3000 series with slow drive speed

ryker · Jun 6, 2011

I picked up my second 3000 series this weekend. Very right on the price. 3205 20hp liquid cooled kawi with 54" deck. 221hrs. One owner with recent 300.00 in service and new pto.

I tested it several weeks back but once i got it home it was very slow. And the steering is tight. Full of fluid but looked like air bubbles. If I do the reverse / forward repetition once I go forward is has a bit more pep but only briefly. It does seam like it slows down slightly going up a hill.

It should have had new fluids and filters.

My 3240 is also slow but this 3205 is even slower. I know my 3240 with 1200hrs is just showing it's use. My little 2135 looks terrible but will run circles around my both my big 3000s

Is there a method to bleed air or make adjustments?

Gary in NJ · Jun 6, 2011

The 3000 series should be self purging. Keep driving it until 1) it improves or 2) stops all together. If number 2 happens I was wrong.

Seriously, it is a self-purging system. It is not unusual to see "foamy" oil after a fluid and filter change. But it usually clears within 30 minutes of use.

ryker · Jun 6, 2011

I used it for over an hour and no improvements.

Looks like a tranny rebuild.

on a $7000.00 machine with only 221hrs and always dealer services.

I had read something about lifting the drive wheels off the ground. Then purging the system with full reverse and full forward repetitions.

Gary in NJ · Jun 6, 2011

ryker said:
I used it for over an hour and no improvements.

Looks like a tranny rebuild. on a $7000.00 machine with only 221hrs and always dealer services.

I had read something about lifting the drive wheels off the ground. Then purging the system with full reverse and full forward repetitions.

Before declaring a tranny rebuild, I would replace the drive fluid and filter to see if the condition clears. It's possible that you have a defective or clogged filter.

It's certainly worth a try. What year machine? You may be able to run Rotella T in the tranny (I do in my mine and it's a 2000 model year).

ryker · Jun 6, 2011

Should be a 1999-2001 model.. ?? It's a 3205

I run mobil1 20w50 in my 2135. I'm of the mindset that a wee bit thicker oil may help on a machine with some wear.

gcbailey · Jun 6, 2011

does it have the right transmission filter???

ryker · Jun 6, 2011

I'd assume since it was serviced by a dealer- it's on my list to check and replace if needed.

gcbailey · Jun 6, 2011

ryker said:
I'd assume since it was serviced by a dealer- it's on my list to check and replace if needed.

you know what happens when you assume

But ya, since it was serviced by a deal, you would "assume". I honestly don't know if the 3000 use a different filter than the 2500's or not, maybe it was a screwup that way?

txcowrancher · Jun 7, 2011

Wow
I just was about to post about the same problem i am having when I saw this post.

I have a 3235 with 400 hrs that just had the entire hyd system lose pressure. took to dealer who ran some checks and says that the pump is not putting out any press at all. A new pump is $1000 just for the part. rebuilt cost not known yet since its not been taken apart yet.

Anyway so we just went and bought another cub its a 3225 with 440 hrs with the thought that buying a second tractor for the price of repairing the first tractor makes sense. paid 1200 for the running tractor

The new to us 3225 we just got is also running slow but the hyd seem ok as far as power steering and deck lift. so I am hoping this new tractor does not alos have a pump going out.

if the slow going means a bad trany then I can steal the trany from the first tractor with the bad pump

question....will the the nuetral adjustment procedure in the service manual help to make it go faster in fwd in exchange for going slower in reverse ??

so the first thing to try on the slow tractor is a new filter/fluid ??
thanks

quickrch · Jun 7, 2011

txcowrancher said:
Wow
I just was about to post about the same problem i am having when I saw this post.

I have a 3235 with 400 hrs that just had the entire hyd system lose pressure. took to dealer who ran some checks and says that the pump is not putting out any press at all. A new pump is $1000 just for the part. rebuilt cost not known yet since its not been taken apart yet.

Anyway so we just went and bought another cub its a 3225 with 440 hrs with the thought that buying a second tractor for the price of repairing the first tractor makes sense. paid 1200 for the running tractor

The new to us 3225 we just got is also running slow but the hyd seem ok as far as power steering and deck lift. so I am hoping this new tractor does not alos have a pump going out.

if the slow going means a bad trany then I can steal the trany from the first tractor with the bad pump

question....will the the nuetral adjustment procedure in the service manual help to make it go faster in fwd in exchange for going slower in reverse ??

so the first thing to try on the slow tractor is a new filter/fluid ??
thanks

On your tractor with no hydro...consider taking the fender assembly off and checking out the gerrotor assembly on the aux pump. It is easy to get to and they have a habit of breaking. There are a few posts about this in the forum. If it is broken you can do the repair yourself for under 300 with two changes of hydro fluid.

thunderbirl · Jul 24, 2012

This link came up in another thread, so rather than highjack the georotor rebuild thread, I'll post here.

My thoughts are:

1. The georotor is turning and pumping.
2. Something is not right.

Here's a list of what's been mentioned and what I can think of...

If the fluid level is low, the machine will barely crawl. Is the fluid level high enough - i.e., on the dipstick?
If the filter is not a hydrofilter, but an oil filter, the check valve may be inappropriate.
The hydraulic fluid is innappropriate. It should be an oil - not hytran.
I cant find the link - but somewhere there was a discussion about some tube not connected well that sucked air. Air in the hydro fluid could result in a compressible liquid that wouldn't work efficiently.
The pedals have an adjustable linkage to connect to the transmission. They may need adjusting.
The pedals have plastic bushings that can impact "throw" and speed.
The georotor could be bad - not broken, but not able to generate pressure for some reason. Maybe a bad shim?
The filter for the georotor could be plugged.

Can you cross any of this off??

WNYTractorTinkerer · Jul 24, 2012

Nice list Thunder:fing32:

Sticking relief valve or pressure release..

ryker · Jul 31, 2012

:thanku: for the help

I replaced the gerotor. It appeared to be ok. Still not any faster. Removed the transmission disengage lever. Still not faster. :dunno: Adjusted the main linkage that runs down the middle and got wide open speed but slow reverse. Readjusted and located a missing pin. So now she runs correct speeds.

But now- the stiff steering remains. :crybaby: ?

With the machine apart I sanded all rust. Used rust converter. Rattle can painted the floor pans and rear section. Looks pretty good for a rattle can spray job. Will be mixing up two part truck Bed liner to use around all rust prone areas.

Zip tied the brake safety start switch. Removed the seat safety as well. Also reverse pto disengaged.

JDfiles · Jul 31, 2012

ryker said:
But now- the stiff steering remains. :crybaby: ?

Steering is purely hydraulic. Either that circuit isn't pressurized or it needs bled out.

3000 series with slow drive speed

ryker

Gary in NJ

ryker

Gary in NJ

ryker

gcbailey

ryker

gcbailey

txcowrancher

quickrch

thunderbirl

WNYTractorTinkerer

ryker

JDfiles

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