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bought a 318 today

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#41 ·
With respect to all the posts;; Everyone's right; However My opion is to keep it all to gather; or the mower deck in the shop , So when the time to sell comes .(and it will) you have a complete package; Which I have found you can get top Doller for;; Now with all that information and $10.00 you can get a cup of coffee at Starbucks. Life is good,
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Well, I have spark. I replaced the plugs and gapped them. Still just the starter cranking the flywheel with nothing igniting.

It doesn't look like fuel is going through the filter. And I have tried to put starting fluid down the carb, but still nothing.

Do I need to do a compression test? What should I be checking? The service manual gives me this long list of stuff to check:

A ENGINE WILL NOT START OR STARTS HARD
• Test spark plugs: GO TO ‘
• Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
• Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
• Adjust throttle cable: GO TO Æ
• Adjust idle mixture screw: GO TO Ö
• Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Ü
• Check for sheared flywheel key—P218G (316 and 318) and P220G (420): See Engine CTM2.
• Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
• Check ignition system: See Section 240.
• Test compression pressure: GO TO 1@
• Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
• Inspect crankcase breather: See Engine CTM2.
• Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
 
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#43 ·
The first compression test I do is to just pull the plugs and then turn the engine over and put my finger in lightly over the plug hole to see if there is any pressure pushing by my finger, if not then use a flashlight and see if the pistons are moving. If they are then you probably have a valve stuck, but I doubt is would be both pistons. Still sounds electrical related to me. When you are using starter fluid are you getting any indication of ignition (backfire, sputter etc....?)
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
nope, nothing. no backfire, sputter, anything. air blew pretty hard out of the muffler one time, thats about it.

I only tried starter fluid a few times. i think tonight i might try spraying fluid in there while i'm trying to start the engine (instead of spraying, then trying to start).
 
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#45 ·
Well, I'm going to ask then, exactly how you are determinig you have spark?

FWIW, I saw a spark jump on the plug of an engine which didn't seem to have spark. I cleaned the seat on the head, and replaced the plug, and off it went.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
i was just watching it jump from the plug wire to the block, as well as using an inline tester, but going from the plug wire, through the tester, and to the negative terminal of the battery. i can use the inline tester to connect between the plug and wire.

i'll give that a try first thing tonight. given my problems with a good ground on the starter, this could certainly be the problem.
 
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#47 ·
You could have low compression BUT these engines will run with low compression but only until they get hot(from my experience).Be really careful with the starter fluid on small engines,I just use a squirt bottle and spray some gas to start a motor like yours,pull the top of the carb off and see if there is any gas in it,if not pull the line off AFTER the fuel pump,place it in a container, crank the engine over,if no fuel start looking for bad fuel line ( may as well replace all the fuel line) and check the fittings IN the tank.plan on buying the 2 grommets that hold the fittings in the tank.
 
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Discussion starter · #48 ·
used the in-line spark detector, and i am definitely getting spark.

pulled the plug and there is compression, can feel the air pressure coming out.

i know its not the best idea to use starting fluid. but i am using it in moderation. didn't try the fuel pump thing. will have to give that a try tomorrow.

i'm leaning towards a timing problem. i'll check the flywheel key tomorrow.

any other ideas?
 
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Discussion starter · #50 ·
when i pulled the plug, i checked to see it was wet, it wasn't, so i don't think i'm flooding it.

i have a buddy who knows a **** of a lot more about engines than i do. i think i might invite him over this weekend :trink40:

edit: when cranking the engine, should there be air coming out of the muffler?
 
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#51 ·
jakenbake said:
when i pulled the plug, i checked to see it was wet, it wasn't, so i don't think i'm flooding it.

i have a buddy who knows a **** of a lot more about engines than i do. i think i might invite him over this weekend :trink40:

edit: when cranking the engine, should there be air coming out of the muffler?
Click to expand...
Sure, you should get some air coming out. Matter of fact, if you are choking the engine, you should get some gas vapor out with it.

New question. What are you using for starting fluid? How old is your gas?
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
true "starting fluid" (ether). i don't think gas is getting pulled through the filter, as i can't see any flowing. i have to look into why that is.

but i think i should still get SOMETHING with the starting fluid. right?
 
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Discussion starter · #54 ·
HAHA, SUCCESS! kind of. the engine was actually trying to start, and got some white smoke out the carb. when i let off the starter, it backfired. did this twice.

Looks like tomorrow i will DEFINITELY be troubleshooting the fuel pump. Thanks D-Dogg!
 
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#56 ·
What condition are your plug wires in? Mine became hard to start then would start on one cylinder, when checking the engine while it was running and found the problem the hard way! Replaced the wires and now you just touch the key and off she goes! Glad that D-Dogg got you onto the correct path! I didn't think it was a compression issue!

You also might want to pull the gas tank and drain it and check the pickup lines to make sure they're in good shape! I drain any gas back into a gas can with a shop towel lining the funnel to catch any dirt.
 
#58 ·
I went to the local Tractor supply and bought a wire kit for a 4 cylinder tractor, the ones that don't have the ends on them but are included. Very cheap and worked great and I have replacements when those go bad since it had 4 wires!
 
#59 ·
D-Dogg said:
Here you go. You probably did a lot of it already, but it's a good checklist of things to look at upon acquisition of a new tractor. And yes, that battery is trash.

1. Remove gas cap - check vent for obstructions.
2. Remove gas tank and fuel lines.
3. Dump old gas and trash. Rinse tank with clean fuel.
4. Clean trash from fuel tank pickups.
5. Replace fuel lines: from tank to fuel valve; fuel valve to new fuel filter; new fuel filter to fuel pump; fuel pump to carburetor.
6. Remove carburetor bowl, clean out bowl, clean needle and seat.
7. Clean/replace crankcase breather filter.
8. Replace air filter and pre-filter (oiling pre-filter).
9. Change oil and oil filter with 10w30 (switching to 30wt in the summer), leaving room for 2 ounces of Seafoam.
9. Replace or clean, and adjust points and spark plugs.
10. Remove engine tin covers and clean out rats nests, dirt, grime, etc.
11. Perform valve clearance adjustment. Check engine compression.
12. Visually inspect all wiring, cleaning each and every connection - especially grounds.
13. Load test your battery.
14. Grease every grease fitting - there are 3 on the drive shaft alone.
15. Inspect belts, replacing as necessary.
16. Inspect mule drive pulleys.
17. Inspect deck spindles.
18. Replace hydrostatic fluid and filter (using JD Hygard low viscosity of course).
19. Inspect tires for severe cracking. Check and adjust air pressure.
20. Inspect front wheel bearing, replacing as necessary.
21. Adjust brakes. Set parking brake and leave it set through step 27.
22. Add fresh fuel with 1 ounce of Seafoam per gallon.
23. Start engine, allow to warm up at 1/4" throttle for about 4-5 minutes. Stop engine
24. Remove air cleaner cover, and filter cover.
25. Start engine, run up to 3/4 to full throttle, and slowly drip Seafoam into the throat of the carburetor increasing flow until the engine almost chokes out. Switch engine off when it sounds like it is going to choke out anyway.
26. Allow engine to sit for 30 minutes to an hour.
27. Start engine and step back while it smokes heavily for a good 2 minutes or more.
28. Purge the hydraulic system by driving the tractor backward and forward quickly, making a series of sharp left and right turns, raising and lowering the deck or raising/lowering/angling the front blade if you have one.
29. Bring the tractor to a stop on level ground. Observe whether or not the tractor creeps either forward or reverse with the hydrostatic control lever in neutral. Research adjustment appropriate to your serial numbers tractor and perform adjustment.
30. When shutting your tractor down for the day, get in the habit of closing the fuel valve, and lowering the deck/implement.
31. Check oil and hydro fluid before each use.
32. Perform your scheduled maintenance on time.
Click to expand...
Great list, but I would change one thing...replace the spark plug *after* running the seafoam. No reason to have all that carb/intake fouling depositing on the new plug.
 
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jakenbake
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