I have a 11hp briggs model 252707 and I am getting no spark at the plug. The starter works and spins motor fine but no fire at plug. Is it maybe the alternator or the ignition module coil? How can you test the alternator under the flywheel and how can test the ignition coil with a multimeter if this might be the problem?
briggs and stratton 11hp-no spark
yellowcat
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
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I have them in stock both OEM Briggs and Rotary After market.
OEM Coil and prices Aftermarket Coil (it is a Stens coil on the site but I'd send Rotary instead)
OEM Coil and prices Aftermarket Coil (it is a Stens coil on the site but I'd send Rotary instead)
There is alot of "you get what you pay for" but often its not a matter of being 100% faulty, even with cheap stuff. Its usually an issue with longevity.
Stens coils sell for like 44 dollars retail, I usually cut it down to like 35 if I sell it in the shop and install it, or sell it for 40 outright. And even at those prices, Im not selling it for much more than Im paying for it. So if the ebay dude is selling a coil for 18 bucks, he cant be paying more than 12 for it, and I dont even think wholesale on a reputable brand is that low, so there is no telling where he is getting them.
OEM sells somewhere around 44 dollars, or more if you buy from a specilized dealer under a brand...like cub cadet, poulan, etc...
So, 18 is a great price, and it should work....but for how long, who knows...
Stens coils sell for like 44 dollars retail, I usually cut it down to like 35 if I sell it in the shop and install it, or sell it for 40 outright. And even at those prices, Im not selling it for much more than Im paying for it. So if the ebay dude is selling a coil for 18 bucks, he cant be paying more than 12 for it, and I dont even think wholesale on a reputable brand is that low, so there is no telling where he is getting them.
OEM sells somewhere around 44 dollars, or more if you buy from a specilized dealer under a brand...like cub cadet, poulan, etc...
So, 18 is a great price, and it should work....but for how long, who knows...
Shees, all this fuss about a coil. The flywheel turns clockwise looking down on it. The magnets pass a laminate leg, the trigger then the coil and final laminate leg. ALL CDI coils I ever saw for B&S engine have the Kill Wire on the bottom.
I never buy a new CDI, I have batches of good ones from engines that have been salvaged.
Walt Conner
I never buy a new CDI, I have batches of good ones from engines that have been salvaged.
Walt Conner
Exactly. its upside down as ever in the pictures.
i keep a few good used ones on hand, mainly for tecumsehs and kohlers, but I dont keep alot of briggs coils, used...I got bit on one years ago, i took it off a smoking push mower, kept it in my toolbox, some time later a lady needed one for her mower..i told her it would be like..35 for a new one, she said she wouldnt put that into the mower...but I had already serviced it...crap...so I sold her the used one for 10. A week later she was back, madder than a wet hen...thing wouldnt start, no spark. I put on a new coil and it fired right up, the old coil wouldnt work on another engine i had in the shop either..DOA.
never had that problem with honda, tec or kohler...ever, just briggs.
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971 Posts
I flipped the ebay china coil over today and what happened???? She got some sparks. :trink40: Why though would they build a coil replacement that is made totally different and not include in the box there is a certain way to install the darn thing. The old coil and new china aftermarket $18 special are made a lot different. What was also stupid is that the wrong way the kill wire is long enough to make it to the throttle plate kill. Flip it over and the wire does not reach the throttle plate...had to splice the darn thing with another wire that was longer. I wish I new who manufactors these coils I purchased.
I'm having trouble with my briggs 8hp. It is model 196437-1041-e1. It quit last fall and I am just getting around to working on it. It has spark at the plug and the plug fires but gas poured into th carb all I get is backfires. The carb has been rebuilt and I don't know what else to check, don't really want to buy a $100 carb with out knowing for sure what the problem is.
any chance that you sheared the flywheel key? or you may have popped a valve seat.
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971 Posts
You have to pull the head off and just look at the valve seats to see if they are ok.
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971 Posts
Disconnect your connecting rod and try turning.
I got more into it, everything in the crankcase looks alright so I pulled the flywheel and found 3 magnets loose and part of the alternator crushed and therefore jamming the fly wheel, got any leads on a alternator ring?
I really don't like this motor but I am learning a lot
Gary
I really don't like this motor but I am learning a lot
Gary
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
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