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Can Toro 22040 handle 3600 RPMs?

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paulgp602

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
As you may know, I bought a 22040 with the Suzuki 2 cycle engine. When I got the mower, the throttle cable was out of adjustment as well as the governor spring being stretched (apparently common on these motors).

I got the throttle cable dialed in and governor spring adjusted shorter which now lets me vary the throttle all the way up to 3600 RPMs (WOT).

The mower seems happy at this RPM and goes nicely in 1st gear. For some reason the spec'd 3000 RPMs (which is about 1/2 throttle as the governor spring is adjusted now) seems to lazy to my ears lol.

Can this motor handle 3600 without doing long term damage? Seems fine to me, I just want to be sure. I have 160 psi compression (motor cold at WOT) and would hate to do anything to muck up this motor! Thanks!
 
#2 · (Edited)
My thoughts...run it at the specification. And run very little faster. I actually run my LB slower than spec because I like the way it sounds. It sounds easy. It sounds mellow. When they run too fast they sound "nervous".

"DISCLAIMER" There is absolutely NO technical knowledge in this post.

'edit'...actually, if you want to... get a guitar tuner and tune it to a note that you like. I've done that and it can be pleasing. If 3000 sounds odd, find a note on the tuner that is near that and see what you think.

Here...try this... http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=128297&highlight=lovelearn
 
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#3 ·
Well, having rebuilt the motor on my suzuki, i can tell you that you arent going to run the risk of throwing a rod like a lawn boy motor as the suzuki has a steel connecting rod with the crankshaft pressed around it, so its going to take some real bad abuse to break that rod. Now what i can tell you is that might run the risk of overheating and overloading the bearing on the big end and small end of the rod as well as the crank bearings. That motor will have no problem running at around 3600 rpm except im not to sure of the bearings. Hope this helps!
 
#4 ·
Personally, i would be more concerned with the rod like you mentioned IMA, over the bearings. If the rod is a single piece and and steel like you stated, the bearings should not see any problems from the speed. 2 piece aluminum like a LB, would be short lived I could almost guarantee.
 
#7 ·
Is there a real need to run 3600? I run mine at around 3100/3200 and I can cut almost anything within reason. I have another that I can crank up to around 3600 but its more than I'm comfortable with for any length of time.
 
#8 ·
I think I set mine, via giving the spring a little stretch, at about 3400 with the blade spinning. (it's a BBC). Only reason I wanted it to the high end is for bagging wet grass, the more RPMs the merrier to get the grass thrown into the bag as best as possible. Only problem is the toro deck is poor at bagging in wet grass, so I've been using my 10651 LB with a side bagger, that's working good!
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Why set it to 3600 you ask? I'm a gearhead/tinkerer as I'm sure many of you can relate, so I'm always toying with my OPE lol.

The manual states 3.5hp @ 3600 RPM, but then it goes on to say when adjusting the governor, that 3000 +/- 150 RPMs is the setting. Its confusing.

I just set it on the lowest governor arm hole (was on the top one prior). Now I am getting around 3050 RPMs at WOT. Seems more calm to me now and I like I can set the throttle at full, which there is a notch for the throttle lever to click into, and not have to worry about over revving.
 
#11 ·
echoman said:
I'd go for about 3200, assuming you have a tach to use. I wouldn't sweat 3250 or so, but wouldn't want to go above 3300. Just my .02
Click to expand...
I have all my 'Zuks set to 3200 rpms. I think that is way sufficient without risking running something at long durations with way more RPMs than they are designed for. Although you have a ton more RPMs doesn't necessarily mean you are making MORE power up there. The port timing, stroke and piston speed all have to come into play to deliver USEABLE power. I think it you are settling it down to around 3000-3300 you will decide that there is nothing that engine can't cut at those speeds.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
The middle hole gets me around 3400 RPMs, so I left it on the lower hole which is about 3050. I can probably dial it in closer to 3200 if I bend the spring some more but I don't want to risk snapping it. I figure 3050 to 3200 is only another 150 RPMs and won't make much difference when mulching.
 
#13 ·
paulgp602 said:
The middle hole gets me around 3400 RPMs, so I left it on the lower hole which is about 3050. I can probably dial it in closer to 3200 if I bend the spring some more but I don't want to risk snapping it. I figure 3050 to 3200 is only another 150 RPMs and won't make much difference when mulching.
Click to expand...
Dont stretch the spring, just drill a very small hole in the arm between the two upper and lower rpm holes.. Ive done it with all mine and it works great and keeps the solid gold spring $$$ from being damaged
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
I priced a new governor return spring at $3 bucks. I may fiddle with it to hit 3200. I figure if I ruin it its 3 bucks to replace it.

I don't have a decent set of bits to drill another hole. I got to get a set I been meaning to just haven't gotten around to it.
 
#16 ·
paulgp602 said:
I priced a new governor return spring at $3 bucks. I may fiddle with it to hit 3200. I figure if I ruin it its 3 bucks to replace it. I don't have a decent set of bits to drill another hole. I got to get a set I been meaning to just haven't gotten around to it.
Click to expand...
It's tiny hole. A small bit at the local ACE woul dbe probably <$2.00.
 
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#17 ·
I have mine set at 3420 and have a new gov spring in the package waiting. Not going to mess with mine because its older and the spring is not made anymore unlike the $3 springs. I feel fortunate to have found a NOS one on ebay for like $12 shipped.

I know Wolfy said in your other thread that his can run all day on a thimble full of gas....mine must be a gas guzzler but that's ok. The suzuki seems to be able to drink last years gas without missing a beat....I end up dumping gas from the other small equipment/snowblower into the Toro in order to get rid of it without wasting.
 
#18 ·
In the 2001 edition of the Toro Landscape Products catalog that I have, all of the 2-cycle Suzuki equipped Toro walk-behinds have a blade tip speed of 18,050 fpm.

To translate fpm to rpm: (FPM x 12) / (pi x blade length) = engine RPM. For a 21" mower with a 18,050 fpm, engine RPM comes back from the equation as 3283, round up to 3300.

~Ben
 
#19 ·
All the literature will always have rpm ratings dictated solely on OSHA specs and not the motor's capabilities.

The crank bearings are rated for 18,000 rpm's so that's not an issue. I believe the same engine when mounted on a snowblower runs at over 4,000 rpm's (richer pilot because its cold out for snow which gives the motor slightly more oil but it handles the rpms fine).
 
#20 ·
Mantas said:
All the literature will always have rpm ratings dictated solely on OSHA specs and not the motor's capabilities.

The crank bearings are rated for 18,000 rpm's so that's not an issue. I believe the same engine when mounted on a snowblower runs at over 4,000 rpm's (richer pilot because its cold out for snow which gives the motor slightly more oil but it handles the rpms fine).
Click to expand...
Great post, thanks! (My toro powerclear 221QR (R*Tek 141 cc) has no throttle, and runs 4,100 as soon as I start it ! It is LOUD :trink40:)
 
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Mantas
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