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Bad Voltage Regulator?

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6.5K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Dollar Bill  
#1 ·
For the record, I've never measured more than about 6.30 Volts on this tractor, ever since I got a new battery for it a year ago. I do believe it has been charging itself because I've used it extensively without having to charge it up. But I've recently been having problems with timing being off, changing the condenser, etc., and noticed that it doesn't seem to be recharging the battery anymore.

My part number is 8n339xxx. I have the voltage regulator that has the 3 terminals on the bottom, marked ARM, FLD, BAT, left to right. I've tried holding a wrench between ARM and FLD to "polarize" the generator, but never saw that arc of electricity that I'm supposed to see. I even opened the VR up and tried to lengthen and then shorten that one spring, to no avail.

Having a multimeter on the battery, it was 6.15 volts, after starting, it dropped down to almost 6.0, but then started coming back up to around 6.10, and hovered around there, and started to slowly go down to 6.09.

Shouldn't I be seeing something like 7.5 volts on the battery as soon as the tractor is running?
 
#2 ·
Would really be great to get some responses..

I'm not sure if my generator is working. It is the style with 3 wires going to it. How do I test that it works? I held my voltmeter with one lead on the positive ground of the battery and the other lead on each of the 3 posts on the generator and didn't see a voltage. Should I have? Is it shot? Is there a way to fix it?
 
#3 ·
I've read that checking the output voltage on the generator is the only real test you can do of the generator with it in the tractor... otherwise you need a bunch of special bench test hardware. At least, that's what they write about for the 12 volt negative ground Delco-Remy's in the RF JDs. They make around 13.6 volts when charging


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#5 ·
First things first, you need to determine if the generator is working.
1: connect a volt meter with clips so u don't have to hold the leads,
2: take note of voltage reading with engine not running,
3: start engine, set rpm to around 15-1800,
4: then use a jumper wire to ground the field terminal,
this bypassed the regulator, the voltage reading now should be more
than what was observed in step #2. If is it not 1-2 volt more, then
the generator is not working.
When you determine the generator is working, then it's time to troubleshoot
the regulator,

Hope this helps,

Jimmy
 
#6 ·
Which terminals should I connect the clips to on the generator? It's been painted over 50 times and I can't read any labels on the terminals. I can just see the faint color of the wires connected to those terminals, and I don't even know if I should trust those color codes of the wires. So I don't know which should be the field terminal. But you're saying I have to hold one clip on one terminal, and the other on the field terminal, which should also be grounded out?
 
#7 ·
Use a jumper wire to connect the field terminal to ground, I have
no idea how to tell you which is ground, you may have to scrape
off enough paint from the gen case, also the connection tabs on the
regulator may be marked. that's about the best I can do without
being able to lay my hands on it. Maybe someone could post a pic
of the reg. or gen, with the terminals labeled.

Jimmy
 
#8 ·
1. First, polarize it by jumpering BAT to ARM, then restart.

2. Full field gen by grounding FLD tab at gen while at mid throttle. Any charging? If not, jumper BAT to ARM. Anything?

3. If no, disconnect wires from gen and do a motor test. Remove belt, connect BAT to ARM, and ground the FLD terminal. Gen should spin if it is good.

Note: The full field test makes the gen charge at max so do not leave jumpered too long.