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Discussion starter · #21 ·
hi guys well i bough a 10 gpm pump and a 16 hp chonda engine i have 2 weeks holidays and i hope to get the tractor running finally.I also want to start on the fel i was wondering whether it would work if instead of two loader arms i only have one in the middle as i don't have enough box tube to build a twin loader arm but i do have a long piece of small I beam that i could mount in the middle and use two lift rams and one dump ram would this work. i would be like this cad plans loader but with two lift rams. thanks Andre

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Over the weekend i started her up with the new pump and engine and low and behold it worked. Although it didn't steer i later found that the valve i used for steering didn't work so i connected the steering ram to my drive valve (two spool) it it worked although a little fast. Then the drive motor slipped on the drive coupling that was fixed by filing a key way in it.Then when i when to test it again it just wouldn't work i opened the tank and the oil was just froth so i am going to add a tube to the bottom of the tank and more oil. thanks guys.
 

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hi guys well i bough a 10 gpm pump and a 16 hp chonda engine i have 2 weeks holidays and i hope to get the tractor running finally.I also want to start on the fel i was wondering whether it would work if instead of two loader arms i only have one in the middle as i don't have enough box tube to build a twin loader arm but i do have a long piece of small I beam that i could mount in the middle and use two lift rams and one dump ram would this work. i would be like this cad plans loader but with two lift rams. thanks Andre

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I think you will have trouble with the one arm loader bending, the problem being when you are exerting more force one one side than the other. Even if you think you are going in straight you could hit a root or rock and twist the hole thing up. Looks great otherwise, looking forward to the rest of the build. Ed
 
I think you will have trouble with the one arm loader bending, the problem being when you are exerting more force one one side than the other. Even if you think you are going in straight you could hit a root or rock and twist the hole thing up. Looks great otherwise, looking forward to the rest of the build. Ed

We have a loader similar to that (minus the hydraulics) and never had a problem bending the arm. I actually damaged the bucket, but that was more due to rust then manufacturing defect. If I were to build it, the 3rd attachement in the 3pt hitch would go directly to the tractor (as ours was built).

This video shows a loader that is very similar to the one we have: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcCPSUCWe6M .
He appears to have an aftermarket bucket, as we the end of the forks on ours are actually part of the bucket (much more solid).
 
Hi Bobcat Fan
Your loader is looking good. I see that you have a hydraulic pump mounted to the motor and what dose the pump pressure run to????? You must have a hydraulic motor that will drive the rearends. But what did you use to make the loader go forward and backward?
Keep up the work.
Mark
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
okay the pump drives the two spool control valve which operates both steering and drive. this will be upgraded two two single valves operaterd by footpeddles when i find the bits.

the drive currently is a hydraulic motor directly coupled to the diff but when i start the machine on grass the engine will stall as the hydraulic motor needs to much power to turn the diff so u have to rock it to make it go but the engine is fine when it starts rolling. so my question is if i put a gear box or chain drive the diff will the increased torque stop the engine stalling on take off. thanks Andre
 
okay the pump drives the two spool control valve which operates both steering and drive. this will be upgraded two two single valves operaterd by footpeddles when i find the bits.

the drive currently is a hydraulic motor directly coupled to the diff but when i start the machine on grass the engine will stall as the hydraulic motor needs to much power to turn the diff so u have to rock it to make it go but the engine is fine when it starts rolling. so my question is if i put a gear box or chain drive the diff will the increased torque stop the engine stalling on take off. thanks Andre
Andre
When you rocked the loader and got it moving how fast did it move over the ground? Real fast or real slow? If you hook it up to a gear box like I did, my gear ratio is 7 to 1. That gave me lots of pulling power and slower high speed. That is what I was looking for.
Maybe someone on the list can help to.
Thanks Mark
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Well I don't know exactly how fast it went but it was very fast but it was lacking power but had speed so i am thinking of making a chain drive gear box with a 4:1 reduction to increase pulling power and torque. thanks andre
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
hi guys more problems with the hydraulic side of things i have a circuit of three valves on the tractor. the pump flow goes to an adjustable flow divider were the control flow goes to a motor valve and the excess goes to a tee fitting which supplies both the steering and loader valves but the steering valve wont work when the tee is plumbed in.when the excess flow from the divider goes into the steering valve it works until the fluid get warm then works in fits and stops.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
hi guys a bit of an update i decided that the tractor was to big for my need so tractor mk 5 has begun i am making a single tube frame like a cadtrac and am narrowing the axles down the frame is made from 4x4x1/4 tubing. i have already finished the articulation joint and one i figure out how to shorten axles i will transfer all the components over with out the need to drain the tank of oil. photos coming next week
 
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