New blades are in, new spindles and deck reinforcement plates are on the way as are the four deck wheels. Lots of stress cracks were tended to today. I heard that high temp grease is required for zt units. True? I read about a unique deck wash system, too. And I found two fittings that look like quick connects. Air blasting shows they are through holes. Is there a unit that attaches to a garden hose to clip to these? Still trying to scare up an owners manual. So far it's an OtJT.

 

I did find a manual for this machine that also includes the deck info. Engine oil is freshened up, new spindles, reinforcements, blades and deck wheels. Are properly greased and lubed up. Runs great. There are two issues. The rear tires have different treads. The right is the typical Carlyle tread and seems to not have the best traction. Very easy to spin. I may swap them out next spring for better ones. That's where I need some suggestions. What kind of tread would work best for a ZT that's used on contoured ground?
The second issue is the tremendous amount of debris scattered from the deck. The spindle holes are so massive that there's a very, very large build up inside the end pulley covers. I see there are holes along the deck flange. Is there a debris guard for Cub ZT 50" deck? If not I was thinking of tire sidewall grade material attached to it to keep the tremendous amount of dust and grass clipping from spraying around. It has been a bit dry lately, there still are the weeds that like to poke up anyway. Yesterday was a challenge to see where I was going. Never had this issue before with any deck. Both, the machine and I were heavily covered. Air blasted most of it off before I got near the house. The blades are the kind with the notches in the wings. Could it be incorrect blade choice?
Thanks for any suggestions....

 

mrcaptainbob i have a 06 z force 50 bought new been a greaqt machine 23 kohler command runs like new forget the deck wash out selling gimmick but standard quick connect fitting wally worlld probly got one used mine one time made more mess than good as long as i cut dry grass stays fairly clean top of deck another story front wheels trow grass on deck air gun leaf blower take care of that mine has good bearings in them keep them greased good

 

Thanks, Forkz. Glad to know I'm not alone in this. I will be looking at installing some kind of shielding around the spindles at the deck. Just seems wrong to have the blades shoving that debris through those large deck holes. A winter time project...

 

Good luck with the Cadet ZTR Mrbob. Have had my 54" Cadet tractor with a 27 hp Kohler for 12 years now. Has done really great. My wife does persist to mow when it is too wet, so I try to clean deck. But, like the other guy said, it is probably best to just raise it up, and spray good with a hose and nozzle. I had a Wheel Horse that I neglected one time, and after several years, you could stick a knife through the rusty deck. Now, we have a ZTR. They both have their advantages, but we do like the speed and nimbleness of the ZTR. I am having an issue with one of the transaxles on the ZTR now. You do have 2 transmissions. On these residential models, there are no external oil filters, and they don't intend for us to change the fluid. Possibably, dirty fluid got mine in under 400 hours. I see where they recommend commercial units change their fluid every 250 hours or so. Looking back, I think I could have figured a way to at least changed the fluid - which might have helped it last longer. Hope you get along good with yours.

 

Geez, that sounds rough. 400 hurs is not a lot of time for that kind of issue! I'll be closely watching mine. Come to think of it, I'll be investigating on how to change out the hydro fluid tomorrow.
I do have another question. Now, this machine does a super great job with the new spindles, blades, etc. The PO had to have a new right rear tire installed, as the old one met a thorn in the sidewall. It's the standard Carlyle tread for a regular tractor type mower. It's traction is so-so on the straight and flat, but is pitiful at best in reverse. Also, ANY slope leaves this machine muddled. The mildest of slopes and neither rear tire wants t grab to do any kind of turn. Here's what I'm after: A new rear set of shoes for it. Something that will give better grip. I don't need knobby's, but maybe there's something midway? Any suggestions or experience is welcomed.
Thanks for any help....

 

Sorry about the debris problem on the deck Captainbob. Don't know what that could be. I have 3 mowers, and the only real problem is in the late fall, while trying to mulch leaves. I do have mulch blades, and I do have to blow leaves out from around the belts after each mowing. I do not use belt guards, so it is easy to do. But, they do not blow a lot of junk up to the operator.

You mentioned wheel spin. That is a problem with my Huskqvarna 54" with a solid front end. My Swisher ZTR has a pivoting front axle, and the rear wheels do not spin much. All have good tread. I saw on ebay, where someone has 20" mower tires for less than $20.

 

I guess the debris problem is something I will learn to live with. But I'm still looking for some better treaded rears.
I appreciate the help and suggestions....thank you all.

 

captainbob mine has izt trans also sealed units i have ove a 1000 hrs on it still runs drives mows great

 

Love how this machine sips fuel. I do have a question....how large is the fuel tank? Not mentioned in the book.

 

not sure about yours captain mine holds 5 gallons yeah that kohler is very good on fuel

 

Well, I'm lovin' this machine. The only thing better would be a 60" deck! But...it's all good. I think I found why the grass blows up through the spindle mounting holes. I used a set of those serious, high lift blades. Well, that upward pressure has to go somewhere and it all can't get past the chute fast enough. A of the debris was blowing from the deck top. A more normal blade set changed that.
I do have an issue, however. Those deck hanger straps. Nice cable wire with swaged (stupid!!) aluminum eye ends. Not going to replace them with the same anymore. I suspect solid link is not a good idea, so I'll be using some chain links with drilled steel eye plates instead. Anybody have issues like this? What was your solution?

 

no problems with eyelets had to pull pan on one trans everything looked good but the oil changed the oil back like new i think it made it a little faster

 

Just put a new air filter, plugs and fuel filter on it yesterday. Managed to remove the broken deck cables and replaced with two sets of chain, each three links. Not the correct length, but it will have to do for now. Maybe next week I can fab better stuff. Not a fan of something round rubbing crosswise on something round. Some of life's issues have gotten in the way for the past two weeks. Some sad stuff. Next week will hopefully be better. Did a test cut on the back area to see how things are. I like it for now. Will finish up the rest of the yards tomorrow.
Will look into that drive oil, Forkz. What kind of oil did you replace it with? How did you purge all the old stuff, and....how did you purge any air? Is there a drain plug for each drive?

 

I have Hydrogear transaxels in my Encore ZT. You can check the label on them and download a manual from them. I have the 2800 series and they call for 20W50 motor oil. They also have instructions on how to open them up to change the oil
Good Luck

 

 

Great vid, Forkz. Thank you for this help. Was doing some underside work on it today. the rh reservoir was a bit dry and the hose supplying the lh motor had a crack near the barbed fitting and was leaking. No idea why the rh reservoir was low and the lh is not. adjusted the brake rods while down there, too. Ordered a new belt as this was has chunks missing! Glad I found that now. Should finish it all up tomorrow with new edges on the blades and all fittings getting a blurb of grease. Hope I don't need to use that vid!
Again, thank you all for all your help.

 

Thanks for the video, Forkz. Timely. Seems like the right side motor is on it's last legs. Won't spin backwards by itself. Going forward is a bit better as long as the incline isn't to great. I'll be able to finish out the year with it, but it appears a rework will take place this winter. 530 hours on the machine.

 

any updates captain get that trans right new belt it will feel faster maby this will help you

 

Thanks for the vids, Forks. I took the rh side apart today. Almost. Cannot get the pulley and fan off it's shaft. All these vids show an easy-to-remove pulley and fan. Mine is very much different. The pulley is welded to a casting that's rust-welded to the shaft. The fan was screwed to the pulley from the backside. It's soaking now with PB Blaster. Tried an air hammer on the shaft to no avail.
Anybody have suggestions? I may end up angle grinding the pulley off, remove the fan and finish angle grinding the piece free from the shaft. Just order a new one....

 

heres a pic of mine with sweeper captain go to parts tree put in model no of tractor for parts breakdown

 

How did you attach the receiver? Weld to the frame? I was considering that, but was concerned there would not be enough power.
I like that!

 

here you go cap chech this out scroll down for ezt https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com/manuals/cub-cadet-59d8a304fb445b2c302562c518b989bd.pdf

 

Thank you very much, Forkz. Very, very helpful. I was surprised to see three variants on the pulley/fan setup. Wish mine was the simpler one. I'm afraid destruction to remove it is in it's future.
Again, thank you for this valuable help.

 

FINALLY got that crazy pulley off. Had to angle grind the pulley from it's collar. Removed the plastic fan, thenbroke out the smoke wrench. Had to heat it twice. The first time it moved a bit and seized again. Put more heat on it, almost to the point of spot-melting, six places on that collar. Finally, using two crow bars against the casting..( I HATE prying on aluminum castings! ) I managed to get it off. It squeaked and screeched it's way off, but I won! Too bad it ruined a $52 item for the sake of $0.02 of Never-Seize. I did manage to remove the internal spring clip. That's all I was in the mood for today. Will return to it all tomorrow and pull the internals.
I really appreciate all the help....
Thank you.

 

that was custom homme made if hyou look in my gallery there are more pix it s removeable as it sits low so the ball is level with tongue have to remove when loading on trailer takes about ten mins

 

sweeper tongue extended and converted to ball hitch