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Anyone following the NOS Rear Tiller auction?

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#3 · (Edited)
They will fit a G but the devil is in the details. Many other parts have to be scrounged to make it work on any tractor. Putting it on a G series is tougher. There is the elusive and rare G series axle block needed, the drop box hanger, driveshafts, liftable rear hitch, etc. I figure that it may require an additional $500 in other bits and pieces before it is functional.
 
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#5 ·
I've said budget $600 to $800 for a complete rear tiller setup, but that's for a 800 or 8000 with old style clutches. For newer 8000's or G's, that's getting closer to $900 to $1200. You can buy everything, piece by piece, but it's those last little "golden pieces" that will run the cost through the ceiling. Just like Richard said.
 
#6 ·
The rear tiller is a two edged sword. While it works well, I find that unless a very large garden is planned, it doesn't make sense except when tilling in the spring or fall. The reason is the row spacing required. The tiller hangs off one side of the tractor so that has to be added to the track width of the tractor plus a few more inches for plant growth. When maximizing the allotted area for a garden, the two wheel Gravely tractor reigns supreme in comparison.
 
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#7 ·
Richard-tx said:
The rear tiller is a two edged sword. While it works well, I find that unless a very large garden is planned, it doesn't make sense except when tilling in the spring or fall. The reason is the row spacing required. The tiller hangs off one side of the tractor so that has to be added to the track width of the tractor plus a few more inches for plant growth. When maximizing the allotted area for a garden, the two wheel Gravely tractor reigns supreme in comparison.
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It's realy on good for breaking ground or turning things under. Too big for week control.
 
#8 ·
Speaking of which, has anyone found a good source for tiller tines? They are pricey from Gravely.
 
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#11 ·
arcam8123 said:
For rear mount tiller? I don't think they exist any more.
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They probably don't...not from Gravely anyway. I really don't want to go through the grief of making them but if I have to I will. If I make them I would like to make them from tool steel. Then harden and temper them. Overkill is underrated. :thThumbsU
 
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#12 · (Edited)
NBS said:
BTW, did we ever figure out whether these would fit on a "G"?

It seems like there was a problem with clearance somewhere.
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It works great on a G. The long wheel base makes it even easier to operate.

The only tough piece to get is the axle block with the adjustment bolt tab for the forward clutch. I have it installed on an older G with drum steering brakes.

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#13 ·
arcam8123 said:
I've said budget $600 to $800 for a complete rear tiller setup, but that's for a 800 or 8000 with old style clutches. For newer 8000's or G's, that's getting closer to $900 to $1200. You can buy everything, piece by piece, but it's those last little "golden pieces" that will run the cost through the ceiling. Just like Richard said.
Click to expand...
I've managed to score two of each of the rarest Pro-G parts, which are the axle block and the lift hitch itself. They are out there but it took me 2.5 years. Each of the axle blocks were included in parts lots and once I re-sold what I didn't need they ended up costing $50-100 each. The lift hitches I managed to get for about $200 each but there was extra $$ in shipping and travel involved.

The tiller itself, plus the gearbox/prop shaft came on the 816 I bought two years ago. I paid $500 for the whole shebang, which I figured meant I was getting the tractor for free based on what the tiller was worth. As you know from my 816 thread, the tractor itself ended up having way too many problems but it lives on in my 816 project and I've sold parts from it which recouped at least half what I paid.

So I've probably spent around $5-600 for my rear tiller setup.
 
#14 ·
yamato72 said:
I've managed to score two of each of the rarest Pro-G parts, which are the axle block and the lift hitch itself. They are out there but it took me 2.5 years. Each of the axle blocks were included in parts lots and once I re-sold what I didn't need they ended up costing $50-100 each. The lift hitches I managed to get for about $200 each but there was extra $$ in shipping and travel involved.

The tiller itself, plus the gearbox/prop shaft came on the 816 I bought two years ago. I paid $500 for the whole shebang, which I figured meant I was getting the tractor for free based on what the tiller was worth. As you know from my 816 thread, the tractor itself ended up having way too many problems but it lives on in my 816 project and I've sold parts from it which recouped at least half what I paid.

So I've probably spent around $5-600 for my rear tiller setup.
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I figure there are four ways to get a rear tiller setup (or anything else for that mater).

1. Buy a tractor with a tiller on it. This is great if you can find one and need the complete setup. If you already have a tractor, this is expensive.

2. Buy the whole package at once. This works if you know what all needs to be there. It's hard to find a complete package and it going to cost you.

3. Buy it piece by piece. This will take a long time. It will be the most expensive way to buy it unless you are willing to wait a long time for the rare deals.

4. Buy groups, collections, tractors with the parts you need and sell the stuff you don't need. This can be cost effective and in the long run, it can be the least expensive way get what you need. You just need investment capital and a sales venue or two or three.

The first tiller I bought I used method number 2. I paid $750 for a system that would work on a G, but I was tilling and happy. My second one I used method 3. I held out for the bargains. It only took 4 years.
 
#15 ·
Richard-tx said:
The rear tiller is a two edged sword. While it works well, I find that unless a very large garden is planned, it doesn't make sense except when tilling in the spring or fall. The reason is the row spacing required. The tiller hangs off one side of the tractor so that has to be added to the track width of the tractor plus a few more inches for plant growth. When maximizing the allotted area for a garden, the two wheel Gravely tractor reigns supreme in comparison.
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That makes a lot of sense to me. You would really need to space those rows to use the rear tiller as a cultivator. Even the width of the riding tractors seems a bit much for cultivating. Maybe I really do need to get a two-wheel tractor just for that.

Or can you get a miniature cow that tastes good? I've seen those petting zoos that have the tiny horses and such. Get a yearling in the spring, use him to pull a tiny cultivator in the garden, compost the poop, let him eat the yard, then butcher him in the fall when the crops are in. Now that's sustainable agriculture.
 
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