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Fix Ingersoll or buy new...

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#161 ·
Turned out to be a fairly interesting thread. This will be good info for anyone that doesn't do their own work. Lots of tips and tricks to look for when you go and pick something up that has been worked on for you. It's hard to find someone you can trust and that knows anything about combustion engines in general.
 
#162 ·
wurkenman said:
Turned out to be a fairly interesting thread. This will be good info for anyone that doesn't do their own work. Lots of tips and tricks to look for when you go and pick something up that has been worked on for you. It's hard to find someone you can trust and that knows anything about combustion engines in general.
Click to expand...
I too had not realized just how long this thread was when I responded to a post. Sorry.

I try not to be "that guy" who has to blurt out the price or cost of everything he buys or does. But engine rebuild costs is an area that most people have a lot of questions about and are generally very wary of. I figured that offering the parts and labor costs would be something beneficial to anyone considering having a machine shop do a short block rebuild vs. buying the tools and attempting to do it themselves.

As far as aftermarket vs. Kohler OEM parts goes, I originally told the machine shop I wanted Kohler. When he came back with prices, he said that Kohler OEM would be more than double the cost. He was very happy with the parts supplier that he uses and has had no issues with quality. It was my choice. I opted to save some money and went with aftermarket. I know that some are very strident about Kohler OEM and I certainly appreciate that. For me, I just wanted to have my engine run like it was supposed to and not cost me any more than necessary to get it that way.

Hope everyone is enjoying their Christmas day. I`m off to my in-laws for the afternoon.

Mike in Maine
 
#165 ·
If that was the exhaust valve it tells the entire storey of what happened to your engine. The piston chipping was actually caused by being overheated. Looks like the engine was running lean and heat built up burning the piston and valve. The burned side of the piston was probably facing the exhaust valve. Have seen it in several Kohler engines. When this happens the engine slowly loses power and will usually stall out when the mower is engaged.
 
Discussion starter · #168 ·
There is a difference of opinion on the most probable cause of my damaged exhaust valve and piston. I would be interested in understanding what other posters might think. This way I can hopefully help prevent the damage in the future.

The first mechanic said the damage was caused by turning off the hot engine at full throttle with no low throttle cooling down period. I admit I never did any cooling down period. I went from full throttle to off all the time. The no cooling down period was acknowledged as a likely cause by the second mechanic.

Now there's an opinion that this damage may have been caused by an over lean gas mixture. I can't say I'm very knowledgable in that area.

I can say that I had no issue with "Engine missing and backfiring at high speed" - which is the condition listed in my manual as being associated with too lean a mixture. I never touched the adjusting screws on my carburetor the 18 years I owned the tractor.

For what it's worth I did get a little carbon staining on my hood near the exhaust pipe exit. No "engine sluggishness" or constant black smoke while running, so I presume that amount of carbon staining is normal and I did not have too rich of a mixture, according to conditions listed in the manual.

My second mechanic did adjust the carburetor settings as part of his overhaul.

In your opinion, is there any other thing I can do over the years, besides an engine cool-down, to prevent this damage from happening again?

Do you think it was no cooling down period or too lean a fuel mixture that caused the exhaust valve and piston damage?

Regarding my valve seats. They were perfect. The cylinder wall was perfect. These are very well-built engines and I encourage refurbishing these well-built tractors.

:thanku:
 
#169 ·
Ingy,

Best advice I can give is what dad always taught me to do, drop the throttle to idle and let her idle for a couple minutes before shut-down. Even a minute or two helps the block, heads and all the internals get to a slightly cooler state while still getting lubed.

Think of it this way, do you shut your car off with the throttle on the floor? Probably not, you pull into your driveway/garage put it in park, then shut it off, same basic theory for your tractor.
 
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Discussion starter · #171 ·
The original owner left the manual so I've read through it a couple of times. It's been a helpful reference.

The commentary on Page 21 has always made me chuckle...

"You are the owner of a Case tractor. You have a machine that is made to high standards.

Preventative maintenance is important to you.

Preventative maintenance is the easiest and most efficient way to keep your tractor working good for many hours of operation..."
 
#172 ·
Ing222 Congrats on staying the course. Best learning you'll ever get, even though it's pretty "uncertain" while you're going through it. Kudos as well on your overall attitude as reflected in your comments here as you went through the process. I'd have needed a bottle of valium to keep from squeezing the original mechanics head into a new shape. Again, congrats and hope you enjoy your "New" tractor for many more years...

-Loco
 
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Discussion starter · #173 ·
Applyed my new decals from www.maplehunterdecals.com They even took the time after the sale to make me a decal for my grill that wasn't originally included. Nice people.
Ingy is looking great. Bought a new battery and it fired right up. First time I didn't have to use starting fluid and a battery charger to get it going in years. Mowed just the septic field at 3/4 throttle - cut through it like a hot knife through butter. Looking forward to my first full cut in a week or so.
The repair job was an adventure. So far so good.
When I look back, I was lucky I looked under the engine after mowing for a while after the first mechanic brought it back after the starter install. It was leaking oil like a sieve and it may have ran out if I had not caught that. It was below the dipstick level. I believe I got a tip from here to stay vigilant right after the repair.
A game of inches. It could have had an unhappy ending last year. Grateful for all the help.
 
#174 ·
222guy - Exhausting thread! That definitely would have tried my patience.

I'm thinking of buying a 222, which should have the same engine as yours. Could you give me the name of the second mechanic you used? Or the name of the antique tractor club? I'm South of Port Huron, but frequently work near the Western burbs.

Assuming I go ahead with the purchase, I'm looking to build up a list of suppliers, mechanics, etc. both for the Case and a Mitsubishi I picked up last year.


Also, to anyone else -

My choice on "new" machines is either the Case 222, with a snowblower and deck, or a 1989 Wheel Horse 252, hydro, kawasaki 12 hp, rear bagger. They're the same price - $500

The Case deck may need a little work, but the machine does not.

The WH supposedly is well cared for, although the owner says there is a pinhole in the deck. Which I interpret as trouble on the underside of the deck.

The bagger with the WH is appealing, but it's not a must-have option.

I haven't seen either one yet, hope to this week. If they are fairly equal as far as condition goes, which one would you go with? My yard isn't flat, so the quality of the cut (keeping the deck parallel to the ground) would be an issue.

Thanks,

Pete
 
#176 ·
Do not confuse that Wheel Horse 252 with the older more robust Wheel Horse tractors. There is no comparison. I would take the Case any day over that model Wheel Horse.
 
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Pete215
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