Hi i got a cub cadet 149 that i replaced the coil, condenser, set new points, and new plug but it still does not have spark. It has a kohler k321 14hp engine. I have been only trying to start it from putting jumpers onto the selinoid or by

putting jumpers on the starter/generator. I can only do this because no power goes to the starter when u have a battery connected to the correct leads under the seat. I was wondering if anyone had any tips i can try to get it to spark.

 

I can only think that something is grounding out or something aint hooked up.

 

AS A TEST........Connect a "jumper wire" from the Battery positive (+) terminal to the positive (+) terminal of the Ignition Coil. Try to start the engine and see if you have spark and/or if the engine starts. Report back on your findings.

 

Just replaced the selinoid and it still aint turning over from the battery leads under the seat. I still have to jump it from the starter. Im wondering if i throw on a new key switch then it will work.

 

Still has no spark i tried it

 

If you got no power going to the starter when you turn they key on, sounds like a bad switch, or bad wiring somewhere.

 

heres a lead to the wiring diagram Wiring Diagrams - WF - Only Cub Cadets

a bad amp meter or voltage regulator will cause problems as this has a unique start/ charging system and its hard to describe via internet .

 

IF you still have no spark, then one of two conditions exist. (A) There is no ground connection between the engine and the negative (-) battery terminal, or (B) the Ignition Coil is bad and has an open winding.

 

I dont get it because the motor does not have spark. However if u put one (+) on the coil and put another positive on the starter hold the spark plug wire with the plug in ur hand it will shock u as soon as u hook up the negative for the engine to turn over. It wont spark the rest of the time tho.

 

Its a brand new coil

 

It is completing the start/crank sequence when you are doing that so either you have the wrong solenoid, the wrong ignition switch or the wiring done wrong. Not hard to fix if I had it here but via the net it is very hard to do. Not all solenoids are the same even though they make look the same. Roger

 

Im going to try to throw a new key switch on

 

Are you pushing the Brake pedal at the same time as you are starting the engine. I have a 149 that I have tore apart and rebuild. It has the original motor 14 HP in it.

 

When it comes to non-starts/firing, I always start from battery.

I use a multimeter to first test battery in a no-load/start switch off condition to be sure it is putting out 12.25v or more. If you only show max of 12v without even starting then your battery is already weak. Put on charger or take to auto store and have them also do a charge and a load test to determine if bad battery.

Check/clean battery wires and connections of corrosion with water/baking soda to neutralize acid corrosion buildup.

If in doubt about solenoid/regulator you need to use multimeter(set on 20v DC) and check with key on to be sure you're getting juice to correct terminals, and those terminal wires are getting juice to next terminal or connection down the line.

If at any point you lose a connection while checking, you then can determine that the wire between terminals are bad or the solenoid/relay/regulator is bad.

You can also check with no battery installed, for any broken wires with a multimeter by using the +/- OHM side to look for continuity of wire from one terminal to next. If your meter has sound and you don't hear the sound, you shake or bend wire along it's line to find where interior break is.

Keep us informed. Good luck

 

Yes i did put the brake petal down. I have i put a new selinoid on just waiting for a key switch. I tried putting positive current to the coil and the starter and a negative ground to the starter i get volts to the coil.

When i hookup my volt tester it shows im getting power to the coil. When i turn the engine over it stays at the same amount of volts every time. Im pretty sure it should be changing because the points have to ground the spark.

I have a whole new sparking system and im wondering if i have bad points or a bad condenser. Either way i dont think there is any way of testing them unless i put them on another machine. My other machine does not run either. So i dont know what to do.

Thanks

 

You can give the ignition system a rudimentary test with the engine not cranking.

With the points closed (ignition ON) flick the contacts open.
Every time they open, you should get a spark.
IF NOT- disconnect the condenser and repeat. IF a spark, bad condenser.

You can also check the points when cranking the engine.
Use either a 12V test light or voltmeter lead on the -side (points) of the coil.
When the points are closed, current should flow through them, thus no light or 12V reading.
IF the points aren't closing/making contact, the light will be ON, since the current is trying to take that path.
The points are just a switch to charge the coil. Open the switch and the magnetic field of the coil collapses, inducing spark through the secondary.
The coil is just a "1 shot" transformer. Charge, collapse field for spark, repeat.
The condenser reduces arcing between the points, which burns points and also partially discharges the coil.
A shorted condenser = no spark.
On open/out of spec condenser results in a no/weak or erratic spark.

Resistance of the coil Primary should be 4-8 OHMS.
Secondary should be 7000-12000 OHMS.

IF you don't have a repair manual, see-
http://www.mytractorforum.com/14-craftsman-sears-forum/259418-all-kohler-engines-link.html

 

I got it running mint. Turns out the points wire was hooked up to the wrong bolt.

Thanks for all u guys support.
I still have one problem and that is that i still need to jump it to the starter and have a positive wire to the coil.

I put a new key switch on. The selinoid is good im almost positive that the voltage regulator is hooked up right. I cant tell cuz the wires are kinda old so they are all brown. Cant tell difference between colors.

I think either the negative wire to the starter is bad or the voltage regulator is or both. Im going to try to replace voltage regultor first.

Do u guys have any input thanks.