I started my tractor for the first time since the beginning of winter and it cranked the first try. I cut some grass for a little while and turned it off. When I tried to restart the battery was dead. After checking I found the regulator was stuck closed and boiled a lot of the water from the battery. I put another battery from my boat in it and it starts right up. My question is the alternator puts out 14 volts at idle and goes up from there. When I raced it up some it was putting out 17 volts. With the dead battery it put out 24 volts. Is that high voltage normal and will it go down with a new regulator. Also is there a cheap alternator with a built in regulator that would work better and mount relatively easy
charging system
cottontop
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Hey, NOT a problem. I will make sure to steer clear of your threads in the future. You might ask Mark where he got all the parts books to be able to be so helpful....seems they were donated to him years ago for that purpose by a dealer who just tells people to spend money on an inferior product. Not sure why you would expect someone who makes a living selling the parts to take the time to walk you through a process to avoid buying their parts. I think if you take the time to read on here you will find many places where we have been helpful to folks with a problem....but yes, we're not going to use our time to help someone avoid buying a part from us. I'm guessing you've never operated a business...or at least not one that made money.
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When I wrote that the stock part is "inferior" I did not mean that it wouldn't last 30 years and provide excellent service. Obviously the stock parts are not "inferior" in that sense, which is how I think you took it.
I've wanted to add additional lighting on my tractor for the last two years, but haven't been able to since a well functioning factory setup does not provide enough amperage to run much more than factory lighting. I've been interested in a setup that will produce twice the output of the stock alternator (which again is durable and does what it is supposed to do), so I can add in three additional lights and a radio in the canopy of my tractor.
I've wanted to add additional lighting on my tractor for the last two years, but haven't been able to since a well functioning factory setup does not provide enough amperage to run much more than factory lighting. I've been interested in a setup that will produce twice the output of the stock alternator (which again is durable and does what it is supposed to do), so I can add in three additional lights and a radio in the canopy of my tractor.
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If I haven't been blacklisted.. I guess I'll soon find out.. have a question about the stock alternator.
I had mine tested today at Autozone. they had to rig up something because none of their connections fit the Yanmar alternator. Anyway - when the alternator was spinning the voltmeter was jumping all over.. 7v to 10 to 12 to 9 to 7, ect. Should I expect a steady 12-13 volts? If they stop working do they produce no power at all?
I had mine tested today at Autozone. they had to rig up something because none of their connections fit the Yanmar alternator. Anyway - when the alternator was spinning the voltmeter was jumping all over.. 7v to 10 to 12 to 9 to 7, ect. Should I expect a steady 12-13 volts? If they stop working do they produce no power at all?
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If the RPM is constant and high enough, you should see a steady volt reading (around 25+/- Volts maximum). Erratic readings could be from poor or temporary connections. I've never seen a Yanmar magneto fail (other than the bearings) as there is nothing more than a string of permanent magnets and copper wire coils.
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Is it more likely that the regulator bit the dust? I'm not sure how I can rig up a system to test at home..the tractor & part of the engine is apart at the moment (valve cover gasket replacement).
I bought the 1-wire GM alternator and a universal bracket, but it looks like I will also need some kind of pulley to get around the lower radiator hose.
Just need to get this going one way or another by tomorrow or Thurs. at the latest.
I bought the 1-wire GM alternator and a universal bracket, but it looks like I will also need some kind of pulley to get around the lower radiator hose.
Just need to get this going one way or another by tomorrow or Thurs. at the latest.
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Yes, IMO, the voltage limiter/regulator is bad.
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire2.shtml
This is page two of an attachment with illustrations for the wiring of a one wire alternator. Should be all you need to do the electrical:
http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire2.shtml
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In reading that article the author says that 1-wire alternators are designed for systems that only need a battery charger. Part of the reason for wanting to upgrade the factory 15a AC alternator is to be able to run more lights and possibly a radio.
Am I going to get into trouble running accessories with the GM 1-wire alt?
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No, no problems as the battery is what supplies the additional voltage to accessories.
The higher the demand from the battery is matched by the alternator, plus it will power it back to it's fully charged voltage (approx 13.6 V). Once the system requirements are met the alternator will run static and produce voltage sent to ground (-) until the internal regulators sense voltage drop.
The only difference with the 3 wire alternators is the internal regulators are different and do supply a regulated line to existing generator/alternator lamps and/or gauges (IIRC).
The higher the demand from the battery is matched by the alternator, plus it will power it back to it's fully charged voltage (approx 13.6 V). Once the system requirements are met the alternator will run static and produce voltage sent to ground (-) until the internal regulators sense voltage drop.
The only difference with the 3 wire alternators is the internal regulators are different and do supply a regulated line to existing generator/alternator lamps and/or gauges (IIRC).
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Ok thank you. I have to find a way to hook up the larger GM alternator.
I found that the same dynamo (thin) generator is used on many Kubotas, and that Kubota offers an alternator upgrade kit for these generators. I don't know much about the kit: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ums/kubota-owning-operating/97846-alternator-replacement-kit-dynamo-kubota.html
I found that the same dynamo (thin) generator is used on many Kubotas, and that Kubota offers an alternator upgrade kit for these generators. I don't know much about the kit: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ums/kubota-owning-operating/97846-alternator-replacement-kit-dynamo-kubota.html
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I am interested in upgrading my 15 amp dynamo on my 2020D.
Runningbird - do you have any pictures of your install on the 2020 you upgraded? Was it a 1 or 3 wire install? What alternator did you use? I was reading that the Datsun alternator has been used for a direct replacement on tractors with a true alternator...Not sure if that is an option for mine with a dynamo.
Runningbird - do you have any pictures of your install on the 2020 you upgraded? Was it a 1 or 3 wire install? What alternator did you use? I was reading that the Datsun alternator has been used for a direct replacement on tractors with a true alternator...Not sure if that is an option for mine with a dynamo.
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I'm sorry but I don't have pictures of the 2020d exchange. I sold that tractor. I used the one wire gm alt. which I found on ebay. I remember that on the 2020 I used a couple old bushings about 1/2" thick on the bracket to get the pulleys to line up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTE...tem20b881980bQQitemZ140534454283QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
this is a link on ebay to the one I have used in the past.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTE...tem20b881980bQQitemZ140534454283QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
this is a link on ebay to the one I have used in the past.
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Did your setup have to stick outside the hood to fit?
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Thanks Runningbird. Did that alternator fit in the same space as the dynamo? On the 2020 there is a coolant by pass hose right behind the dynamo so I assumed I would have to fabricate a bracket and mount it higher.
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Scotty,
Before I investigated this fully I bought a full sized 1-wire - no way it will come close to fitting in the factory location. The one I have would doubtfully fit above the U hose.. I breifly thought about sticking it outside the hood to the left,but imagine all the dirt & trash that would get clogged up.. and debris, branches, ect from the loader arm could damage it.
I haven't found any 'mini' that is narrow enough to go in the stock location. There are some pics on another board of someone who mounted one above the U hose, but they did some custom fabrication to make it work.
Before I investigated this fully I bought a full sized 1-wire - no way it will come close to fitting in the factory location. The one I have would doubtfully fit above the U hose.. I breifly thought about sticking it outside the hood to the left,but imagine all the dirt & trash that would get clogged up.. and debris, branches, ect from the loader arm could damage it.
I haven't found any 'mini' that is narrow enough to go in the stock location. There are some pics on another board of someone who mounted one above the U hose, but they did some custom fabrication to make it work.
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I've asked Hoye to sell a kit for this.. told them there are lots of Yanmar owners who would be willing to pay a good price for a bolt-on 40a alt. kit.
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I used a bracket that I would describe has a 1/2 "C". Any mopar 440 or 383 motor used this bracket. I happened to have quite a few around the house.
I think I used a longer coolant hose has well. hard to remember exactly, but it did all fit under the hood.
I will also let you know that I did this because I had a FX22d at the time that I was putting that alt. on. When the 2020 went out I just figured I would give it a shot. I was not in a hurry so I took my time and played.
have you checked into getting the Dynamo rebuilt? with a good battery I think they work well, and last a long time.
I also did this conversion on my FX28 which was a direct bolt on, no modes needed. Same with the FX22.
I think I used a longer coolant hose has well. hard to remember exactly, but it did all fit under the hood.
I will also let you know that I did this because I had a FX22d at the time that I was putting that alt. on. When the 2020 went out I just figured I would give it a shot. I was not in a hurry so I took my time and played.
have you checked into getting the Dynamo rebuilt? with a good battery I think they work well, and last a long time.
I also did this conversion on my FX28 which was a direct bolt on, no modes needed. Same with the FX22.
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I asked Hoye to do the same...LOL.
I like the idea of having a three wire so that I can get the idiot light to light in case of an issue but a one wire mini that fits in the the same space as the dynamo and requires a few washers etc for modifications is probably the way to go...have to think about that.
In my case, I will have an externally mounted after market voltage guage so I can see if I have a problem and quite honestly knowing if I have a voltage problem isn't a great concern of mine since the tractor is always near another battery in case I need a jump.
Another thought about the idiot light....I would think that is wired directly from the regulator and lights when voltage is low????? True?
If the stock external regulator is removed and the wire from the idiot light is extended to the battery - and a low voltage situation arose .....wonder if that would light the light???? Anyone know if thats true?
I like the idea of having a three wire so that I can get the idiot light to light in case of an issue but a one wire mini that fits in the the same space as the dynamo and requires a few washers etc for modifications is probably the way to go...have to think about that.
In my case, I will have an externally mounted after market voltage guage so I can see if I have a problem and quite honestly knowing if I have a voltage problem isn't a great concern of mine since the tractor is always near another battery in case I need a jump.
Another thought about the idiot light....I would think that is wired directly from the regulator and lights when voltage is low????? True?
If the stock external regulator is removed and the wire from the idiot light is extended to the battery - and a low voltage situation arose .....wonder if that would light the light???? Anyone know if thats true?
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Our dynamo "alternators" are actually AC generators.. the regulator accepts the AC voltage (ranging from ~14 up to ~29 at high RPM) and spits out ~14v DC.
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1,013 Posts
Here's the 1601d engine where the dynamo bolts in.. looks nearly identical to the 2020 setup.
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this is the GM 1-wire I bought before figuring out that we need a much smaller alt to fit up. Huge.
![Image]()
this is the GM 1-wire I bought before figuring out that we need a much smaller alt to fit up. Huge.
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