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jdcrawler

· Lindeman crawler fan
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4,107 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
The Bolens hydro transmission is mounted and the chain tension is adjusted and then I mounted the fender on.

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Using blocks of wood, I set the engine up where it needs to be.

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The side rails for the engine mounts are made out of angle iron and the back ends of them bolt to brackets that are welded to the fender.
The fender is made out of 3/16 plate steel so it is strong enough to use for structural support.
There is a support bar welded under the engine from one frame rail to the other frame rail.

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Four vertical steel tubes are then welded in to support the engine mounting rails.

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One half of a flex coupling is welded to the front of the fan hub on the front of the transmission.

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I made up a drive shaft with the other flex coupling end and the V-belt pulley.
The pillow block bearing will support the front of the drive shaft.

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This steel plate holds the support bearing and has slotted mounting holes so it can be adjusted as the transmission is adjusted.

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I found a 3/8 inch V-belt that fits good enough so I can use it to set up the rest of the drive.
I'll use 1/2 inch industrial "green" belt to drive the tractor.

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The belt tension pulley is mounted to one engine mounting frame.
The tension spring and adjusting bolt is mounted to the other engine mounting frame.

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I am intending to make sheet metal side and front panels that will go on the framework under the engine.
That way the transmission and drive components under the engine will be covered.
The engine will be sitting on a metal "box" and I think it will look a lot better than having everything under there exposed.

Here is a side view so you can get an idea of how it will look.

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you are one fast worker! i'm always impressed with the speed at which you post updates to your projects, which are always done very well with attention to detail, quality, and craftsmanship. keep up the good work! i can't wait to see more.

tmm
 
Thats amazing, i would have been trying to tie the motor down on the front of the lower frame, not above the hydro on its own rails.
 
Nice mods jdcrawler - your weld quality & creativity stand's out...

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
i would have been trying to tie the motor down on the front of the lower frame, not above the hydro on its own rails.
I had thought of that when I first started thinking about building this but I wanted to keep the overall length ( and looks ) close to what it was originally.
The engine is sitting higher than original but it isn't sitting any farther forward.

Bolens made a "dump cart" that fit on the toolbar and extended back between the rear wheels.
Here is side view of a Ridemaster with the dump cart for comparison to mine.

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I see, it does look good that way. Now it looks like the gas tank needs to be a little higher for gravity feed to work.
 
Hi Ray
I do like to see your work, looks great. I am using the same #11 Eaton transmission on my tractor that I built. What is the RPMs that you are going to run yours at. I am turning the input at 3400 RPM's. I need to replace the charge pump on the front. I have had no luck finding one. Can you help.
Looks great
Mark
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Hi Ray, I am using the same #11 Eaton transmission on my tractor that I built. What is the RPMs that you are going to run yours at. I am turning the input at 3400 RPM's. I need to replace the charge pump on the front. I have had no luck finding one. Can you help.
Looks great
Mark
Sorry Mark.
I got my hydro unit off ebay.
The trans is connected at a 1-1 ratio with the engine but I don't know what the engine's RPM rating is.

Question .. that front pump is just to supply hydraulic pressure for attachments, isn't it ?
The transmission will still work without it ?

The reason I ask is, my Toro Groundsmaster has a hydrostatic transmission with a front pump like this.
The transmission itself looks totally different from this one though. It looks like a square box and is about the same size as this transmission.

The front pump quit working on it so the hydraulic cylinders to raise the mower deck stopped working.
The transmission itself was still working fine.
I disconnected the line going to the hydraulic valve and the return line going to the reservoir.
Then I just hooked a line between the outlet on the pump and the reservoir.
I figured that this would at least keep the pump insides lubricated.

I mounted a separate, belt driven pump on the engine to power the hydraulic cylinders on the mower deck.
It has been working this way for about 4 years now so I'm assuming that this style transmission would work the same way ?
 
Ray
I was thinking that the charge pump keeps the trans. unit supplied with oil + you can run other things like a cylinder. On my tractor the trans. sounds like it is cavitating all the time, this is why I am thinking that the charge pump is bad. I could be wrong. I only use the charge pump to feed oil to the trans.
Thanks Ray
Mark
 
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