Hi There. I ust picked this rig up with 48" plow. It has the 26hp B&S engine and runs well. When I start it goes good in forward gear with power and speed, but is slow/weak in reverse initially. It then loses reverse. If I leave sit for awhile it will repeat above. I've followed procedure in manual suggested to purge air, but to no avail. Temps. were about 25 degrees here in Maine late afternoon today. What's my next move.... drive belt or check/add 20w-50 fluid through vent tube? Any thoughts or experience with this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers ~ Bob
Help... Craftsman 917.276.081 with HydroGear 331-3000
bulletmc
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This is very common on AYP units, I have seen other techs warranty the trans only to still have the same issue. Most are thinking it is done with the linkage however you can clearly see the wonderfully flat tab for the return stop in this diagram.
Bulletmc I know you said you checked your linkage, But does the control handle on the right fender return to the stop position when you press the clutch/brake pedal? if not you still have a issue with the linkage.
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Again, Thanks to all for your help guys. The handle does indeed return to the stop or neutral position when depressing the clutch/brake pedal.
Since my last entry I located a belt locally at a shop in the middle of nowhere. I put that on and not much difference noted. I then added about 2 cups of 20W50 oil by inserting a smaller diameter rubber line into the breather hose and using a turkey baster to load and push the oil in. It seems to have improved the situation. Reverse had more speed and did not seem to fade. Forward was lightning fast. No noise or chattering noticed. I will try it under load the next small storm we get to see how it performs? If it fades I may get an oil pump to see if I can extract all the old fluid through vent hose and then replace with 100% new fluid. Thoughts???
Since my last entry I located a belt locally at a shop in the middle of nowhere. I put that on and not much difference noted. I then added about 2 cups of 20W50 oil by inserting a smaller diameter rubber line into the breather hose and using a turkey baster to load and push the oil in. It seems to have improved the situation. Reverse had more speed and did not seem to fade. Forward was lightning fast. No noise or chattering noticed. I will try it under load the next small storm we get to see how it performs? If it fades I may get an oil pump to see if I can extract all the old fluid through vent hose and then replace with 100% new fluid. Thoughts???
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Hi bulletmc, here's one way to change to fluid in the hydro:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/232-articles-drive-train/197208-hydro-gear-331-3000-oil-change.html
http://www.mytractorforum.com/232-articles-drive-train/197208-hydro-gear-331-3000-oil-change.html
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15,211 Posts
I took this number to the Sears site.. 917276081... & brought up the guys machine.. I search all the parts & didn't find a part like u posted the pic of.. nothin on the ground drive system ..
so does that make my ideas come from left field..
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I read the oil change instructions.I thought these hydro gear trans had an internal oil filter.(puck filter)I did not read anything about a filter.The earlier version like mine had a spin-on filter.
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Technically, you don't have to disassemble the tranny to replace the internal filter. It's basically just a matter of pulling off the bottom cover and removing a few parts.
But, you should remove it and flip it over to make the job much easier. There's a check ball which may be very tough to reinstall with the tranny right-side-up in the tractor.
There are some great YouTube videos to walk you through this (look for Hydro-Gear rebuild vids), as well as a bunch of other threads here.
Having said that, if you added TWO CUPS of fluid, I'd say you have bigger problems and need to find out how that fluid was lost in the first place (assuming it was low and you filled it properly without overfilling it).
Hope this helps.
Mike
But, you should remove it and flip it over to make the job much easier. There's a check ball which may be very tough to reinstall with the tranny right-side-up in the tractor.
There are some great YouTube videos to walk you through this (look for Hydro-Gear rebuild vids), as well as a bunch of other threads here.
Having said that, if you added TWO CUPS of fluid, I'd say you have bigger problems and need to find out how that fluid was lost in the first place (assuming it was low and you filled it properly without overfilling it).
Hope this helps.
Mike
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21,248 Posts
Here's a thread with a bunch of good links, including a Hydro-Gear tranny service manual:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/14-craftsman-sears-forum/712138-2003-gt5000-hydro-slow.html
Mike
http://www.mytractorforum.com/14-craftsman-sears-forum/712138-2003-gt5000-hydro-slow.html
Mike
Hey. Thanks for the info. The 2 cups were those little Dixie cups(3oz. I think) and they weren't full. I'm guessing 4.5-5 ozs. of added oil tops. No signs of leaks anywhere.
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BULLETMC,i think that what you did is a good way to troubleshoot your hydro.There is no pump pressure in the casing,I would feel comfortable adding more oil, into the vent tube.My hydro gets over filled sometimes,because my 3 QT.remote resivour has problems filling or draining sometimes,witch over fills the trans and spits alittle oil into a collection bottle.Its been this way for years.My axle seals are fine.
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What MadTech is referring to is the tendency of this machine having a " loose " drive belt even when new. Build up of grass and crap in the " sandwich " part of the frame by the lower steering bushing limits how far the idler can return to its tightened resting position . It is spring loaded. This can make it seem like you have your foot on the clutch a little bit even when its not. Combined with a worn plastic pulley or two and a glazed belt from slipping and the motion degrades. A plow and chains and junk make it worse. Common issue. I think that's what he meant.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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15,211 Posts
the prob of the tang thingy does not exist on this machine in question.. it doesn't have one of them
this machine may have a bad bearing on an idler pulley tho.. & it could b puttin a drag on the belt which could slow the belt down.. & even make the belt stop turnin..
[Guys... Thanks for the replies. I have a new belt on, idler/pulleys spin freely with no drag and tensioner has full travel. The 20w50 oil I added to the transaxle through the vent hose has seemed to help it for now, but haven't run it much with no real snow up here in Maine. Time will tell. Thanks Again!QUOTE=Whirly;8885129]the prob of the tang thingy does not exist on this machine in question.. it doesn't have one of them
this machine may have a bad bearing on an idler pulley tho.. & it could b puttin a drag on the belt which could slow the belt down.. & even make the belt stop turnin..[/QUOTE]
this machine may have a bad bearing on an idler pulley tho.. & it could b puttin a drag on the belt which could slow the belt down.. & even make the belt stop turnin..[/QUOTE]
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