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That really sucks Red! :thSick:
I hear so many folks whom take their gas powered tools, cars, trucks etc for repair, get it back and something else goes and ALWAYS blame the last repair/mechanic who touched it. I always try to reason with the person and explain it most always is circumstantial. They are just PO'd after dropping coin for repair then having it not function properly.
Unfortunately it's part of the territory.

MU

He says it want running top notch, which is pretty vague, but im guessing it was running correctly when picked up, or it wouldnt have been picked up.

4 weeks ago I did a fuel line, primer bulb, and minor carb kit on a Poulan chainsaw for a lady...saw ran like a top when I dropped it off to her (she lives really close), and I charged her, with tax, about 65 dollars.

Today i get a call, they went to use it and after about an hour, it shut off suddenly, and wont refire. I ride out and its flooded bad, I had a 5/16" nut driver in my truck, and a screwdrive,r so I popped off the carb, and one of the welch plugs covering the main nozzle had come loose and was sitting in the fuel chamber. I put it back in and tapped it in place...fired up and ran fine again.

Now, I NEVER remove those, simple because there is no point, and they sometimes do not seal right, and its easy to destroy the carb if you slip when removing them. But she was adamant it was my fault, simply because it was something id worked on...so I had to eat it.
 
Years ago I put a new engine on a simplicity RER. The original engine had a rod sticking through the block. Before I started I asked if anything else need repairing because a motor would have been almost more money than I would have put into it. I was assured it all worked fine. Simplicity used a 5 HP horizontal shaft Briggs at the very back of the rider. 4 bolts, change the pulleys and cables over and bolt in the new and attach the parts. Started it ran it for 45 minutes to give it some break in and called the guy saying it was done. Helped him load it on his trailer and took his money. One hour later he called and asked why we hadn't fixed the transmission, brakes and mower deck. Luckily I was very specific about what work would be done on the estimate but he apparently though he was getting a new rider for his $150 repair job. Roger
 
I'm a little confused about some of the advice above.

Why would an engine seize for a chain issue? Wouldn't the clutch protect the engine?

I do agree, when the chain stops, the engine bogs, etc.; any person with common sense is going to stop working and investigate, if for no other reason than the saw won't cut anymore, LOL...

Mike
 
The clutch drum rides on needle bearings, usually in a plastic bearing cage...if it overheats, or runs dry, the drum can drop down onto the clutch driver/shoes and lock it up tight.

Usually takes out the driver, drum, and crank seal, sometimes crank bearings....its not a good thing.
 
I'm a little confused about some of the advice above.

Why would an engine seize for a chain issue? Wouldn't the clutch protect the engine?

I do agree, when the chain stops, the engine bogs, etc.; any person with common sense is going to stop working and investigate, if for no other reason than the saw won't cut anymore, LOL...

Mike
Standard procedure, when the chain stops...hold the trigger wide open until something melts, or breaks...or the engine stops. Ive literally watched people take a brand new saw, start it...(w/brake on) and hold it wide open until the clutch broke, or the case started to melt...

Common sense goes out the window when you put a saw in someone hand...I dont care how experienced they are, Ive seen pro woodsman put chains on backwards and smoke a chain/bar before they thought to investigate...no kidding.
 
Thanks guys.

Good points, Red. Lots of people with tons of experience hurt themselves or others (badly) with these things too. Sometimes you're just in the zone, or more likely tired, or in a rush, leading to emotionally-directed (illogical) decisions.

Mike
 
I'm a little confused about some of the advice above.

Why would an engine seize for a chain issue? Wouldn't the clutch protect the engine?

I do agree, when the chain stops, the engine bogs, etc.; any person with common sense is going to stop working and investigate, if for no other reason than the saw won't cut anymore, LOL...

Mike
Using a dull/improperly sharpened chain will fry a saw just about as fast as anything else.
 
A chainsaw engine is about the least forgiving piece of OPE there is, due to the power per cc they put out and the rpm they turn. Fuel mix and quality, users skill and common sense, and skill of the tech who sets it up and works on it determine how long it survives. I have seen "factory trained" techs take a cold saw, start it rev it wot 2 or 3 times and then set the H side to spec. What they don't realize is the saw isn't even close to operating temp, which is bad enough for the piston/rings but the saw will be way lean when it gets to temp. Now the guy picks it up, seems to run good, puts it to work then after a few cuts the saw starts getting leaner, a few more long cuts in a good size log and bam, fried top end. And guess what the dealer says when he goes back?
 
Generally, saws are tuned at the factory to safe specs that will at the very least give it good power and get it well beyond the 2-3 year warranty, and any lean problems are more apt to show up on a cold saws, that is less efficient than a tight, hot saw.

there are exceptions, the largest Echos for instance, require tach tuning by a technician.

But 250+ hours of use...thats not a warranty problem (and he isnt saying it is), so he must assume it is a problem that occurred while it was there for repair, and also something that allowed it to run good for a while..and not show signs of fault before seizing...personally I cant think of anything.
 
Using a dull/improperly sharpened chain will fry a saw just about as fast as anything else.
Well, I was originally thinking about a bound chain. How does a dull chain affect the engine?

Mike
 
I tend to be pretty anal about sharpening mine after every tank of gas, learned that from my FIL. Pushing is a waste of energy, just takes it from slipping to stopping.

Don't know that I'd blame the blown engine on the chain though (although in any case, the root cause is operator error)...

Mike
 
A Dull chain will tend ot overheat, and burn off the guide bar oil, running it metal to metal, and also the pressure from the operator, can quickly overheat one, Ive seen them come in with dull chains and melted plastic covers, burned wires, seized pistons, and so on...
 
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