after lookin at ur first pic..there should b a wire commin outta the cover.... however I don't see one... this tends to tell me that engine may have been switched over to the new electronic coil.. usin a lil round magnet installed in the flywheel.. u would have to take the flywheel tin off to see this..

 

Yeah there is nothing under that cover. I will pull the tin off the engine and see what's going on under there..

 

old engines like that one most of the time had a coil mounted on the outside of the tin... there was a capicator in line of the coil with a hotwire feedin the coil.. the points would form the ground when they closed.. this caused the spark to the plug.. the points under that lil tin cover need to b set a certain gap when open..

 

sounds to me like its been converted to electronic ignition a better thing no points to worry about

 

I didn't know you could convert these over to electronic ignition. So what goes wrong in an electronic ignition system?

 

would love to see a pic of engine with flywheel tin off... showin what they have under there.. I have herd there is a way they install a lil 1/4 inch round magnet in the flywheel & this triggers a set of electronic points in a lil module this power goes thro a coil assembly which makes high voltage for the plug.. herd they can get 60,000 volts like on cars today..

the set up is diff to the Magnetron upgrade .. which requires the flywheel to make the current for the spark.. they use live 12 volt from the battery for the new coil..

 

they burn out in time but they are good or bad no in between

 

If there's a Magnetron under the shroud, it requires at least 300 rpm to fire.

Also, there should be a small wire coming out of the shroud, when that wire touches ground, the engine will shut down.

The Briggs cast iron singles that had a Magnetron upgrade done requires the flywheel being sent to Briggs to have it repolarized. The engine will run rough if this has not been done.

 

The regulator goes on the inside of that panel however I am not sure that is the right regulator. It looks correct but there is no way to know what the specs are without knowing the part number ( should be on bottom)

 

Thanks for all the good info guys! One good thing about getting a new toy is you sure do learn a lot. I'm gonna try and make time tonight to get the tin off. Looks like I have to remove the driveshaft, screen, and the starter/generator pulley first?

 

BTW, can someone verify my engine number. There is a nice thick coat of paint on the engine tin but I think it reads 325431-0126-99, is this right?

 

from what I have seen of the engine... it looks like it may b an old B & S.. I am willin to bet they r right numbers... u can do a trace print to the numbers by takin a thin sheet of paper & lay over them...& use a #2 wood pencil to lightly cover the numbers.... they will come up in the trace sometimes.. it took me a few tries to do this... but once u get the hang of how hard to press the pencil down.. u can see them... this can also b done on the back side of the tin too