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Agricat crawler model-F
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jdcrawler
141 - 160 of 298 Posts
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Understand that thought!
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Someone has tried to pull something with a couple of chain hooks attached to the top edge of the bucket and has bent that edge.
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I've heated up that area and hammered down the two points that were pulled up by the chain hooks.
Then, with a square steel tube set behind, I've placed 6 C-clamps on it to try to pull the front edge back in place.
The pairs of clamps are held together with vice-grips to keep them from rotating when I tighten the screws down.
I tighten each screw a little at a time and keep going around the bucket doing that until the screws won't turn anymore.
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It isn't 100 percent perfect but it sure looks a lot better.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
I've heated up that area and hammered down the two points that were pulled up by the chain hooks.
Then, with a square steel tube set behind, I've placed 6 C-clamps on it to try to pull the front edge back in place.
The pairs of clamps are held together with vice-grips to keep them from rotating when I tighten the screws down.
I tighten each screw a little at a time and keep going around the bucket doing that until the screws won't turn anymore.
It isn't 100 percent perfect but it sure looks a lot better.
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4,107 Posts
Positioning the bucket to where it will be in relation to the crawler.
This allows enough room so the bucket can be tilted all the way back without hitting the crawler.
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The bucket is 10 inches wider on each side then the outside of the tracks so the tracks will always be on cleared ground even when making gradual turns.
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I put a 1 inch diameter hole in a piece of cardboard so it can fit onto the lower mounting pin on the bucket.
Then I cut the back of the cardboard off where it lines up with the end of the upper loader arm.
This is then transferred to the lower loader arm to mark it where it needs to be cut off.
I'll only be using about 16 inches of the lower loader arms.
![Image]()
This allows enough room so the bucket can be tilted all the way back without hitting the crawler.
The bucket is 10 inches wider on each side then the outside of the tracks so the tracks will always be on cleared ground even when making gradual turns.
I put a 1 inch diameter hole in a piece of cardboard so it can fit onto the lower mounting pin on the bucket.
Then I cut the back of the cardboard off where it lines up with the end of the upper loader arm.
This is then transferred to the lower loader arm to mark it where it needs to be cut off.
I'll only be using about 16 inches of the lower loader arms.
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The front section of the loader arm is cut off and it is lined up with the rear section.
This is the outside of the arm and holes have been drilled into it for making pocket welds to a reinforcing steel plate that will be on the inside of the arm.
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The upper part of the arm was much wider at this joint area so I have trimmed it back to line up with the surface of the front part of the arm.
The top edge section and two triangular pieces were cut out.
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I'm lining the two pieces up for welding.
The two pieces are about 3/8 different in thickness.
With the surfaces on the the outside of the arm lined up flush with each other, there is a step between the surfaces on the inside of the arm.
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I have cut out this piece out of 1/8 inch thick steel plate.
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This fits into the gap between the two pieces. Half of it fitting inside the upper arm and the rest fitting on the outside of the lower arm and they are welded together.
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This is a view of that plate welded on the inside.
You can see the edge of the reinforcing plate that is welded inside the other side of the arm.
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This is the outside surface with the welds all ground down.
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The cap is welded back onto the top edge and the arm is primed.
This is the inside surface.
I decided to leave the pocket welds showing on this side.
![Image]()
This is the outside.
![Image]()
This is the outside of the arm and holes have been drilled into it for making pocket welds to a reinforcing steel plate that will be on the inside of the arm.
The upper part of the arm was much wider at this joint area so I have trimmed it back to line up with the surface of the front part of the arm.
The top edge section and two triangular pieces were cut out.
I'm lining the two pieces up for welding.
The two pieces are about 3/8 different in thickness.
With the surfaces on the the outside of the arm lined up flush with each other, there is a step between the surfaces on the inside of the arm.
I have cut out this piece out of 1/8 inch thick steel plate.
This fits into the gap between the two pieces. Half of it fitting inside the upper arm and the rest fitting on the outside of the lower arm and they are welded together.
This is a view of that plate welded on the inside.
You can see the edge of the reinforcing plate that is welded inside the other side of the arm.
This is the outside surface with the welds all ground down.
The cap is welded back onto the top edge and the arm is primed.
This is the inside surface.
I decided to leave the pocket welds showing on this side.
This is the outside.
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4,107 Posts
The lift arms are attached to the crawler and the bucket is attached to it.
Here I'm checking to see how far back I want the bucket to tilt and marking it on the inside of the loader arms.
This is so I know where I can put in the support cross tube so it won't be in the way of tilting the bucket back.
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The cross tube is welded in place.
It is 3 inch diameter with 1/4 inch wall thickness.
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Here's how it looks so far.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Here I'm checking to see how far back I want the bucket to tilt and marking it on the inside of the loader arms.
This is so I know where I can put in the support cross tube so it won't be in the way of tilting the bucket back.
The cross tube is welded in place.
It is 3 inch diameter with 1/4 inch wall thickness.
Here's how it looks so far.
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1,068 Posts
We used to make up a piece of heavy duty, usually 3/8 thick x 3' x 3', angle iron, or even bigger, especially on loaders, depending on the machine, and it's size, for safety braces, that would rest, on top of the cylinder rod, when we would raise a bucket up into the air, for work to be done. Most of the TLB's, on the market today have a safety brace, usually painted, "SAFETY RED", and attached to the left side of the machine, fastened and secured to the lift arm, in some cases. Otherwise they can and usually get discarded, by unknowns. Even though, it's not something that gets used everyday, but once used, it becomes a good practicing safety habit. She's coming along nicely, and I'm really enjoying the thread. The front bucket is so very handy, just the way it's designed,with it's smooth cutting edge, as a bolt on toothed accessory cutting blade can be attached if needed for dirt or hard surfaces, and such, and I don't worry about the curl, or the chance of anything getting in the way, as I know that you're already several steps ahead with these things, in you're mind, as you've proven with your skills, and engineering, practicality, and design work, that you're an advanced individual with more talent than most! IMO! We have to realize this is a small handy track type loader, to move light to medium material, wet or dry, and the bucket gets loaded accordingly. You'll know soon enough when you bless her with her maiden voyage if an extra, material shield is needed on top of the bucket, to prevent, material, being flopped over the top of the bucket, onto the cylinders, and into the front of the machine. It's usually the larger loaders, that require this, as the torque volume is greater with higher RPM's and really slamming on the curl lever control, in an aggressive way. I'm guessing that it wont be needed, unless volume would be desired, if light loose leaves are being hauled. Keep up the great work! 
ETU
ETU
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4,107 Posts
Using the hydraulic cylinder mounts that I cut off the ends of the upper lift arms.
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I took a piece of 2x3 inch rectangular boxed steel and cut it in half to form two square U-channel pieces.
The two mounting brackets fit on the inside of the channel piece and I've started welding them in place.
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Here are the finished cylinder mounts.
I still have to grind the ends down where the square corners of the channel piece sticks up past the rounded edge of the brackets.
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Figuring out what length and shape the brackets need to be so that the bucket can swing well over center.
The measuring tape is where the hydraulic cylinder will fasten in place.
This is with the cylinder fully retracted.
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viewed from the inside.
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With the cylinder fully extended out.
![Image]()
![Image]()
I took a piece of 2x3 inch rectangular boxed steel and cut it in half to form two square U-channel pieces.
The two mounting brackets fit on the inside of the channel piece and I've started welding them in place.
Here are the finished cylinder mounts.
I still have to grind the ends down where the square corners of the channel piece sticks up past the rounded edge of the brackets.
Figuring out what length and shape the brackets need to be so that the bucket can swing well over center.
The measuring tape is where the hydraulic cylinder will fasten in place.
This is with the cylinder fully retracted.
viewed from the inside.
With the cylinder fully extended out.
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4,107 Posts
The hub on the front of the engine has a double groove V-belt pulley machined onto it.
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I took the hub off, shortened it and machined it out to accept a Lovejoy coupler.
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The modified hub is bolted back onto the engine.
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And the screen is fastened back on.
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I'm using 1/4 inch thick steel plate to make the mount for the hydraulic pump.
Here I'm bending it to shape.
![Image]()
This bolts onto the front of the crawler frame to hold the pump in place.
This is the inlet side.
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And this is the outlet side.
![Image]()
I took the hub off, shortened it and machined it out to accept a Lovejoy coupler.
The modified hub is bolted back onto the engine.
And the screen is fastened back on.
I'm using 1/4 inch thick steel plate to make the mount for the hydraulic pump.
Here I'm bending it to shape.
This bolts onto the front of the crawler frame to hold the pump in place.
This is the inlet side.
And this is the outlet side.
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4,107 Posts
A holesaw.
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4,107 Posts
Lining up to fit the rear drawbar under the crawler.
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This is the scarfer that will bolt onto the rear drawbar.
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The front of the drawbar is fastened to two brackets under the center of the crawler.
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With the drawbar in place, I decided that I should change the drive sprocket before I mount that scarfer.
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With the sprocket hub clamped up on the lathe, I'm using a hole saw to cut the sprocket off.
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The original sprocket has 18 teeth.
I have a 10 tooth sprocket, which is close to half the size of the original but the bore in it is only 1-1/8 inch diameter.
The shaft on the drive is 1 inch diameter so that would only leave 1/16 wall thickness on the sprocket hub so obviously, that isn't going to work.
The smallest sprocket that I can safely go down to is a 12 tooth sprocket.
It has a 1-1/2 inch bore so the hub will have 1/4 inch wall thickness.
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The hub is turned down so the sprocket is a light press fit.
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The sprocket is welded to the hub on both sides.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The welds are turned down just enough to clear the edge of the chain.
The sprocket is painted and mounted back on the drive shaft.
![Image]()
This is the scarfer that will bolt onto the rear drawbar.
The front of the drawbar is fastened to two brackets under the center of the crawler.
With the drawbar in place, I decided that I should change the drive sprocket before I mount that scarfer.
With the sprocket hub clamped up on the lathe, I'm using a hole saw to cut the sprocket off.
The original sprocket has 18 teeth.
I have a 10 tooth sprocket, which is close to half the size of the original but the bore in it is only 1-1/8 inch diameter.
The shaft on the drive is 1 inch diameter so that would only leave 1/16 wall thickness on the sprocket hub so obviously, that isn't going to work.
The smallest sprocket that I can safely go down to is a 12 tooth sprocket.
It has a 1-1/2 inch bore so the hub will have 1/4 inch wall thickness.
The hub is turned down so the sprocket is a light press fit.
The sprocket is welded to the hub on both sides.
The welds are turned down just enough to clear the edge of the chain.
The sprocket is painted and mounted back on the drive shaft.
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4,107 Posts
Changing the drive sprocket worked out well.
To tension the chain, I only had to put a washer under each of the four corners of the mounting bracket for the right angle drive.
![Image]()
I'm going to have to brake off this for awhile.
My son has a 1968 Firebird 400 and he wants to raise the center of the hood up two inches so I'm going to work on that for him.
To tension the chain, I only had to put a washer under each of the four corners of the mounting bracket for the right angle drive.
I'm going to have to brake off this for awhile.
My son has a 1968 Firebird 400 and he wants to raise the center of the hood up two inches so I'm going to work on that for him.
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A picture of that 68 Firebird 400 would be great! My Brother in Law had a 67 Firebird 400, that he would take me in, when I was a kid. Man does that bring back memories!
ETU
ETU
I hope you have a thread for that Firebird project!
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4,107 Posts
This is one of the original mounting brackets for the hydraulic cylinders on the Agricat crawler.
![Image]()
These brackets were mounted on the front and the back and they stood straight up from the crawler frame.
![Image]()
That worked fine on the original crawler because the seat was mounted further forward than what my seat is so I have had to cut the bracket and make it so it angles back to clear the seat.
![Image]()
View from behind.
![Image]()
Holes are drilled thru the loader arms and a piece of 1-1/2 inch diameter tube with 1/4 inch wall thickness is slid thru the holes and welded in place.
![Image]()
These are the two side linkage brackets.
Here I'm making sure that the length of the front linkage arm is going to be correct so the bucket will rotate about 160 degrees.
![Image]()
The pins for the two side brackets are assembled and they are each welded to the side bracket on the outside.
This keeps everything square and makes sure that the pins are rotating inside the pivot mounts.
![Image]()
The inside side bracket is held in place by a cotter pin.
![Image]()
The two front linkage arms are each made up out of two pieces of the 1-1/2 inch tube and a piece of 1 inch solid bar.
![Image]()
Here is how it looks when all assembled.
There are 9 grease fittings on each side of the loader arms.
![Image]()
These brackets were mounted on the front and the back and they stood straight up from the crawler frame.
That worked fine on the original crawler because the seat was mounted further forward than what my seat is so I have had to cut the bracket and make it so it angles back to clear the seat.
View from behind.
Holes are drilled thru the loader arms and a piece of 1-1/2 inch diameter tube with 1/4 inch wall thickness is slid thru the holes and welded in place.
These are the two side linkage brackets.
Here I'm making sure that the length of the front linkage arm is going to be correct so the bucket will rotate about 160 degrees.
The pins for the two side brackets are assembled and they are each welded to the side bracket on the outside.
This keeps everything square and makes sure that the pins are rotating inside the pivot mounts.
The inside side bracket is held in place by a cotter pin.
The two front linkage arms are each made up out of two pieces of the 1-1/2 inch tube and a piece of 1 inch solid bar.
Here is how it looks when all assembled.
There are 9 grease fittings on each side of the loader arms.
Joined
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1,068 Posts
You're engineering mind, and the way you explain, and do things, is so enjoyable and to keep us abreast of the progress and with outstanding pictures and explanations documenting your work, is just such a positive thread that I can't wait for you to post some of you're next moves! IMHO!!!
I take note of the planned position of the grease fittings and on the lower fitting as it's being protected by a short stub of round pipe stock, as it will not only protect the fitting from being snapped off, but also allows for the end of the grease gun's nozzle to fit into the I.D. of the pipe and allow for regular greasing to push dirt and debris, and water causing rust out! Many of today's manufacturers skip that and don't have a grease fitting down there as they want the customer to purchase a new pin, and in many cases causes a lot of heating and re working to fix an unwanted problem down the road!
ETU
I take note of the planned position of the grease fittings and on the lower fitting as it's being protected by a short stub of round pipe stock, as it will not only protect the fitting from being snapped off, but also allows for the end of the grease gun's nozzle to fit into the I.D. of the pipe and allow for regular greasing to push dirt and debris, and water causing rust out! Many of today's manufacturers skip that and don't have a grease fitting down there as they want the customer to purchase a new pin, and in many cases causes a lot of heating and re working to fix an unwanted problem down the road!
ETU
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19,831 Posts
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Like old timey equipment was made......
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