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Finally bought an old GT and hoping I did well, and picked up at least some good pointers from you all!

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mitchc

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
After a few months of combing the classifieds for a suitable GT I took the plunge, despite not making the time to investigate this particular machine and digging deeper...
So I guess I'll find out how well I was paying attention to the hours worth of reading here on several of the brand specific forums before going forward with a purchase. Hopefully I wasn't too Hasty!

I Picked up a used but not abused (hopefully!) '96 Craftsman Garden Tractor w/ 46" deck and 20.5 hp Kohler OHV Twin ( # 917.251641) that was owned by a responsible guy that understands that there is a responsibility to maintain them occasionally if you expect them to be around after a number of years. The PO also told me that it was always serviced by a local guy that has a small engine repair shop just a few miles from his property and highly recommended him, (which is the same story another nearby owner of an 80's era John Deere 300 that I looked at told me a few weeks prior!).
So although I still don't even know which transaxle it has, I know that this PO has had the thing periodically serviced and gave me a list of other things (new carb, spindles, blades & tires, etc.) that he's had repaired by the mechanic.

So, I'm ready to pay any toll and accept my Grades for not digging deeper before pulling the lever and completing the deal for this old $700 GT! - So Let 'er rip folks! Recommendations please!

I'm at this point I'm planning to look for an a new seat, a trailer and an hour meter to install, in addition to just cleaning it up a bit more.

Thanks in advance - Mitchc
 
#2 ·
mitchc,

Time will tell if your purchase has credit.

The best learning curve is to fixing any issues that arise, nothing like mowing along and it just quits!

A few more posts and you will be able to post some pictures of your new to you Craftsman GT.

CCMoe
 
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#9 ·
I think you got yourself a winner.


In that model number GT, the transaxle should be Hydro-Gear Transaxle model 218-3010
Might still be a sticker on the bottom of the transaxle. Will be model number 150073 on the sticker.


Fluid level plug is located just above the disc brake. Needs a 1/4" hex (Allen) wrench to remove. Standard righty tighty threads. May need a cheater pipe on the wrench to break it loose. Make sure the hex hole is cleaned out and the wrench is not worn on the corners, and in the hole as far as it will go.
With plug removed, and tractor on a level surface, should be oil at the bottom edge of the hole.
Has a breather hose on the rear you can use to add oil. Just pull the breather valve off the hose.

There is a lot of information on this forum about that transaxle.

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks to y'all, but the honeymoon appears to have ended, or at least delayed.
I got the thing home and unloaded from my utility trailer, and decided to take it up into my garage for a onceover and fluid check. I also decided to walk the slope I'll be mowing and do a second round of picking up the rocks and downed wood from all of my trees
to avoid thrashing the new blades the PO had installed. This is approx. an acre and I spent several hours cleaning it up, and realized that the weeds are so dry and it was around 80 deg so I decided against mowing in those conditions and risk of fire which is quite a real issue recently just about anywhere!
Back to the garage, where I first decided to put some fuel in the tank since the gauge on the tank cap is completely opaque from sun I suppose, filled it up to close to the bottom of the fill tube and started looking things over and I found what appears to be the right front wheel working it's way off the end of the Stub Axle! After a short while and before even checking the oil level! Then adding insult to injury I noticed a gas odor, and saw the tank was weeping from the left rear corner, dripping down onto the rear Hitch Panel and garage floor!
Suddenly I'm thinking the SOB I bought the thing from might have pulled a fast one on me - the last thing I asked him was "how much gas is in it? and he replied that he "didn't know." I'm now trying to reconcile my thoughts based on these sudden findings, his statements throughout the transaction about the GT that gave me the impression that he was pleasant, straight forward and honest seller, etc.

I'm hoping the Tank is shared with other Craftsman MTD or other brands and I'll be able to find a replacement without spending $197.00!
I've got to start by finding a parts manual and/ or service manual on the web. then go from there.
Here's a few Pic's
Image


Image

Image

Any tips on these issues and the resources I'm going to need are welcome,
As Always - Thanks in advance
Mitch
 
#12 ·
Pics came out fine...the front wheel is probably just missing a "C" type of clip.....look at the other side...take that one off and bring it to a good hardware store and buy a new one...grease it before re installing.....there are fuel tank repair kits availabe...I think you still did ok with the purchase....good luck with it
 
#16 ·
I repair just about anything I can, but on a fuel cell that's already probably brittle, I'd pop for a new one. You also have to think in terms of the long-run and what part availability might be. Don't get too down, any of these old machines have quite a few issues that even us tractor lovers put off and work around until we finally fix them. I put used tractors in the same class as used cars, somebody got rid of them for a reason. Once you get through the rash of issues, you'll have a keeper!
 
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#17 ·
Fuel tank is #15 in the drawing.
That model has a L fitting on the bottom of the fuel tank. # 27.
Bushing/gasket #26, goes bad where the L fitting pushes up into the fuel tank. And they start to leak as you describe.

The gasket is a common part in many different brands. Craftsman P/N is 3645J. Cost is $3.00 or $4.00.
Any tractor / engine repair shops near you? They will have them in stock. They go bad often.

Other end of the L is attached to the fuel line running down to the pump.
L fitting is plastic. If you break it the P/N is 139277, about $10.00

Have to take the seat, and seat bracket off, then the fender pan. I think after the seat is off, only 6 bolts to take the fender pan off. Plastic where the hydro lever goes through the fender pan has to be removed. 4 small bolts under it to get it off.
Has a strap over the tank, one bolt on each side.
Drain the fuel tank, then lift it off.

Pull the L fitting and old gasket out of the tank. Put the new gasket in place in the bottom of the tank.
Then push the L fitting though it and into place. Light coat of Vaseline helps.
Buy new fuel line and replace the old stuff at the same time. Worth it in the long run.


Image
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
Agreed on buying a new on vs repairing the old one, just dropped $80 for a new one but of course it won't be here until I'm up in Vancouver for the fourth.
Question- I haven't spent much time peering under the formed pan to find mounting points, how does the tank get replaced?
I also pulled the split grease cover off of the front wheel, and found the "E" ring/ clip sticking to the grease. I guess it needs replaced since I was able to easily slip the clip back on and felt no "clip" once in the bottom of it's groove...


Cheers, MC
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thought I refreshed the page before my last post, I guess I got ahead of myself!
JP - thanx for the input, the parts page and some background on the tank output fitting. I'm 95% sure the leak is coming from the Clamshell seam on the back of the tank (My pic of the left rear corner) and I cant see how the 90 would seep and the noticeable drip could be seen from the left rear corner. I've decided to try to recreate the condition tomorrow when I can move the mower out of my garage before I catch **** from my better half. I lifted the left rear tire and put a 2x4 under it and the leaking stopped so I might just lower it and raise the right rear tomorrow for grins and take another look. I did notice the relatively few bolts that fasten the fender pan but will leave things alone for a bit, or before ordering any more parts until I'm sure.
I might as well ask now - the Gas cap/ Gas gauge is completely opaque from time, sunlight and fuel deposits I suppose, does the entire thing need replacing or is there a lens that can be replaced (or wet sanded polished out) be able to monitor the fuel inventory in the future Filled with the $6.25 p/gallon, ethanol based crap we have here in Kalifornia!
I have the same problem with the (guessing here) volt meter on the dash, its almost solid yellow now after 26 years!
 
#20 ·
Ahhh, this is dear to my heart. I just sold a 1996 Craftsman GT almost identical to yours that I owned since 2005. Mine was a 917.251492 and has the 18.5 HP Kohler magnum engine. I am surprised that the manual for yours is not on the searspartsdirect website. The manual for my model is still there, download it when you get a chance. I compared the two parts pictures with the ones in my manual and they are identical (minus the engine). Craftsman 917251492 front-engine lawn tractor manual (you need to set up a login on this website)
Mine also had the muffler across the front, not on the right side like yours. Anyway I think they are solid machines. Idk about the price though, I sold mine back in March for $400 and I had gone over a few things on it. I regretted selling it but I had no room to keep it. (I traded up to a 2011 GT6000, the one that cracks its frame but that's another posting)
 
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