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1250 3-pt hitch

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29K views 77 replies 17 participants last post by  nsmith_nd  
N
#1 ·
As I'm cutting/drilling/grinding the pieces of a 3-pt hitch for the 1250 (as laid out at the end of the 18010 manual under the "Manuals" thread), I'm drawn to the open space between the frame and the trans-axle just below the filter.

Has anyone ever mounted an auxiliary hydraulic cylinder in this space ? I'm thinking that a cylinder with a rear rock-shaft configuration similar to the 3-pt setup on the HT23(?) would allow for independent operation of the 3-pt and free up the center lift.

Thoughts?
-Neil
 
#2 ·
I've considered attempting to do something like this. It can be frustrating to have to remove the blade to use the scraper, or the scraper to use the snowblower.
A second lift cylinder and arms to run the back accessory would be a good thing.
 
#3 ·
Me three, I don't think it would be too tough either. I have thought of putting an auxiliary hydraulic valve on my 1250 so that I could use the hydraulic front blade from my HT. I have also thought about a sleeve hitch that would have it's own cylinder on the back which would give it good down pressure. Another spot to put the cylinder would be between the left frame rail and the upper part of the axle since the 1250 only has the brake on the right rear side. Keep us updated on whether you decide to do this mod.
 
#4 ·
I have a dash tower and hydraulic valve from an 1886 that I am planning to graft onto a 14xx to give me secondary hydraulic control (it has dual valves and levers). I am trying to envision how I could do three things with two valves, so that I could raise and angle a front blade, as well as raise and lower the 3-pt hitch . . .

I am thinking it would take a triple valve. Hmmmmm . . . .
 
N
#6 ·
I lucked out (kinda). The 1250 came to me with a dual control valve mounted to the left of the console. Unfortunately the original valve was gone. I found a valve that came off of an H16XL, but guessing it doesn't have a "float" position. Should be able to get it mounted back behind the console though so will probably just go with it and tie it back to the original lift cylinder.

Have had absolutely NO luck "winning" an extra cylinder (or two) on ebay though. I would like one for a snow blade angle adjust and another to fit in the limited space within the rear frame channel for the 3-pt lift. I sized it up and think a 12" cylinder (end-to-end) is the max that I would want to go with. I believe that would translate to a standard large frame lift cylinder with a 6" stroke ?? I see there are some 8" stroke cylinders on surpluscenter.com for $50, but they are 16" long (end-to-end).
 

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#7 ·
nsmith_nd,
So, are you going from a dual-valve back to a single, or adding a third?
If you were going to design your own rockshaft setup for a rear cylinder lift, you could probably consider a cylinder like the small Bolens tube frames use for their lift. They turn up on eBay pretty regularly, and if you use the "push" cylinder direction for the movement in the direction where you need the most force, it should be adequate. Would that be up, or down on a 3-pt?
That rockshaft pivot and cylinder mount would definitely be subjected to some force, so a strong design is needed.
 
#8 ·
nsmith_nd said:
. . . with a rear rock-shaft configuration similar to the 3-pt setup on the HT23(?) would allow for independent operation of the 3-pt and free up the center lift . . . .
Click to expand...
Neil,
Where can I find a picture or diagram of this HT-23 rear rockshaft setup you are referring to?

It doesn't show in the parts book, and I haven't seen this before.
 
#9 ·
Not sure this will help. Its a random picture I had take during the start of my HT23 restoration. Its poor quality because it was a huge picture that I zoomed into bunches. Hope it helps a little... although I am not sure its what you were looking for.

Nick
 

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N
#10 ·
Hoping to add the console valve as a 3rd, leaving the dual in place.

As for the 3-pt on the HT's... sonny's lists the HT's as using the 18086 3-pt.
From what I can tell (correct me if I'm wrong), the HT's have a frame that extends beyond the trans-axle, allowing block bearings to be attached on the ends. The 18086 manual shows the "pivot" shaft and given the short length of the links between the pivot shaft and the lift arms, the frame height is as high as the shaft would be mounted (nearly centered across the back of the trans-axle).

My hope on the 1250 (frame ends flush with the trans-axle) is to bolt some heavy "L" shaped plate to the inside of the frame on each side and attach a rock-shaft towards the top of the "L" and tucked up under the sheet-metal if there is room. Adding some additional bracing to tie the top of the "L"'s to the pan bracket under the seat. The left-side "L" would extend as far forward as possible (approx 16") to allow for some heavy duty reinforcement when building the mount for the end of the cylinder (since it can't be tied across to the other frame rail because the trans-axle will be in the way).
 
#12 ·
Hmmm, makes some sense. I wonder why they added the second rockshaft and linkage, when they were using the same mid-mounted hydraulic ram/rockshaft to actuate it?
Anyway, doing something like this with an auxiliary ram would allow it to be separately actuated, which was the point of this thread. Maybe scavenging an old large frame to hack off 5" sections that could be added to the back of stock frames would be a good use of a dead parts tractor?
 
#16 ·
My thoughts exactly. I've been watching power steering column type valves for john deere's and bolens and they are going for more than what those places have them for new.
 
#17 ·
I picked up a 1476 ram for $24 plus $14 shipping last year on eBay, but I've missed a lot of things because they went ridiculously high.
I just bid once, for what my limit is that I'd pay for something, and let it go. If I win, cool, and if not, oh well.
I tried a few ties to buy a 3pt hitch for a large frame on eBay, but they went way up there. I finally found a whole tractor with one on it for less than the last two hitches went for on eBay.
 
#18 ·
Hey Neil,

Here is a pic I came across on ePay, of a Massey-Ferguson Garden Tractor 3-pt hitch setup.
Looks like they did it precisely the way you were suggesting, with a rear-facing ram tucked between the frame and the left side of the differential housing, and a rock shaft across the back.
 

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N
#19 ·
That is definitely what I was thinking. Hoping I will be able to tuck the rock-shaft up under the the fender though. Missed out on the last e-bay shaft (identical to the one up front) which would have been nice to start with. So when the time comes I'll just build something from scratch. Still don't have a hydraulic cylinder in-hand either so went ahead and started on the standard lift rod version for now. No close-up's of the lift rods (very ugly welds)...I just used 5/8" threaded rod and the long threaded rod couplers sandwiched between a couple of plates to make clevis ends. Very cheap compared to machined clevis ends but not sure I would do it again. They deformed (of course) due to the heat and I had to run a tap through them to clean them up. Just have to cut and drill (for hair-pin clips) a chunk of 1/2" solid rod for the cross support and should be ready to clean-up and paint.
 

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N
#22 ·
After I welded everything up I did install the lift-arms between the tabs. But nothing lined up !! The 11-3/4" pipe that was called for (to connect between the arms) would have been approx 14", and the lift rods were rubbing against the frame rails. So I took a closer look at the Bolens installation instructions and noticed that the lift arms were not shown installed between the tabs. Once I moved them in, everything lined up perfectly. I certainly agree though...I would prefer them attached between the tabs and was actually ready to cut and extend the blocks before I looked at the diagram, but decided to hold off and see if the rear mounted rock-shaft pans out at which time I'll re-do the lift-arms as well.

-Neil
 

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N
#23 ·
Decided to take a break from prep'ing for the 4th and went out to take another look at the lift arm placement. Moved them back between the tabs and lined everything up again. Looks like the 11-3/4 connecting pipe would work out to be 13-1/4 with this setup (taking into account the additional thickness of the flat bar that I used). So I think I'll go with Dave's suggestion and leave them between the tabs. By welding additional tabs to the existing lift-bar uprights I can bring the lift rods back into alignment and away from the rails. Thanks Dave !!

-Neil
 
#24 · (Edited)
Neil,
Do you have a good quality file copy of that diagram?
I would sure like to have one if it is available.

Also, I see that the diagram shows the single anti-sway bar, which is almost never found with a second-hand 3-pt hitch, and I have never seen anyone use.
Most just depend on the chains to minimize side-to side sway.

As to the location of the arms, my understandfing of 3-pt hitches (limited as it is) is that having more of a "V" to them is better than having them more parallel.
In the diagram above, although the arms are inboard of the mounting lugs on the axle, the anti-sway chains anchored are between the lugs, which transfers any side load to the opposite (pair of) lugs.

There happens to be a Bolens large frame 3-pt hitch on eBay right now, that actually has 2 anti-sway bars with it, but it doesn't include any lift rods.
 
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