I had a strange electrical problem that I'd like to share...
As background - in the past year, I've replaced the starter (Used OEM from eBay) and it's been great. I had replaced the original starter with an aftermarket that lasted less than two years. Then I learned that the brushes, etc on the OEM starters (at least on the 3000) are part of a plate that can be replaced for something like $25. Look into this route if your starter starts to go.
Also, I was having a problem with the key falling out of the ignition switch. It's basically held in place with spring that "interferes" with the key and keeps it from falling out. My spring had worn out. The ignition switch was replaced and has worked great.
So I've been starting beautifully for the past year.
Yesterday, the machine cranks and starts right up and, as soon as I let the key snap back from 'start' to 'run', it dies. It does this a few times. I furrow my brow and say some magic words - and then it works. OK, I can't fix what isn't broken, so I set off to mow the lawn.
A few minutes later, the machine just dies. Same symptoms as before. As long as I'm on "crank", it runs, but dies if I let go of the key. Eventually, it won't even crank.
I'm thinking about the circuit and the fact that the starter and the ignition switch are pretty much new... hoping they won't be the problem.
I get out the repair manual and look at the circuitry, grab a volt meter and find out that there's very little voltage getting to the solenoid. There is voltage at the starter as long as the solenoid isn't engaged. Voltage at the battery is steady and strong.
Bottom line. This is a pretty easy problem. The positive battery cable, which had a replacement end, is no longer reliably carrying full current. As I was investigating, there were arcs between the battery post and the end. It wasn't loose enough to wiggle. I disassemble, clean and replace everything - and it's off to the races.
Just thought I 'd share. It seems that, in the absence of enormous current draw, the connection wouldn't conduct well. This one was weird and had me stumped until I got out the volt meter.
Hope this helps someone, someday.
As background - in the past year, I've replaced the starter (Used OEM from eBay) and it's been great. I had replaced the original starter with an aftermarket that lasted less than two years. Then I learned that the brushes, etc on the OEM starters (at least on the 3000) are part of a plate that can be replaced for something like $25. Look into this route if your starter starts to go.
Also, I was having a problem with the key falling out of the ignition switch. It's basically held in place with spring that "interferes" with the key and keeps it from falling out. My spring had worn out. The ignition switch was replaced and has worked great.
So I've been starting beautifully for the past year.
Yesterday, the machine cranks and starts right up and, as soon as I let the key snap back from 'start' to 'run', it dies. It does this a few times. I furrow my brow and say some magic words - and then it works. OK, I can't fix what isn't broken, so I set off to mow the lawn.
A few minutes later, the machine just dies. Same symptoms as before. As long as I'm on "crank", it runs, but dies if I let go of the key. Eventually, it won't even crank.
I'm thinking about the circuit and the fact that the starter and the ignition switch are pretty much new... hoping they won't be the problem.
I get out the repair manual and look at the circuitry, grab a volt meter and find out that there's very little voltage getting to the solenoid. There is voltage at the starter as long as the solenoid isn't engaged. Voltage at the battery is steady and strong.
Bottom line. This is a pretty easy problem. The positive battery cable, which had a replacement end, is no longer reliably carrying full current. As I was investigating, there were arcs between the battery post and the end. It wasn't loose enough to wiggle. I disassemble, clean and replace everything - and it's off to the races.
Just thought I 'd share. It seems that, in the absence of enormous current draw, the connection wouldn't conduct well. This one was weird and had me stumped until I got out the volt meter.
Hope this helps someone, someday.
