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Interesting talk with my dealer about wheel weights

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#21 ·
I think it depends on what your going to do. Myself mowing hills and plowing snow I like wheel weights and loaded tires both. Load the tire's, bolt the weights on and its a done deal.

Suitcase weights would be a pain in the butt for me. Put them on take them off. But If I had a loader, a real loader, then I would have a weight box on the back or suitcase weights.

Tim

Even though your buying from him either way it's still a plus for him to sell you suitcase weights. You said it your self, there twice the price.

It's more about what you need or don't need vs what is better for the tractor. If you need the weight on the back and you don't have it, then tip over, that's hard on the tractor also.:ROF
 
#22 ·
My Ag tires have fluid in them. I will add extra weight to the wheels as shown. There is 70 pounds hanging there.
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The weight were purchase at wal mart a few years ago. I paid around $6 for each weight. Today they were $9.99 each.

This tractor hasn't had any problems with driveline breakage. The fluid weighs 60-70 pounds(calcium 23-10.5-12 tire) plus 70 pounds on left side and 40 to 70 pounds on right side. The tractor has a modified K321 motor that is making more than 20 horse power. This tractor isn't babied when it we use it. Picture of tractor without wheel weghts.
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#23 ·
Does anyone make wheel weights that bolt onto the wheel and rotate or 'float' on their own axle? The tractor's axle wouldn't have to deal with any more added torque than if the tires were filled with fluid if the weights were free to rotate on their own axle.
 
#24 ·
mark777 said:
Hey Tim,

Hardly an expert and my response may be challenged by others…but, I agree with your dealer (something I don’t do very often!).

Unless the tractor’s design compensates for axle width and added weight, the problem of undo outward stresses at the spindles and hubs is real. Physics of transmitting additional weight will change the load further from the manufactures design…and it will produce sheer stresses at the spindle, seals, race and bearing surfaces creating premature failure. Many of the earlier garden tractor models appear to be overbuilt and can handle the additional weight but many contemporary GT’s can’t support that option. Not a problem by adding forward and rear ballast close to center though.

Same holds true for many 4WD SCUT tractors by reversing the front wheels for a broader stance, especially those equipped with a FEL.

Mark
Click to expand...
I think that maybe your dealer should have said (maybe he did) that they are easier to remove when not needed. If someone puts wheel weights on there tractor they are more likely to be left on then, then having to remove them, it`s just easier, so there left on.
 
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#25 ·
FRISKY said:
Does anyone make wheel weights that bolt onto the wheel and rotate or 'float' on their own axle? The tractor's axle wouldn't have to deal with any more added torque than if the tires were filled with fluid if the weights were free to rotate on their own axle.
Click to expand...
Lead Sprewell rims. :thThumbsU

Almost as brilliant as the dual-stack slingshot.
 
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#27 ·
You know we are missing some important info here. Tim what are you putting the weight on??? I'm sure that someone has put weights on the same type of tractor and they can give you real information on how they work. Just a thought.
 
#28 ·
The only 'real' load for liquid filled tires is up/down any hill. There is a slight adhesion in the liquid, but not enough to be noticeable on our equipment. Whether the load is in the tire (liquid) or on the rim (wheel weights) there is no load on the wheel bearings or on the axle. But, suitcase weights are handy to use/not use (as stated) but may also be used to load front or rear. As also stated, each has it's benefits and each it's detractions. All my tractors have fluid filled rears + the cast weights and use chains year round. It's very hilly here. Dry summer weather is difficult to move around at times, winter would be impossible.
Captain Bob...
 
#29 ·
This thread has discussed weights/weighting from a general point of view because the OP failed to provide some key information and he remains conspicuously absent in this discussion. It's time for him to provide the following.

- what make and model of tractor do you own?

- are the rear wheel rims even drilled to accept weights?

- does the manufacturer offer wheel weights for your particular model?

- does the manufacturer offer suitcase weights and mounting bracket as an option or is this just the dealer's idea?

- has the manufacturer made any written comment in the Operator's Manual or elsewhere about the use of wheel weights or liquid ballast in tires?


One thing that you guys are missing here, IMHO, is "flywheel action". These tractors are often used in applications where there is a considerable amount of forward and reverse direction changes, such as plowing snow in the winter. Many of these machines are fitted with hydros that have sufficient strength for the tractor "as shipped" but may not stand up when asked to spin a much larger mass in the opposite direction again and again.

It's not hard to add 80 pounds of liquid to each tire plus another fifty to seventy pounds of cast iron wheel weight. That scenario puts a full 300 pounds of mass onto the two rear tires that will increase the contact patch and prevent wheelspin but it also adds 100 to 140 pounds of flywheel mass that the hydro has to contend with IF.....the tractor is not brought to a full halt at the end of every pass by use of the BRAKE.

Using the hydro to stop the tractor/change direction with the extra flywheel mass would obviously put stresses on the transaxle that the manufacturer never designed for. And just to be clear, I'm talking about the current generation of cast aluminum, unitized transaxles that are all too often sealed units and therefore not repairable/servicable.

Those of us with real garden tractors fitted with heavy duty cast iron transaxles shouldn't be all that concerned about loaded tires and wheel weights because most manufacturers of these types of machines offered wheel weights as a listed option in the sales brochures. So, rather than speculate on the motives of the dealer, let's get all the facts in first. For all we know, the dealer may be giving the OP excellent advice that will save him the cost of a new transaxle a year or two from now.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Hi,

No problems posting info on my unit. It is a 2008 Craftsman DGS 6500 with the K66 tranny. I have several purposes for the weight...one, is for general traction and stability as I tend to mow the culvert section at the front of my property (I do my neighbours as well...roughly 400 ft worth of cutting) and I feel somewhat uncomfortable driving on that kind of an angle, two, general traction as I am only running with turf tires on fairly sandy ground (I cut my own firewood out of the property and typically like to cut the tree into sections after I drop it, then pull the sections out to be cut near my fire pit), three, I have to prepare for my new JB jr (due tomorrow...YES) and I intend to do a fair bit of scraping/levelling plus put down 30 to 40 yds of topsoil, and finally, four, getting ready for the new Berco 48 inch snowblower.

As it turns out, I found a guy yesterday who had a brand new suitcase weight kit, from BercoMac, which I bought from him for $175.

Going back to my talk with the dealer, he didn't even give me a chance to tell him what I wanted the weight for, or the specific tractor I had...as soon as I told him I was considering the various weighting options, he said suitcase only.

After reading all the responses, I am still left wondering if the suitcase weights are all I need?

Thanks,
Tim
 
#31 ·
For what it is worth, I also own a 08 DGS6500, and just installed the wheel weights yesterday.
Their instructions (for what they are worth, perhaps this was advice first formulated with their old-iron) say:
to first add wheel weights (and chains) for traction. If the weights are not enough for snow plowing or loader use then you can get the sears rear weight bracket. (Yes, I was suprised to see the word "loader", they only sell a front scoop)

While installing the wheel weights, I noticed how the frame was a few inches narrower than the K66 mounting points, so there's essentially just a "L" bracket (seems long, but it might be OK) that holds the frame to the K66. They might still be correct about the wheel weights.

Although since I have a box blade, I always figured I'd have that attached as added rear weight when I was doing anything more heavy, and I might want to push some snow backwards or use the teeth to breakup dirt before scooping.
 
#33 ·
Merk said:
My Ag tires have fluid in them. I will add extra weight to the wheels as shown. There is 70 pounds hanging there.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

The weight were purchase at wal mart a few years ago. I paid around $6 for each weight. Today they were $9.99 each.

This tractor hasn't had any problems with driveline breakage. The fluid weighs 60-70 pounds(calcium 23-10.5-12 tire) plus 70 pounds on left side and 40 to 70 pounds on right side. The tractor has a modified K321 motor that is making more than 20 horse power. This tractor isn't babied when it we use it. Picture of tractor without wheel weghts.
Image
Click to expand...
Nice setup ! Now I'm gonna have to go do some fabricating .
 
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