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cottontop

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I started my tractor for the first time since the beginning of winter and it cranked the first try. I cut some grass for a little while and turned it off. When I tried to restart the battery was dead. After checking I found the regulator was stuck closed and boiled a lot of the water from the battery. I put another battery from my boat in it and it starts right up. My question is the alternator puts out 14 volts at idle and goes up from there. When I raced it up some it was putting out 17 volts. With the dead battery it put out 24 volts. Is that high voltage normal and will it go down with a new regulator. Also is there a cheap alternator with a built in regulator that would work better and mount relatively easy
 
#2 ·
cottontop said:
I started my tractor for the first time since the beginning of winter and it cranked the first try. I cut some grass for a little while and turned it off. When I tried to restart the battery was dead. After checking I found the regulator was stuck closed and boiled a lot of the water from the battery. I put another battery from my boat in it and it starts right up. My question is the alternator puts out 14 volts at idle and goes up from there. When I raced it up some it was putting out 17 volts. With the dead battery it put out 24 volts. Is that high voltage normal and will it go down with a new regulator. Also is there a cheap alternator with a built in regulator that would work better and mount relatively easy
Click to expand...
The model of your tractor is important. I can't make it out on your picture. Don't know which alternator or regulator we are talking about. My 2002d has a solid state regulator, sounds like yours is mechanical. Some folks do change to other alternators but again tractor model is important.
 
#3 ·
Cottontop,

As much as I think that Yanmar OEM parts are the best fix, one thing I think is a great improvement is the conversion to a GM alternator. The expense incurred replacing the voltage regulator/limiter, rebuild-replace magneto and everything else associated with the original electrical charging system is, most often, more than converting to the GM alternator...which has it's own built in VR (diodes). Very durable and the swap isn't too difficult, provides double the output and allows for the use of additional add on equipment (work lights front and rear, radio, etc.)

Here's a link that may prove useful...and there are several Google links showing various conversions:

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

The above link shows the differences of a one wire and three wire GM alternator conversion...
 
#4 ·
I guess you need to define "cheap". The actual replacements, designed to match the OEM parts, are 65 for the alternator (+20 core charge) and 77.85 for the regulator on a 2210. Compare that to JD pricing of 430 and 115 for similar parts on a 650 tractor. We often see them go out on a tractor, but seldom a second time. Keep in mind that your original parts are pushing 33+ years old. That's pretty spectacular IMO for a service life.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Winston I'm sorry I forgot the model number. It is a yanmar 2210. Mark I agree that changing over to a gm alternator would be better. I did that on a ford 2n that I had. But my problem right now is time which I'm running low on so I guess I will stick with oem. Lmtc I can't argue with the fact that it lasted a very long time. The delco that I put on my ford went out twice on me in 10 years but one time it was fixed under warranty. I still wonder if a new regulator will put the voltage back to around 14 volts. Lmtc I have never bought from you but I see you on here helping people all the time. Could you give me your number so I can give you a shout. Thanks again you guys for all the help you give. When I first bought my Yanmar I was worried about working on it as I usually fix all of my on things but I don't worry any more because I have learned a lot on this forum. My 2210 is amazingly strong and does everything that I need and my only complaint is it is noisy compared to a 3 cylinder but I really like the thing.
 
#7 ·
Parts catalog online, scroll down the page http://www.lmtcompany.com/parts.html
513-877-3000 Happy to help with parts but please understand we can't give service advice/info due to liability issues. Mark, among others here, knows as much as we do about service anyway.

Properly functioning system, good alternator and VR, CLEAN posts/terminals, GOOD cables, good battery, should give mid 14s.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Update--- I installed a new regulator and it fix my problem. My alternator does not overcharge the battery anymore and my voltage no longer goes up to 17 volts at 2000 rpm's. Also wanted to put in a good word for lmtc. I received my part from Ohio to Louisiana in 2 days.
 
#11 ·
mark777 said:
The expense incurred replacing the voltage regulator/limiter, rebuild-replace magneto and everything else associated with the original electrical charging system is, most often, more than converting to the GM alternator...which has it's own built in VR (diodes). Very durable and the swap isn't too difficult, provides double the output and allows for the use of additional add on equipment (work lights front and rear, radio, etc.)
Click to expand...
Mark,
I haven't diagnosed the exact problem yet, but my 1601d is not charging its battery anymore. Before taking the plunge with new parts I will make sure I don't have some corrosion in the wiring somewhere (posts & terminal connections were thoroughly cleaned a month ago).

Disclaimer out of the way, can you tell me more about the GM alternator upgrade? My factory alternator is very narrow.. maybe 3 inches wide (from front to back). There is a radiator hose behind the factory alternator. Is there a 3-wire GM alternator that is a direct bolt-in (in terms of physical dimensions)?

Second, you mentioned having to replace the VR, rebuild the magneto and "everything else associated with the original electrical charging system". Why does the magneto need rebuilding? Where is it located on our tractors? What do you mean by "everything else" relating to the charging system? What other components need to be upgraded or rebuilt for this conversion to work properly?
 
#14 ·
I would just use the GM 1 wire if you can. I've done a f20d and fx28d with no modes to the bracked. on a 2020d I had to use some washers to get things lined up. on a 1610d I got a bracket from the auto parts store that worked for me.
 
#20 ·
Hello, QOS -

The pictures in the link to Net Tractor were given to me by someone that actually did the conversion. I have not done the conversion myself although I did promise to do it when the next opportunity appears on one of my Yanmars. It's been 4 or 5 years since my last swap out with OEM Yanmar parts for a electrical charging system failure. And, although I thought the components were a little pricey at that time, I did figure that the original voltage regulator and limiter lasted 30+ years, simple removal and install with the new parts in less than an hour and I'm all set for the next few decades. In terms of a fast, permanent repair and getting your tractor back to work there is no substitute for OEM parts replacement...

I would only recommend the alternator conversion for those that want/need the additional voltage for rear and front work lights (especially for those that work their FEL at dusk or night), power inverters for available 120V AC, 12V outlet (cell phone charger-trouble lights etc.) or a radio.

The GM, 1 wire conversion is the simplest for wiring and offers several different amp output ranges but it does bypass your warning light on the dash. The GM, 3 wire is as above but requires a little more thought in the wiring... but it also provides for direct wiring to your dash warning light. Both will require a longer belt, spacers (or washers) and a longer alternator bracket. There are alternators available with a narrow body and will fit snugly in front of the radiator hose...The second, biggest advantage using the GM alternators (IMHO) is if, or when they fail, it's a simple matter of replacing the internally regulated diodes by splitting the case and removing on set screw per diode, about $6 last time I did one, and they are readily available from any auto parts store.

One does have to be a little careful when selecting the right alternator. Here's a link to one I would not purchase as it would probably work in every application but, it's only 40 amps, and little more than the OEM charging system:

http://www.db-starter-alternator.co...or.com/p-3641-new-alternator-john-deere-tractors-skid-steer-yanmar-and0197.aspx

Mark
 
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