My Tractor Forum banner
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
I don't know what is wanted anymore so I am gonna sit this one out... at least until it is determined WHAT is wanted.

Want to stay 6V and cannot get generator to work correctly then put a 6V alternator on. Want 12V put a real 12V coil that does not need a resistor and alternator on it. Choose one and do it.
 
That is not 100% true. There are two different types of coils that are advertised as "12 volt coils". One type does not require an external resistor when run on 12 volts and the other type does. The ones sold as 12 volt coils that do require an external resistor usually say on the body of the coil "external resistor required".
I forgot to mention this.

I think I'm understanding this better. Does the red line come from the battery side of the key switch or the other side? Does there need to be a resistor in that line?
Also, why is there a fuse in the black line going to the battery?
Thanks
As already mentioned, that wire would go to a switched power source (energized with the key on). No resistor required, you could splice this with the wire that powers the coil, before the resistor, if used. The fuse is there for circuit protection. Most don't use them, but better safe than sorry.
 
I'm starting to get confused again. So many options! I'd like to keep my 6V system, but I can't get it to charge, so I thought this would be easy. Get a 1 wire alternator and run the wire through the ammeter, to the battery and put a resistor in line to the coil and lights. I just don't know what to do I guess...

So, now you want to continue to be a 6 volt 8N'er, but, you want to use a alternator with the one wire, and use a 12 volt battery.

Where did you get the idea that you could mix some 6 volt with 12 volt items? As John W mentioned, if you want to use a 6 volt alternator, it will set you back about $150.00, and you haven't seen nothing yet.

So, you now want a 12 volt system... get you a 3 wire 12 volt alternator, 12 volt "round" coil.....those 12 volt "box " coils aren't too reliable, remove the voltage regulator, the do away with the in-line resistor, ( the round coil has a internal resistor) built in, do away with the ballast resistor block. Buy or order a "terminal Block" that has the "two posts" for the wiring setup.
The wire(red one), or what ever color you have coming from the "left post" on the "terminal block" goes to the + (positive) post on the 12 volt coil. You "must" have a wire from the same "left post" on the terminal block going to the + side of the "Ignition Switch" when the key in on to start. The battery is connected as follows: Negative cable to ground. Here is a two post terminal block...about $7.95



Lets get this done, and do away with trying to solve an old antique 6 volt electric system.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I don't know what is wanted anymore so I am gonna sit this one out... at least until it is determined WHAT is wanted.

Want to stay 6V and cannot get generator to work correctly then put a 6V alternator on. Want 12V put a real 12V coil that does not need a resistor and alternator on it. Choose one and do it.
To try to clear this up, I was wanting a 1 wire system like is pictured in the wiring diagram in the stickies.
 
Happy New Year 1948Ford 8N. Sorry to hear about the Sooners lost.. Wait till next year.

Now, back to the 8N problem.
I read that you have new wiring, correct? If this is true, you have wiring for a 6 volt system, and that consists all the wires going to the 6 volt box coil, the 6 volt generator, 6 volt voltage regulator, old wire-through ammeter. So, now you want to get the 8N running with 12 volts. No generator, but a one-wire alternator, and no voltage regulator, and new "two-post" ammeter. Which means you are going have to do some additional wiring to make the change-over.
You are going to need this 12 volt resistor with the new 12 volt box coil.. Depending on what the "Ohms" are on the coil.


If you have already done the above, you have all the wires connected to their right locations, and you don't have the battery charging or the "new" two-post ammeter showing any charge, than your one wire alternator is in need of repairs. So, it's time to tear apart the alternator and repair it. Cost is about $25-$30 dollars. You can buy the repair kit off ebay. Make sure you order the correct kit...like the photo below.

 
I joined this place not long ago. Lately I have just been browsing around in here.
Saw this thread about 6-12volt conversion.
Just gonna give my input.
My 52 8N is a 6volt.
I have had it 18yrs and am supposedly the 3rd owner.
I bought it from the original owner who took it back in on a trade for another tractor.
I change the points and plugs annually along with changing the fluids and greasing it
Regarding this 6-12 volt discussion...
My 8N is still a 6volt.
I must have a good one.
I have never had any trouble starting it....hot or cold weather
It usually cranks on the second or third time it turns over.
I have found if I turn the gas off, I will have use the choke..
People are impressed when the see this old tractor crank after turning over a few times
So I leave my gas turned on....it doesn't seem to leak out
I have read it is a no no to leave the gas turned on...
But it seems to work for me
In the 18yrs I have owned it, I have put 4 batteries in it
Sometimes I my go 3-4 months without starting it so I keep a battery tender on it
I asked the original owner when I bought it should I convert it to 12volts
He asked me why fix something if it ain't broke...
Again....I'm just speaking of my experience having left mine at 6volts
I do understand anyone's reasoning for converting to 12volts
 
I am with you. I have had my 49 almost that long, 6V and no reason to consider conversion. Have only changed points once in 15 years, though keep them adjusted. New plugs annually. Rebuilt starter couple of years ago, made a huge difference in cranking speed and starting. -10 to plow snow, starts with 3-4 revolutions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts