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madmantrapper

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Do any of you folks do automotive A/C work. My nissan truck A/C stopped working. It stopped over a period of a week or so, it got warmer and warmer until it quit altogether. It uses the R134A reffrigerant. I have a vaccum pump and a manifold but I don't quite know what I'm doing. How do I find the leak? Is the leak small or large if it took a week or so to stop working? I read somewhere that there is a refrig that has some type of stop leak in it, does it work? Does the system need to be pumped down if you do not break it open to replace something? How do you know if you lost oil?

Any help would be great.

I can't stand paying someone to fix anything. I'm CHEAP!!!!
 
Don't even think about using sealer in any vehicle that you want to keep. Also, check the small cans of 134 if you go that way to make sure they are not labeled "long life" or similar language, they contain sealer. Once sealer is added, repair will require the replacement of all hoses and components in the AC system. It will also not repair a leaking compressor seal, which could be your problem.
 
i was ready to recharge my AC system a few weeks ago and a member here told me to look at the condensor fan. yep, the fan had gone bad! so for 30.00 i got it back going and did not have to fool with a recharge. first check to make sure your compressor is actually running, it could be a fuse popped or bad clutch/compressor. next make sure the condensor fan is working, if it ain't sucking air thru the AC can't cool. last thing is check the charge. if you know someone who has a set of guages, use them. putting too much coolant in is just worse than not having enough. too much coolant can result in liquid in the compressor and this will ruin it in short order.
 
Madmantrapper . I am and have been in the Automotive service/repair business for about 30 years now . Without actually looking at & checking out you truck I cant give you any concrete answers , however if you would like to call me at my place of business I would be willing to talk to you about it . 301.870.9888 Mike .
 
There is a dye you can put in the system, and look at the lines with a UV light to find your leak. Yes, it would have to be sucked down because it has had air in it, which kills the compressor.
 
check your shrader valve to see if you have any presure in the refridgerant in the system,,if not since you have a vacume pump pull a vacume and watch the manifold gauges..that will at least tell you..how bad of a leak you have..good luck on trying to get your a/c fixed..i think i saw 134a at general dollar for $7.00 a can..:trink40:
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
UPDATE: After the recharge it worked fine for a day and a half. I have charged it three times now with the same result. I was advised not to use the sealer stuff by a lot of folks. I am going to try the UV dye stuff to see if I can find the leak. Anyone ever used this? Also how do I put more compresser oil in the system?
 
UPDATE: After the recharge it worked fine for a day and a half. I have charged it three times now with the same result. I was advised not to use the sealer stuff by a lot of folks. I am going to try the UV dye stuff to see if I can find the leak. Anyone ever used this? Also how do I put more compresser oil in the system?
Its not really compressor oil..its freon..look at all the lines and fittings for a oiley spot.
 
UPDATE: After the recharge it worked fine for a day and a half. I have charged it three times now with the same result. I was advised not to use the sealer stuff by a lot of folks. I am going to try the UV dye stuff to see if I can find the leak. Anyone ever used this? Also how do I put more compresser oil in the system?
With deference to the pros on here, I used the leak sealer from NAPA 2 years ago, with good results.

Anyway, if you are going to DIY, you should buy the dye kit, which comes with glasses and a UV flashlight. You will also need to add enough refrigerent to make the compressor stay on. The dye kits work well.

Once you spot your leak, your system should be evacuated before you attempt repair. It is illegal (in VA at least) to vent an AC system directly to the atmosphere.

Once repaired, your system should be thoroughly evacuated before you add any oil or refrigerent. You'll need a good vacuum pump ($100 and up).

Now it is very important to have a good set of manifold gauges. You don't want to overfill. Check the specs for your system - you should have an idea how much refrigerent to use.

Add your oil - you typically turn the can upside down for this step (but follow the directions on the can).

Begin to add your refrigerent. Shake the can well before starting, and rotate between the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions every 5 seconds.

Note the ambient temperature, and match that the the pressure chart which is on the label of many cans of refrigerent. At 90 plus degrees, the low side should be no more than 50-55 psi, and the high side around 250 psi.

As many have noted DO NOT OVERFILL or turn the cans upside down. Overfilling is probably responsible for most severe AC system problems.

Finally, at 100 plus degrees, it's going to be hard to get the car like a refrigerator.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all your help. I am going to buy the pump and gauge set at harbor frieght tomorrow, against my better judgement, I have never bought anything there that was of any quality I don't think. The vac pump is a US General for $80 and the gauge set is $30.
 
Thanks for all your help. I am going to buy the pump and gauge set at harbor frieght tomorrow, against my better judgement, I have never bought anything there that was of any quality I don't think. The vac pump is a US General for $80 and the gauge set is $30.
I bought the Horrible Fright 134A manifold and guage set and it is ok for the 4 vehicles I maintain these days (I have 2 Robinar R-12 sets from my days as an ASE Master Tech).

Since I already have a vacuum pump I just bought the manifold set and tried to find a can tap at HF only to find they did not sell one. OK, I go to my local auto parts store and get a Murray can tap for another $18 (tax included) and go back to charge the A/C only to find out the fitting on the manifold set is different than the fitting on my vac pump. Back to the parts store and a short conversation with "my guy" (the only person in the store that still knows how to read a catalog and will look if it doesn't pop up on the computer screen) got me another adapter fitting to go from my pump to the manifold hose ($12.00).

Check on this stuff before you get around to working on your A/C. I can probably find the tickets and supply you the part numbers if you need them.

Roger
Old, Tired, and Grumpy
 
The dye kit works great. I would inspect your hoses and connections under the UV light before adding the dye so you can note any areas which might give you a false reading. Some motor oil and tranny fluid additives can look like UV dye under the right conditions. Your system may already have dye in it. When I was a tech we added a combination compressor oil/UV dye product to every A/C service.
 
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