is there as all the snow and debris is pulled to the middle by the auger and gets slammed up towards the chute. Anything in that area and be rammed hard by the paddles and caught in between the auger and the housing, it protects the housing!