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Is this cylinder junk?

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#2 ·
Worked in a Heavy Equipment shop years ago and we would see this problem periodically. We had a 100 ton press that we could and would bend and straighten and press stuff all the time. We even tackled a few as bad as yours. Remember that the rod is extremely hardened. So as you can understand the Harder it is the more temperamental and brittle it can be when trying to straighten it out! So much so that it could snap upon straightening. My opinion is to find a replacement, if possible, and scrap that one! IMO!

ETU
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I'll fix it.
Getting a new cylinder and fitting it also takes time.
I straightened the rod; I was aiming for 0.2mm runout, I managed to get it down to 0.4mm, about 0.016"
That took about 2 hours.

I started the gland nut, but that's taking extra time because I didn't have an appropriate diameter rod, I had to cut a thick piece down to size.
Wasteful and time consuming; but the fuel and time it would require to get better size rod would cost more.

The rod doesn't seem to be very hard, it only needed 6 tons or so to bend it.
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#7 ·
I wasn't aware of your capabilities or knowledge on the subject at hand. That's okay as I can handle being set up!,:ROFLMAO:(unlike some I have tough skin)!:LOL:

Nice job!

I wanted to ask, how did this happen to begin with? What measures will you take to possibly prevent this from happening again?

ETU
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure to be honest; I think it was while I was trying to pull a small accacia tree out of some brush, I thing the weight of it was on the cylinder rod when I thought I had it on the bucket.

In any case, I know who the culprit is; no one else used my tractor.

I finally pulled the tree out with a chain. Now it's ash.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
It took longer than expected to make the new gland insert and lock ring.
Then I made an error on the internal groove for the seal, spoiled the seal, and couldn't get another the same.
So I bought a seal with a wider, deeper profile and recut the groove again.

Internal grooves are tricky for an amatuer like me. It has to be done by brail.

I also made another groove and a nylon slide ring for it.

After assembly, I tested the cylinder with some heavy earth moving work that brought it to full 240 bar (3,500 psi) pressure many times; and all looks ok.

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#11 ·
Nice work!!
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
3/4-wrench said:
How is the gland assembled into the cylinder , I dont see an external or pin spanner ?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure about the terminology;
The gland part slides into the top of the cylinder, then a C shaped wire lock spring fits into a groove above it, then the gland pulls out slightly and squeezes the wire between it and the cylinder groove, preventing it from sliding out again. Then the ring nut pulls the gland outward against the wire so it doesn't flop in and out during use.
The original ring nut had notches for a ring wrench. I could have reproduced that as I have a milling machine, but I didn't bother and just made it round. I tightened it with a pipe wrench.

The trick with getting the part out is that first it has to be pushed in; then you can see the lock wire in there.
 
#13 ·
Mark in Portugal said:
I'm not sure about the terminology;
The gland part slides into the top of the cylinder, then a C shaped wire lock spring fits into a groove above it, then the gland pulls out slightly and squeezes the wire between it and the cylinder groove, preventing it from sliding out again. Then the ring nut pulls the gland outward against the wire so it doesn't flop in and out during use.
The original ring nut had notches for a ring wrench. I could have reproduced that as I have a milling machine, but I didn't bother and just made it round. I tightened it with a pipe wrench.

The trick with getting the part out is that first it has to be pushed in; then you can see the lock wire in there.
Click to expand...
I got ya , I saw the threads and though the cylinder was threaded .
Nice job
 
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3/4-wrench
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