I have a 12 hp briggs on a 28" snapper mower, the problem is that the engine bogs down when cutting grass (short,dead winter grass at that). I have cleand out the carb and put a new blade which didn't help. I should mention that this mower was given to me because the previous owner couldn't fix this either. model number is 281223bve any ideas?:thanku:
engine problems
bhinton54
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I have a 12 hp briggs on a 28" snapper mower, the problem is that the engine bogs down when cutting grass (short,dead winter grass at that). I have cleand out the carb and put a new blade which didn't help. I should mention that this mower was given to me because the previous owner couldn't fix this either. model number is 281223bve any ideas?:thanku:
Welcome to the forum,the series 23 was built for several years and should have all parts available.there are several posters who are very familiar with the Rear Engine Rider and the engines.First I would go to Snapper.com,and download the manuals available for it(if you weren't lucky enough to get them with the mower).They have an Illustrated Parts List,and an operators Manual for the mower,and an Illustrated Parts list and operators manual for the engine,which shows to be a 21A907-0124-E1. Go to the web site,click "manuals" then enter "281223bve" then click on the manuals one at a time. there are some Service Manuals available for the mower,It's for "series 6 and later" there are some differences with the series 23(yours),but most of the major units are he same.Briggs or some of the parts distributors will have a "service manual" for the engine.As to your problem: check the throttle wire and make sure that it goes all the way "open" then the governor action,the engine only runs as fast as the governor lets it run. then check the fuel flow to the carb,it might not be getting enough gas to run full power.Check for a clogged air cleaner.
Thanks dc! i checked the throttle wire, it goes all they way out until it closed the choke up. also checked and changed air and fuel filters. Both were OK but replaced anyway. Also today I checked the engine compression and it is 90PSI while cranking engine 10 to 15 rev's. Is this enough compression? My first thought that it is, but no sure. Is there anything else to check? Thanks again for the info and help!!
Compression is enough. Hard to get a real test as this engine has a form of compression release. Check the "Static" Governor setting. Loosen clamp holding governor arm to shaft coming out side of engine, push arm to wide open throttle, turn shaft as far clockwise as it will go, (won't be much movement either way) re-tighten clamp.
Walt Conner
Walt Conner
Ditto Walt's governor advice,if the problem still exists,pull the fuel line loose at the carb,there should be a steady stream of fuel. If not maybe the tank exit is blocked, or the tank vent in the cap is blocked,even if you cleaned the carb the main jet could be partially blocked.or the needle and seat area,could have restrictions.Also check that the blade rotates freely,and isn't trying to seize.
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3 things come to mind to me. (That happened to me.) Walt covered one of them. I had one rider where someone had a plate where the chute is. It was full of 5/8" holes. I'm guessing so it couldn't throw rocks and or sticks. But it plugged up so easily that it would bog the mower down because the grass had no where to go. I removed the plate, and it worked great. (The guy I bought it from thought the motor was worn out.) The last thing is, does it actually have a 12 hp engine? Good luck in your venture.
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My old 12 hp Briggs got that way and I tried everything including carb rebuild, new carb throttle shaft and seals, everything was good externally. It would run strong for about 10 minutes and then start bogging down and quitting under load.
The problem was that the valve guides were worn beyond repair. The only fix is to:
a. have new guide pressed in & reamed to size, or
b. buy a new engine
I chose option b.
A quick check is to pull the breather plate off and look at the springs and any wear patterns you see inside there and the inside of the breather plate. Mine was so bad that the spings were wandering off center, rubbing the inside of the plate, and hanging up on it.
The problem was that the valve guides were worn beyond repair. The only fix is to:
a. have new guide pressed in & reamed to size, or
b. buy a new engine
I chose option b.
A quick check is to pull the breather plate off and look at the springs and any wear patterns you see inside there and the inside of the breather plate. Mine was so bad that the spings were wandering off center, rubbing the inside of the plate, and hanging up on it.
Another possible problem,the Briggs overhead valve engines seem to have valve adjustment problems,the adjustment procedure is different from the usual,in that the valves are not adjusted at TDC, but with the piston 1/4 inch down the bore,I don't remember if it's before or after TDC,Walt might send you the procedure,if you PM him and ask. Too little clearance can cause problems when the engine is hot.
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633 Posts
Can you find the missing piece? Glad you found the problem. Good job.
Thanks for reply on the problem,that helps others. I don't have a lot of personal experience with the OHV Briggs,but from what I have read the valve train causes some problems. It's amazing that it started and ran fairly well,until a load was applied.Be sure to adjust the valves properly,these engines are a little deifferent,Walt will send his explanation of the process,you might PM him,if he doesn't see this post.
Update! replaced broken pushrod, found the broken tip of the old pushrod and removed, adjusted valves, and changed oil. Motor runs like a "New" one!! Thanks to all for your help, especially to Walt for the adjustment instructions!
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548 Posts
Congrats on the fix! I swear, the people on this forum must know everything about tractors and lawn mowers! 
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