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#21 ·
Just for an assured Ground on my RED tractor, I dasied chained a ground wire from where the Battery (-) cable connected to the frame, to the Solonoid Mounting Tab, to the sub frame, to the enging block, to the (-) side of the electric PTO.

Some of the Craftsmans are notiorus for bad grounds.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
larrybl said:
Just for an assured Ground on my RED tractor, I dasied chained a ground wire from where the Battery (-) cable connected to the frame, to the Solonoid Mounting Tab, to the sub frame, to the enging block, to the (-) side of the electric PTO.

Some of the Craftsmans are notiorus for bad grounds.
Click to expand...
You mean the older GT models? I have one of those with a bad ground. I started a topic on it too couple months ago.
 
#24 ·
Simply Ground one terminal...... See Below.

The Green Wire comes from the ignition SW.
The Black Wire to Ground.
 

Attachments

#25 ·
#27 ·
Yep, you have a mess.
1. Two Reds to the Batt, beggs to be connected backwards.
2. The AMP meter wire should be red too.
3. Looks like you have two small positive wires to the Solonoid.

Do you have a volt meter?
 
#28 ·
Remove the (2) small red wires from the solonoid. Remove Both.

1. Place a volt meter or test light on one of the red wires, Connect the Volt meter / test light black wire to ground and turn the ignition to "start"

2. Do the same for the other red wire.

3. Connect the one that shows 12V or lights the test light to the solonoid.

4. Ground the other solonoid terminal.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
larrybl said:
Remove the (2) small red wires from the solonoid. Remove Both.

1. Place a volt meter or test light on one of the red wires, Connect the Volt meter / test light black wire to ground and turn the ignition to "start"

2. Do the same for the other red wire.

3. Connect the one that shows 12V or lights the test light to the solonoid.

4. Ground the other solonoid terminal.
Click to expand...
Neither one has 12volts. The one red wire on top near the fuse will turn the engine if touches the red pos cable to the battery.
 
#30 ·
I wish I was there, 2 minutes with the test light and it would be good as gold...its so hard to troubleshoot non-factory wiring over the computer.
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
According to the wiring schem for that Model...

1 wire solenoid.

The S wire comes off the ign switch, goes to the seat switch, then to the PTO switch, then the clutch switch, and finally to the small post on the solenoid.

You can use the solenoid you have, by getting 12v to the one wire..and grounding the other.
 
#36 ·
RED-85-Z51 said:
According to the wiring schem for that Model...

1 wire solenoid.

The S wire comes off the ign switch, goes to the seat switch, then to the PTO switch, then the clutch switch, and finally to the small post on the solenoid.

You can use the solenoid you have, by getting 12v to the one wire..and grounding the other.
Click to expand...
:ditto: For the third time.
 
#38 ·
Green wire from S terminal on switch, to the seat switch.

Yellow wire from seat switch to the PTO switch

Red wire from the PTO switch to the clutch switch

Red wire from clutch switch to solenoid

Then there is a Yellow Wire "Teed" into the wire between the seat switch and the PTO switch, it shorts to ground, so it is the "Neutral" switch.
 
#40 ·
yes.

From the diagram, based on where it is located, it appears to be the neutral switch, and it appears as it can prevent cranking.

If any of the switches do not complete the circuit, it will not crank. But you will have to take one of the posts on the solenoid to ground regardless.
 
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