I found this tractor sitting behind a barn where it had sat for years. The owner at the time got it running enough to prove to me it ran. And, it ran great about 45 minutes before the sludge in the fuel system clogged everything up. I pulled all that out and fixed it. I just charged up the battery and repaired the battery cables. I know for a fact, thanks to my test light, power is getting to the solenoid under the batter. The ignition switch appears to have been disabled many years ago. There are no wires going to it. When it ran before, all I had to do was push the start button. When I hit the toggle switch on the dash power is coming out of it. There appears to be no power getting to the starter. Before I go throwing parts at it I wanted to pick some brains and see if there is something else I should try. It looks to me like a bad solenoid, thoughts?
Lonesome
I am not so sure about the battery now. I took it to the store to test it but I do not know the cranking amps so I had to guess so I tried a higher and a lower number. It tasted bad in the higher and good on the lower, however it stated it was in this last quarter of his life. Also, the date code is from 2001.
Once again autocorrect got me. I do not know how the battery tasted, but I know it tested bad on the higher.
A 14 year old battery? I don't know how it takes any charge at all, after sitting in a dead tractor for who knows how long! It won't last long at best, so I'd replace it anyway. These engines are low compression and don't require a lot of Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). Any new 12v battery that fits your battery box will have more than enough reserve power, so you don't need one with large CCA or amp/hour numbers. Get the cheapest one that fits, and make sure the terminals aren't reversed from yours.
If the old battery passed on a low amperage setting, it probably has enough power for use on the test bench (no load starter testing, etc.). You can keep it, or trade it in for the core charge.
If the old battery passed on a low amperage setting, it probably has enough power for use on the test bench (no load starter testing, etc.). You can keep it, or trade it in for the core charge.
If it won't pass the test at the high amperages plus the fact it is that old it is to say that battery is toast and it is time for a new one.
Bad thread, bad, bad thread... I went out to start my pickup and got just a grunt... Digital voltmeter shows 12.15 volts, lights burn bright but only a grunt and click from the starter... bad thread, it was not suppose to rub off...
Perhaps this thread should be quarantined.
I meant to ask how many cranking amps for the battery have that I get for this tractor?
I meant to ask how many cranking amps for the battery have that I get for this tractor?
The original 8N 6V battery was only rated at 80 amps, but this was before CCA or amp/hour ratings became common. There is no accurate comparison chart. The original generator supplied up to 18 amps for battery recharging and lights. Most 12V conversions use a 30 amp alternator (still small, but more than you'll ever need).
Even the smallest CCA 6V or 12V automotive battery commonly available today will have several times more cranking power than you need for any 2N, 8N, 9N tractor. Don't spend money on extra power, as it won't last any longer or work any better in this application.
Even the smallest CCA 6V or 12V automotive battery commonly available today will have several times more cranking power than you need for any 2N, 8N, 9N tractor. Don't spend money on extra power, as it won't last any longer or work any better in this application.
(Barnstormer) Even the smallest CCA 6V or 12V automotive battery commonly available today will have several times more cranking power than you need for any 2N, 8N, 9N tractor. Don't spend money on extra power, as it won't last any longer or work any better in this application.[/QUOTE]
I agree with Carl----I'm not too concerned about the CCA rating on a battery I put in my Fords. I usually buy the smallest, cheapest battery that will fit right, but don't use lawnmower batteries. I've been lucky, I guess, three of my tractors have batteries over 5 years old, and never fail to start. On something like my Super Duty, I get the best battery I can find, because of all the electronics and it is real voltage sensitive. These tractors don't need so many CCAs.
I agree with Carl----I'm not too concerned about the CCA rating on a battery I put in my Fords. I usually buy the smallest, cheapest battery that will fit right, but don't use lawnmower batteries. I've been lucky, I guess, three of my tractors have batteries over 5 years old, and never fail to start. On something like my Super Duty, I get the best battery I can find, because of all the electronics and it is real voltage sensitive. These tractors don't need so many CCAs.
That is what I was wondering. I found a cheap battery at the parts store that fits. But, I was worried it might be too powerful.
I am getting set up in my new shop at the moment. When I am done doing that I will drive the tractor in and they will the battery starter that..
Is the fuel knob open too much? You only have to open it 2 turns. Full open for reserve. You might be flooding it
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