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Hechinger Wont Start

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#41 ·
Try this..just for giggles.

If the bottom red wire is from the clutch switch..

Take off the top red wire....and short that terminal to ground with a screwdriver, and try the key.
 
#44 ·
I have to admit, this is difficult, Your mower wireing isn't rocket science. Please make sure to practive safety by disconnecting the battery (-) terminal. A LGT battery can provide 200 amps easily, and bad things can happen.
Once you get everything connected back up, touch the (-) battery terminal with the ground wire to the battery, if no sparks, connect it and test your re-wire.
 
#45 ·
Switch may just be dirty or not fully engaged...manually operate it, check for power to it as well.

With a test light grounded, you should be able to hit both sides of each switch and get power, if the switch is working, moving it on and off should make the light go on or off as well, with the key turned to START obviously.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Sometimes a picture helps.

You've verified I believe, if you ground one small lug of your two lug solenoid, and apply 12 volts to the other, the engine cranks. Is that correct?

The next step would be to verify if the ignition switch delivers 12 volts, less than 12 volts, or nothing to the non-grounded lug of the solenoid. If 12 volts, the engine should crank. If less than 12 volts, you have poor connections somewhere, or a poor ignition switch. If nothing then you have either an unsatisfied interlock, or a bad ignition switch.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
D-Dogg said:
Sometimes a picture helps.

You've verified I believe, if you ground one small lug of your two lug solenoid, and apply 12 volts to the other, the engine cranks. Is that correct?

The next step would be to verify if the ignition switch delivers 12 volts, less than 12 volts, or nothing to the non-grounded lug of the solenoid. If 12 volts, the engine should crank. If less than 12 volts, you have poor connections somewhere, or a poor ignition switch. If nothing then you have either an unsatisfied interlock, or a bad ignition switch.
Click to expand...
Yes thats correct I can apply the top spade wire and touch it to hot side of larger stud on the solonoid the engine will spin. The clutch pedal switch is new, blade switch is new, and getting continuity on the reverse switch when checking the ohms on it. Voltage is jumpy up and down then stays at 10v on the "S" wire on the switch. I'll clean it or/and try a new switch.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Once he gets it cranking , will it start? I have to check my MTD wiring but on a NOMA the seat switch is such that off seat the switch is closed and grounds the coil. So if you jumper the two wires together it's like having a closed switch and there will be no spark and dav.... says he jumpered the seat. (seat should not affect crank/nocrank). Anyway he can always start a new 'no spark' thread.

Just looked at schematic for my 1985 model 832 and there is no seat switch in it. I have an 95 handbook that shows the 800 series wiring with it. It's something on my plans to upgrade it's safety wiring.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
38racing said:
Once he gets it cranking , will it start? I have to check my MTD wiring but on a NOMA the seat switch is such that off seat the switch is closed and grounds the coil. So if you jumper the two wires together it's like having a closed switch and there will be no spark and dav.... says he jumpered the seat. (seat should not affect crank/nocrank). Anywaym he can always start a new 'no spark' thread.
Click to expand...
I got the parking brake on as I wa told the parking bypasses all the safety switches. I can always unjumper the plug that goes to the seat switch.
 
#50 ·
davbell22602 said:
I got the parking brake on as I wa told the parking bypasses all the safety switches. I can always unjumper the plug that goes to the seat switch.
Click to expand...
looking at 95 800 wiring it looks like mtd style seat switch grounds right at the switch so taking wire off should disable it , whether or not you jumper the wires. the 2 wires are just from different safety circuits coming to a switch whereas in Noma's they are the one circuit passing through a switch
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
38racing said:
looking at 95 800 wiring it looks like mtd style seat switch grounds right at the switch so taking wire off should disable it , whether or not you jumper the wires. the 2 wires are just from different safety circuits coming to a switch whereas in Noma's they are the one circuit passing through a switch
Click to expand...
Ok, I'll take the jumper off the plug in for the seat switch.
 
#52 ·
38racing said:
Once he gets it cranking , will it start? I have to check my MTD wiring but on a NOMA the seat switch is such that off seat the switch is closed and grounds the coil. So if you jumper the two wires together it's like having a closed switch and there will be no spark and dav.... says he jumpered the seat. (seat should not affect crank/nocrank). Anyway he can always start a new 'no spark' thread.

Just looked at schematic for my 1985 model 832 and there is no seat switch in it. I have an 95 handbook that shows the 800 series wiring with it. It's something on my plans to upgrade it's safety wiring.
Click to expand...
I recommend wrestling one alligator at a time. :biglaugh: Did you get it to crank with the solonoid?
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
RED-85-Z51 said:
Try this..just for giggles.

If the bottom red wire is from the clutch switch..

Take off the top red wire....and short that terminal to ground with a screwdriver, and try the key.
Click to expand...
RED-85-Z51 said:
Switch may just be dirty or not fully engaged...manually operate it, check for power to it as well.

With a test light grounded, you should be able to hit both sides of each switch and get power, if the switch is working, moving it on and off should make the light go on or off as well, with the key turned to START obviously.
Click to expand...
Nothing on either of those suggestions.
 
#56 ·
The Screwdriver is taking the place of the solonoid. You need a (+) signal from the key switch to the small terminal, and the Solonoid Grounded.
 

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#57 ·
From the previous pictures posted, it is a real possibility.
 
#58 ·
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Thanks to all for your help. While Larrybl posted last 2 posts I was on phone with Dixie tech support since I bought harness from them. They told the top red wire with eyelet that had on top spade terminal goes the pos terminal on the battery because it provides power to the key switch through "B" terminal. So I did that. They told that funny lookin terminal on the other red wire slides/presses on the spade terminal so that goes on the top spade on the solonoid(they assumed I had 1 spade solonoid). So did that. So move all the tools off the flywheel then turn the key and it spins over with key switch now.

Still not certain if the blades will come on since I dont have seat with built in seat switch on it though.

I must be half way dead. I'll be completely dead when I get other mtd going that RED has been helping me on.
 
#60 ·
One Alligator down, Good Deal! :fing32:
 
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