I am having an issue with a 317 I picked up that needed some putting back together. The previous owner had replaced the drive shaft so the battery tray, the engine shield, and some of the electrical parts (one a circuit breaker?) were pulled from their mounts. I mounted everything where I thought it needed to go, dropped a battery in it to see if it would turn over. When I turned the key (well screwdriver) the amp gauge goes all the way negative. If I turn the front PTO switch on, then turn key, the clutch clicks once hard (engages) and the amp gauge only dips a little bit which seems normal. If I try to start it the breaker kicks out and you can hear it reset in a few seconds. One thing I noticed is the ground wire to the battery has 2 wires. One heavier one that goes to the engine/ground and a smaller wire that I don't know where it goes. Anyone have an idea where I should start? I am not good with electrical problems!
Electrical problem with a 317
shafferl
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Yes. I would check the meter connection to the selonoid first. and disconnect the lighting circut, so the is out of the way , when reconneting the lighting circut back in the system if that may be the case , I don't think it is, in this case I belive the amp meter is on the wrong side of the selonoid.
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I had 2 things that were messed up on mine. The front lights had the wire run up by the lift rods that hold the hood up and got pinched. the other thing was the rear light wire were cut and taped off. When I took the fender pan off the OP had pinched the wires, wich made the amp meter peg out like yours.
The amps meter is attached to the battery side. Battery to breaker to amp meter to the key switch.
Remember when the PTO is engaged, the meter does not peg negative but it does move a little. So I think the meter is OK.
What is best way to disconnect the lighting circuit? Do I need to cut wires?
Remember when the PTO is engaged, the meter does not peg negative but it does move a little. So I think the meter is OK.
What is best way to disconnect the lighting circuit? Do I need to cut wires?
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Find a connection/splice somewhere in the system affected, and unplug, if possible....
OK...looking at the diagram again....when the key is in the on position it says the ACC (lights) is active, the IGN is active (looks like the safety switches??) and the REG (regulator/rectifier) is active. So if the PTO switch in on, that means that IGN circuit is broken correct? But does it mean the other circuits are still made? The ACC and REG? If they are active and the meter does peg negative, does this mean those circuits are OK and that I need to focus on the IGN circuit? I'm thinking this is the PTO switch, the seat switch, the neutral switch, maybe something else?
Tested with the PTO switch on....... the front lights work OK so I can check them off and probably all of the light circuit although the taillights are not working. If there was a short there I would think I would see it on the gauge.
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If the rear lights are not working the wire maybe pinched or the bulbs are burnt out. If the wire is pinched then the meter will peg. As I see it, the meter pegs when you turn the IGG to the ON positin only ?
Its funny that mine didn't have rear lights but the wire was there to hook them up, I just have reflectors.
Its funny that mine didn't have rear lights but the wire was there to hook them up, I just have reflectors.
I'm thinking that they are probably burnt out. The fact that the front lights work (with the PTO switch on) I believe the rear light can't be shorted or I would see it on the gauge.
Yes all this testing is with the key in the ON position. With the key on and the PTO on, no problem. If I then turn the PTO switch off it kicks the breaker.
Yes all this testing is with the key in the ON position. With the key on and the PTO on, no problem. If I then turn the PTO switch off it kicks the breaker.
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I woud guess that maybe the plug on the PTO switch might be pluged in bakwards ,( if that could happen) or the swtch is bad. Jump the seat and safty swithches out and test. and then just disconnet them and test. LOL running out of options here.
If that doesn't work , the last thing is the netural safety switch wire going to the PTO switch, and from the PTO switch to the start selomoid.
If that doesn't work , the last thing is the netural safety switch wire going to the PTO switch, and from the PTO switch to the start selomoid.
So I decided to go back and check the safety circuit. Since that is broken when the PTO is on, and then the short disappears, I figure it must be in that circuit somewhere? I unplugged the seat switch - no difference. I removed the fenders to look at the wires....looky, looky! This is the seat saftey switch wire that is under the seat brace! Now to go remove it.......
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Acctually this is helping me too. My 317 is apart and has some buggers in the wireing and needs the engine put back in. This was a good mental exercise for me when I get started on my project. Great to see you figured it out ! This was kinda fun for me 
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Do you have a phone number I could call you at? I have a 317 I’m having some trouble with on the electrical.Here is the 317's wiring schematic.
![Image]()
Anyone needing further help with schematics or other tech info. please send me a PM :fing32:.
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First welcome to MTF! We don't recommend sharing phone numbers in a public forum, scammers and spammers can pull them with "harvesting" software and then you get on their lists and you really don't want to be. If you use the "@" sign in front of a members sitename it will send them a notice. @BobK hasn't been on since January 2021 so you might not get a response and it would be better to start your own thread for your issue. Here is some site navigation assistance in case you need it, the FAQ's have a ton of info on how to do things on the forum so I recommend you spend a little bit of time in there:
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