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#21 ·
2cycled fruitcake said:
stickin to what i use&never had or will have probs
**** i may go back to the old school method, in th 40's-60-s just mixed 30wt w gas&the **** with the epa
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:ditto: :ditto: :ditto: Couldn't have said it better.
 
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#22 ·
2cycled fruitcake said:
**** i may go back to the old school method, in th 40's-60-s just mixed 30wt w gas&the **** with the epa
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This is a BAD idea. 4 stroke oils have additives to resist burning. With todays 2 stroke oils available everywhere, there is no reason to resort to this. Do what's good for your engine.
 
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#23 ·
2cycled fruitcake said:
stickin to what i use&never had or will have probs
**** i may go back to the old school method, in th 40's-60-s just mixed 30wt w gas&the **** with the epa
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I have run the old 10w30 from our vehicles in all my 2 stroke stuff for 10 years....string trimmers, chainsaws, leaf blowers.........no problems with lubrication..........had the same chain saw for 10 years.....and the old engine oil works great for bar oil in a saw too.......
 
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#24 ·
bogieboy said:
I have run the old 10w30 from our vehicles in all my 2 stroke stuff for 10 years....string trimmers, chainsaws, leaf blowers.........no problems with lubrication..........had the same chain saw for 10 years.....and the old engine oil works great for bar oil in a saw too.......
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Professional bicyclists used to smoke cigarettes right before a mountian stage climb thinking that it cleared their lungs and helped in processing oxygen. Hmmm, the things we learn as time goes on.:duh:
 
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#25 ·
lol, true,true,
times have advanced,
still goin to use omc or pennzoil for my mowers
i used to save the old car oil, filter thru a sieve &use it for oil stones to sharpen knives,chisel&such
 
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#26 ·
bogieboy said:
I have run the old 10w30 from our vehicles in all my 2 stroke stuff for 10 years....string trimmers, chainsaws, leaf blowers.........no problems with lubrication..........had the same chain saw for 10 years.....and the old engine oil works great for bar oil in a saw too.......
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You're not serious....? :00000060:

Take a look in the exhaust port to discover a nice, crusty layer of hard carbon ash as it's scoring the piston and cylinder dropping compression until you give up on trying to start it, especially when cold. Yeah, it may lubricate, but it won't burn completely or cleanly leaving just an oil film. You get all that nice 'grit' to go with it. I inherited(many years ago), and old chain saw operated this way. Engine was toasted acutally when I got it. What kinda of bar/chain life do you get running staight 10w-30? Do you run the saw ONLY in sub freezing temps? Not sure about all of you fellas, but ALL my used oil gets recycled into an oil burning furnace. I enjoy giving my tools....er should I say toys, the best lubes money can buy, especially since I got rid of all my cheap stuff and replaced it all with quality built units.
 
#27 ·
Yes....I am serious......and I had the string trimmer apart last year (7 years old) to rebuild the carb, thought I'd check on the rest.......almost no carbon buildup, and absolutely no scoring on any surface........and by almost no carbon, I mean at the MOST 1/32 of an inch of buildup on the port.

They get run in any temperature.....I'm near chicago, so it could be anywhere from 40 to110° F. I use the string trimmer EVERY WEEK.

Maybe I'm just lucky?
 
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#28 ·
Oh,and the chainsaw bar? Still original......3rd chain.....
 
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#29 ·
Near Chicago huh? Almost neighbors then. Anyway, you must be "getting lucky" on your formulation because I've seen more harm than good when using lubes like this. Putting trans fluid or similar in for bar/chain lube, etc. Why would you not just buy the actual product made to lube the equipment properly as per manu specs? Even the cheapest $, 2 stroke oil will perform better and give the engine better life-same for the bar/chain. Just my .02
If your happy and content your way, then by all means.
 
#30 ·
bogieboy said:
Yes....I am serious......and I had the string trimmer apart last year (7 years old) to rebuild the carb, thought I'd check on the rest.......almost no carbon buildup, and absolutely no scoring on any surface........and by almost no carbon, I mean at the MOST 1/32 of an inch of buildup on the port.

They get run in any temperature.....I'm near chicago, so it could be anywhere from 40 to110° F. I use the string trimmer EVERY WEEK.

Maybe I'm just lucky?
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Yikes!!!



I will not get involved in this thread! I will not get involved in this thread.....
 
#32 ·
If you boil down all the endless "oil" discussions on the internet combined with advertising hype there are several conclusions to be made.
1)Very few lubrication failures can be attributed to the fault of a certain oil.
2)Most of the "evidence" for lubrication discussions is what each person has observed tainted with their own personal beliefs. (AKA, Not a scientific study)
3)Discussions about oils bring out strong opinions. Most of these opinions are based in personal experience and may or may not be based on large bodies of evidence.
4) An exhaustive unbiased scientific study of oil use and lubrication failures and successes needs to be done in several unrelated universities.
Having said all that it does not surprise me that using used motor oil in 2 cycle applications yields surprisingly good results. After all cars burn oil and have many of the same lubrication requirements.
There are quite a few guys out there burning filtered used motor oil for fuel in their stationary diesel generators and it works quite well.
 
#33 ·
True. I base my conclusions and recommendations from what I've personally seen, and tried and the results from, thereof. Just because it "works" without catistrophic failure, doesn't mean it's recommended or should be used. Running a piece of equipment or engine, unless to escape harm or save a life on "any ol' lube", is not very sound advice IMHO. I would only recommend using what the manu calls for, period. The way things are going for most folks these days, I can understand being frugal or limiting using the highest quality of materials available, but using ANYTHING less than a manufacturers requirements for proper lubrication is ludicrous! Off this :1106: :)
 
#34 ·
It's one thing to use a different brand of oil that meets the minumum standards of the oil that is recommended by the manufacturer. It's a completely different thing to use an oil that was not designed to be used in that application in the first place. Heck, why not use coconut oil and make your engine smell like popcorn at the theater? As far as the cost factor, I tested Quaker State 2 cycle oil in one Lawnboy all summer last year. It turned out to be an excellent oil with minimal deposits left on the ports. The cost? $2.68 a quart at Menards. That's 36 cents per gallon to use (after tax is added) at a 32:1 mix. That's very little added cost even in a bad economy.
 
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#35 ·
E-man, if you follow the manual , it will tell you to use OEM stuff. It is a safe bet for sure. LBs were never big in my area. Nor were Stihl chainsaws when I bought it in 1977. It specc'ed 40:1 . The saw doest see the use it once did when I harvested wood for heating the house, but it starts when I need to clean up my trees. The saw runs fine. The saw doesnt have a brake. About 20 yrs ago, I lost the idle stop screw, so it dies when you take your finger off the trigger. A tug starts it when warm. I have run it on a 32:1 mix since day one. The oil is the 8 ounce bottle they sell at the local hardware. That is what I feed all the 2 strokes, and the 4 stroke snowthrower when I run out of reg'lar. All bar oil is is 30 weight oil with some sort of "tackifier" added to it. I buy that as required. I'm not messing with doing the right thing for more money and trouble finding the right stuff when the wrong stuff works fine. YMMV. :)
 
#36 ·
I follow most manus manuals, but why do I need to "use their oil"? It's more market hype and money in their pockets when today, there are MANY quality oils meeting and more often exceeding manu specs. I'm pretty solid on how and what makes up bar/chain oil, thanks for your input for those that may not. Whenever you need lubrication for equipment, it's not critical to run the same brand, just within SPEC is what counts. This was my point all along. I love opinions, views and thought concepts about oils as discussed by others, especially when it makes good sense and can be backed up with actual facts and positive performance.
 
#37 ·
echoman said:
I follow most manus manuals, but why do I need to "use their oil"? It's more market hype and money in their pockets when today, there are MANY quality oils meeting and more often exceeding manu specs. I'm pretty solid on how and what makes up bar/chain oil, thanks for your input for those that may not. Whenever you need lubrication for equipment, it's not critical to run the same brand, just within SPEC is what counts. This was my point all along. I love opinions, views and thought concepts about oils as discussed by others, especially when it makes good sense and can be backed up with actual facts and positive performance.
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X2, I suppose I'm not giving my LB trimmer optimum oil, by not using TCW3, but it sees only about 20 minutes use every time I mow. I also richen the mix with MMO, because I like the smell. After 4 years On BITOG, I am in agreement with you. For normal usage, the main difference between a premium brand and brand X is the advertising budget.
 
#40 ·
Gee, now that this thread has gotten completely out of control, now seems the opportune time to bring up Amsoil.

I'm running 64:1 in all my equipment except for the 8232, which is self-propelled, gear driven off the driveshaft. Too afraid to do 64:1 for that one.

I have a trusted friend and very experienced mechanic who claims that I need to just stop being afraid, take the plunge, and run the Amsoil at 100:1.

I'm not ready to run 100:1.
 
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2cycled fruitcake
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