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Gravely 8199-KT repower

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Discussion starter · #121 ·
I finally made the plunge.. engine is on its way.

Here's what I have coming:
http://tewarehouse.com/GX690-TDW

They have free shipping so it's about $1400 my cost.

I got the exhaust flanges from Bruce G.

Now I just need the mufflers, I've been searching but I haven't found yet.
I think my cost is going to be around $1550 when I'm all said and done.

___________________________________________
For those of you who just want a bolt on solution, you can pay around $1750 + shipping (look for their ebay auction, they have free shipping offered there.)
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=385447-Gravely-4-R1
 
Discussion starter · #122 ·
#124 ·
Since you will need to fabricate an exhaust system, I would look at the stainless pipe and mandrel bent fittings available at Vibrant Performance. It would be relatively easy to run the exhaust straight out the back ala 818T. Done right, the only weld would be the flange. The "Gravely" mufflers available almost everywhere are cheap and mostly effective.
 

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Discussion starter · #125 ·
I must say thanks to Bruce again for getting me the Exhaust manifold parts and neoprene gasket. Talk about ultra turbo fast shipping. THANKS BRUCE!!

Engine is in place. Choke cable is hooked up. Throttle cable needs to be replaced. I've been working on getting the cable out of the dash, but the lever is spot welded into the dash. I'm trying to just remove the cable from the lever mechanism. Anyone know any good tricks to do this? It looks like I'm going to replace the battery cables and fuel line for good measure too.

Does anyone know what to do with the gear case? I probably ought to change that oil in there. What does it take, SAE 30 or 75w90w gear lube? How much?

Should I drain and fill the Hydraulic lift? What does it take? SAE 30, or HyTrans?

Should i keep the Amp Meter, or change it out with a Volt Meter?

If I have time, I'm thinking I'm going to start the motor tonight! I can't wait to get off work!

-Brandon
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
NeoCole said:
I must say thanks to Bruce again for getting me the Exhaust manifold parts and neoprene gasket. Talk about ultra turbo fast shipping. THANKS BRUCE!!

Engine is in place. Choke cable is hooked up. Throttle cable needs to be replaced. I've been working on getting the cable out of the dash, but the lever is spot welded into the dash. I'm trying to just remove the cable from the lever mechanism. Anyone know any good tricks to do this? It looks like I'm going to replace the battery cables and fuel line for good measure too.

Does anyone know what to do with the gear case? I probably ought to change that oil in there. What does it take, SAE 30 or 75w90w gear lube? How much?

Should I drain and fill the Hydraulic lift? What does it take? SAE 30, or HyTrans?

Should i keep the Amp Meter, or change it out with a Volt Meter?

If I have time, I'm thinking I'm going to start the motor tonight! I can't wait to get off work!

-Brandon
Click to expand...
I always tell people, have you tried to "Google it?" I found most of my answers online already using Google.
Transmission Oil Specification 10w-40 Motor Oil
Capacity 6 qts.
Hydraulic Fluid Specification ATF Type A, Suffix A
Capacity 1.5 qts.

It seems odd to me that the transmission is using motor oil, I'm sure Gravely had their reasons.

I'm still not sure if I'll change the Amp meter...

-Brandon
 
#127 ·
Pry the cable housing out of the holder which is part of the lever assembly. You can use a screwdriver to spread the "pincers" of the holder so the cable comes out more easily. Then you just rotate or move the cable to maneuver the kink in the cable through the hole in the lever. Reverse the procedure to install.

Straight 30W oil in the transaxle. 5 or 6 quarts. Just leave the cap off the check port and fill until it starts coming out of the port.
 
#128 · (Edited)
NeoCole said:
I'm trying to just remove the cable from the lever mechanism. Anyone know any good tricks to do this?

Does anyone know what to do with the gear case? I probably ought to change that oil in there. What does it take, SAE 30 or 75w90w gear lube? How much?

Should I drain and fill the Hydraulic lift? What does it take? SAE 30, or HyTrans?

Should i keep the Amp Meter, or change it out with a Volt Meter?
Click to expand...
To remove the throttle cable, I take the 1/4"-NF bolt and nut loose (the bolt it threaded into the bracket welded to the dash) and pull the handle and cable center out. Then spread the fingers holding the sheath and remove sheath. Installation is the reverse. I lube the new cable by pulling the center out and coating the center with grease or graphite. New cables gall easily without some sort of lubricant. The center of the new cable has to be pulled out a few inches from normal travel when cutting the new cable to length anyway.

Gear case takes motor oil. 30 wgt, 10-30, or 20-50 are all good. Never use 90 wt. The PTO clutch is bathed in oil and 90 wt is just too much for that.

The hydraulic system takes ATF.

Ammeter or Voltmeter? Personally I like a voltmeter better. I can tell the very instant I turn on the ignition if the tractor is going to crank. I can also tell if it is charging or not. Some would argue that an ammeter is better but I have learned to interpret a voltmeter and find it more useful. In the end it is a personal choice. It really does not matter. If you do decide to get a gauge, I recommend VDO instruments. They are IP66 (water and dust resistant) rated and are reasonably priced at $23 for the Vision series voltmeter.

Image

VDO Vision Voltmeter
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Voltmeter12&Series=Vision&PN=332-103

The VDO Viewline Marine series also has a warning light built in.

Image

VDO Viewline Voltmeter - $40
 
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#130 ·
NeoCole said:
Ok... Here's what I have for a Volt Gauge:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Marin...5085801?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item35bbdcf169&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_956

Can I use Synthetic Oil in the Gear Case? I was thinking of some Mobil 1 15w-50.
Click to expand...

I'm running Shell Rotella T full synthetic 5w-40 in my transmissions and I love it. I've also run it for years in sport bikes that I drive HARD. My tractors have over a hundred hours a year on them in the hot south running full on for 2.5-3 hours at a time and I haven't experienced any issues. 15w-50 Mobil 1 would be fine in my book.
 
#131 ·
I have been running Castrol 20-50 for over 20 years with no issues. Full synth is OK but in an older engine or transmission, the seals could start to seep. Had that happen to one of my Audi engines. Took a long time for it to quit seeping once I changed back to "All Natural" oil. I haven't used synthetic since.
 
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#132 ·
What size hole is needed for that Honda gauge?
 
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Discussion starter · #133 ·
Richard-tx said:
What size hole is needed for that Honda gauge?
Click to expand...
I googled around before I bought it.. I couldn't find it.. I saw that it was marine and thought maybe they followed the standard hole size. I really hope I didn't waste my money. I'm also looking at replacing the hour meter with one of those combo LCD hour meter/tachometers.
 
#134 · (Edited)
There are a few standard sizes for gauges. Some of the most common sizes are:

1-1/4"
2-1/6"
2-5/8"
3-3/8"
4-3/8"

I would not get one of those LCD hourmeter/tach units. Now *that* is a waste of money. When I was looking for a LCD gauge there were very few to choose from and what I found was that they operate off an internal battery. When the battery is dead, so is the gauge as the battery is not replaceable. In the end I bought a VDO gauge.

Image
 
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#136 ·
The VDO gauges usually come with 3 different colored lights. Clear (white), red, and green.
 
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#137 ·
gravelymay said:
Hi Brandon
You may have what you need in the way of a adapter.
I have exhaust flanges that fit the 24 Honda .
also can get the flange made so you can use
The 20555 adapter off of the 12Hp Kohler & 16 Briggs.
If you have a 32164 adapter on your Kohler 19 is it a series ll
It will fit most of the late model engines :thThumbsU

E-mail gravelymay@yahoo.com
Or
Call me at 423 716 4611.
Thanks Bruce g
Click to expand...
Here is a picture of a 20555 with a new style ring in it .
Just use a gasket that comes off 8 hp Kohler engines
to transmission adapter gasket. 15718
 

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#139 ·
gravelymay said:
Hi Neocole

Here is a link to the process where I repowered a 8163B to a 24 Honda .

Oops, there was an error! | Gravely Tractor Message Board

A 24 HP Honda from Northern Tool is $1449.
There is also a Briggs Engine for about $1800.

I looked at the 20 Diesel
The bolt pattern will work 32164 adapter.
The problem is crank size.
You need a Crank 1 1/8 X 3 3/4 to 4 inches long
I believe This Diesel is a 1 inch dia.
You will have to move the Muffler.
Call if I can Help 423 716 4611
Thanks Bruce g
Click to expand...
Where can you find a 32164 adapter?
 
#140 ·
...just fyi, this is a 7 year old thread, and Neocole hasn't logged into the site since 2012 or so. That user is unlikely to response.

You might consider making a new thread with your problem/request.
 
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