Engine Restoration Questons

sgokie · Apr 9, 2012

Hi folks! I'm well into my Snapper 30113S restoration, and most of the chassis has been put back together. Now comes the engine restoration.

The engine was running pretty well considering it sat unused for 10+years. I removed and cleaned the carburetor, and have ordered a rebuild kit. I'm also replacing rusted out exhaust system with new. I've removed the engine cowlings, and am in the process of cleaning & repainting.

I also want to repaint the engine, but with 20+ years of gunk to remove in order to prep for paint, I really need some advice:

1) What is the best way to clean/degrease the engine? I spent 3 hours removing the heaviest deposits by hand with some degreaser and a wire brush, but there are places (cooling fins especially) that I can't reach. I've got a power washer, but logic tells me high pressure water and engines don't mix. Any recommendations?

2.) When priming and painting, should I use a high temperature paint?

Any other tips/tricks for engine restore would greatly be appreciated. The attached pictures are an example of the current state of the engine paint. Thanks!!!

Walt 2002 · Apr 9, 2012

As far as paint is concerned, I would go light on that, remember paint insulates the engine decreasing heat dissipate making the engine run hot. I use a light coat of barbecue grill paint if necessary.

Walt Conner

Whirly · Apr 9, 2012

right Walt....best idea....

if u wanna do a good job....remove the flywheel....& other stuff from the block....make a couple plates to go over the intake & valve access holes....use a little gasket sealer when u install then...then powerwash....then wash engine with gas or rubbin alcohol (do this outside away from any sparks or flames)...do all parts u removed too...then reassemble after painting...block can b black on a Briggs....the parts & tin can b white...

NOVAZ27 · Apr 9, 2012

This may sound strange to everyone but plain old white vinegar cuts grease like crazy. Runs about $2.50-$3.00 a gallon at your local market. Check this out on the web. You will be suprised. I have used it to clean up carb. parts. Soak in vinegar, not to terribly long rinse. Worth a try. Stong acidic odor. If it does not work for you then the wife can make pickles or clean the coffee pot out with it. Removes rust also.

WORTH A TRY.

BOSMECH · Apr 9, 2012

If you have access to a parts washer that is the best if not get a big square plastic bucket or tub and get some carb cleaner and then use a brush and scrub, then after that clean with alcohol (or naptha or thinner) and then clean again with alcohol the trick or should I say for the best results everything must be spotlessly clean and oil free.
Then do 2 nice light coats of paint allowing each coat to dry well and the last coat allow
to dry for 24 hours then assemble your new baby.

sgokie · Apr 10, 2012

Not my lucky day...

After some more cleaning on engine, I noticed a problem with the alternator connector wire that snakes underneath the engine flywheel. The wire was missing sections of insulation along with a couple of frayed areas. At first I thought I might just take some heat shrink tubing, snake it up the wire and fix it that way. But then after seeing all the grime underneath the flywheel, thought what the heck I'll pop the flywheel.

Watched a couple of how to videos on YouTube and got started. Had already removed debris cover for painting. Removed top of top of starter clutch housing as well as ratchet assembly, ball bearings and washer. Now let's see...WD40 on threads of crankshaft for an hour. Next, video had showed to take soft, blunt chisel with mallet and lightly tap in counterclockwise motion to back bottom starter clutch housing off threaded crankshaft end. Whack, whack, whack and snap! One of the wings of the bottom housing broke off!:crybaby:

Any suggestions without completely trashing bottom housing cover? I'm already going to order a new one, along with alternator connector assembly...I just don't want to trash anything else.

sgokie · Apr 10, 2012

Ahem....never mind...

Just learned an important lesson in applying force using the correct angle. I turned the engine on its side, applied a couple of correctly angled taps with blunt end of chisel and it came off with no problems. :drunkie:

Am going to HBT tomorrow and get bolt puller set in attempt to remove flywheel.

raying:

NOVAZ27 · Apr 10, 2012

Please get a proper removal tool such as an Arnold FP-125 flywheel removal tool as shown in pic. I think I got mine at Wally World years ago. Amazon sell theirs for less than $4.00. Works great on B&S engines. The one in the pic is from Ace hardware. Probably made by Arnold for Ace. Tractor Supply also comes to mind as a source for Arnold parts. As far as removing the starter clutch assembly a large cresent or pipe wrench with the jaws opened up enough to hold the four ears on the clutch firmly. Take a hammer and tap the wrench handle smartly enough in a counter clock wise directon to loosen the clutch. Leave KING KONG in his cage so as to not tear things up. You might consider a new clutch at this time. Lightly grease the cranksnout before installing the clutch.

HOPE THIS HELPS

sgokie · Apr 10, 2012

NovaZ27...thanks for the warning and the picture. I couldn't find that specific tool in town, but I did locate a Lisle Harmonic Balancer Puller set on sale and used it instead. The flywheel came off very easily with no King Kong effort. (and no damage!!!):fing32:

Although everything else on the starter clutch assembly looked to be in good shape, I think I'll take your advice and replace the whole clutch assembly. Fora about $9.00 more than just the bottom housing, I get the entire housing, clutch and seal.

I'm also going to replace the alternator connector under the flywheel while it's apart. Better safe than sorry.

As far as painting the engine, I think I'm going to try something a little different with the paint mixture. Up to this point, I've simply been using rattle cans, but I'd like to try my hand at using my friends HVLP sprayer. After watching several videos, I think this might do a better job.

I've been using basic Rustoleum for the white areas of the restore and not really been that pleased with the result. Even light coats seem to go on pretty thick...not something I want around the engine...as well showing quite a bit of orange peel. I'm thinking that if I thin out the paint and use a couple very light coats, I might achieve a better, more durable finish. More than that, I just want to see if I can do it.

raying:

sgokie · Apr 11, 2012

Engine Primed

Today, I cleaned the engine with pressure washer, degreaser, alcohol based paint prep (X 2) and lint free rag wipe down until clean. I then masked off the areas not wanting to paint (esp. cooling fins) and primed. Still determining the type of paint I will use.

Thanks for help, more later.

NOVAZ27 · Apr 11, 2012

Just a thought here why not just use automotive engine paint from Dupli Color or Krylon. It will take the heat from an engine plus it is pretty good at being oil & gas resistant. I agree several light coats is better than 1 heavy coat. Remember to grease the crank snout when you install the new clutch. The new clutch may already have grease inside the square drive. The reason I am stressing this is that the crank is spinning inside the idleing square drive while the engine is running. When there is'nt any grease there that clutch will screech like a Banshee. Very hard on the ears/nerves.:swow:

GLAD TO HELP.

Walt 2002 · Apr 11, 2012

sgokie said:
Engine Primed

Today, I cleaned the engine with pressure washer, degreaser, alcohol based paint prep (X 2) and lint free rag wipe down until clean. I then masked off the areas not wanting to paint (esp. cooling fins) and primed. Still determining the type of paint I will use.

Thanks for help, more later.

The paint I recommended is self priming. I cautioned you before about too heavy a coat of paint because it will cause the engine to not dissipate heat.

Walt Conner

Dude11 · Apr 11, 2012

Cleaning & prep looks good! A thought on paint--plain old rattle can paint will take up to 500deg.I'm not sure what oper.temp is,but wouldn't think it's that high.Anyway,that's what I use--never had a problem.I do use hi-temp black on the exsh.pipe & muffler.It'll go to 1200deg.Just tape off your elect.connections & kill switch on throddle plate(kinda saves going back and scrapeing later).:trink40:Older snaps had white eng.I think they look best.

BOSMECH · Apr 11, 2012

I agree with the guys just a rattle can will do fine, but you did say you wanted to give the HVLP sprayer a try so go for it, it will do just as good of a job or better.
Nice work also, keep us posted with pics.

rscurtis · Apr 11, 2012

You can't go wrong with the Briggs&Stratton factory color spray cans.

sgokie · Apr 11, 2012

Thank you all for the comments.

I've changed my mind about using the HVLP sprayer. If I was just starting the whole project (chassis and engine), I would probably try this setup. However, considering what very little painting I have left to do and the setup required to use this type of painter, I'm gonna finish with rattle can. Maybe next project...

I learned a very important lesson with the white paint application, and that is don't use old cans that have been sitting on the shelf for a year +. They clog, spit and generally do a terrible job of applying a smooth coat. That's what I did on a couple of parts the other night, and I regret it big time. I went through 4 old cans before I found one that sprayed well. :banghead3

Walt, I tried some high temp white I had used on another project, and I didn't like the gloss I was getting. I may also have experienced some of the same problems with this paint as that mentioned above. While the picture doesn't show it, I spent a lot of time taping off the areas of the engine that the factory left unpainted to hopefully avoid any kind of engine heat retention issues.

rscurtis, in all the lawnmower and paint stores I've visited during this project, I have yet to see any B&S factory paints. I'm really kind of limited in selection (and experience in where to look), although if I'd thought ahead (I'm not real good at that) I could have ordered some online.

Dude11, thank you. If my restoration turns out to look only half as good as any of yours, I'd be a happy man. My hat's off to you and the wonderful restorations you do! :thThumbsU I'm putting on new exhaust system as other was rusted through.

NovaZ27, funny you should mention auto engine paint. When at parts store buying flywheel puller, I told the clerk what I was doing and that was his suggestion as well. He stated that not only is the paint more heat resistant, but that the application nozzles that come on the cans are of a much high quality than off the shelf big box store cans. Sure, it's a little more expensive, but in the long run the time saved and quality result are worth it. I think this is the route I will go.

Thanks again to all of you. I'm taking this weekend off for friend's wedding and to re-introduce myself to my wife...she says I'm obsessed.

sgokie · Apr 12, 2012

Made some progress tonight. Engine painted using rattle can Rustoleum Engine Paint. Turned out pretty good with no orange peel.

While I was at it, I rebuilt most of carburetor (hi & lo, float needles, float bowl gasket) then lightly painted. I know someone else has asked this question before, but I can't find the answer....so here goes:

In third picture, Where does the little green gasket go? For the life of me, I can't find anywhere that is supposed to be placed on my carburetor. :dunno:

Thanks!

NOVAZ27 · Apr 12, 2012

It has been a while since I have had to work on one of these carbs. But if I recall correctly??? there was a very small gasket that went in the main needle housing that the main needle went thru. It was used to help keep the needle from rotating out of adjustment due to engine vibration. From you pic it is difficult to determine the actual size of the gasket in ??? Like I stated it has been awhile.

HOPE THIS HELPS

BOSMECH · Apr 12, 2012

That turned out great, as for the gasket I will try to look it up and yes it is difficult to determine from the picture.

Whirly · Apr 12, 2012

ok....there r several places where that lil green gasket can go...it may b in the hole where the carb float needle seats on.....or....it may b at the top of the main throttle butterfly shaft...(to seal up any leakage there)....or.....round the center bottom main gas needle that goes up thro the float bowl cover...

that engine looks like it is an older one with points & condenser under that rond cover at the top of the engine....points r set at .020 when open...most old engines like this will burn the point contacks areas....u can use emery paper to file down smooth & reinstall & readjust gap...also....the flywheel key is a soft Alum. key....made to sheer real easy if engine is stopped real quick...do not use a steel key there.....

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